Expeditions changes — 2023-12-04 release (page 17)

Changed EVER80401 (1980) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… this morning. Shrestha, Tourism - 14 Jan 80 Takenaka's body brought to C2 yesterday; today try … bring body to BC. Cremate at Dugla below ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche on 16th. Today at BC -20 degrees centigrade and windy. Shrestha, Tourism - 13 Jan 81 Yesterday 10:00 …

Changed EVER82302 (1982) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… they could do was count the returning men. Cans had gotten blase about Icefall's fine condition … late. No effective leadership: March had gone to ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche with Sherpa's body for cremation and Gallagher was up at C1. By 2 Sept accident, Cans had all loads …

Changed EVER82402 (1982) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… Face. No search for bodies in later season. Today working near ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche at 4800-4900m stone pile with stone plaque by … as other memorials to Everest climbers who died. Sasaki reached 7500m during expedition. Sharma, Tourism - …

Changed EVER83402 (1983) — N Face (Hornbein Couloir) 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	BC at Rongbuk C1 at Central Rongbuk Glacier. Yasuhira Saito ~~(Gaurishanker)~~(Gaurishankar) - 4 Aug 1984 Saito was member of expedition. Climb abandoned at …

Changed EVER84102 (1984) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… and were the 4 summiters of 23 May. 1 Sherpa killed by avalanche in Icefall from … man was at BC and he descending to ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche alone. Avalanche ice blocks of 15/16 May midnight buried …

Changed EVER84302 (1984) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… where route steepens above Col at about noon. 26 Oct same 2 Sherpas plus a 3rd … total of over a week at C2. Summited ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche East with policewomen several times. Kele, Czech Everest - 3 Nov 84 Last … who had been buried at BC in 1981. Meanwhile Thapa and team members helped to rescue … Akia Kanazawa from Pheriche and Namacho (were members ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche West expedition) on 17 Sept and also bring down to BC Czech members. 24 Oct Thapa and Ang Dorje Sherpa left … when Dutch arrived in force about 5 Sept. Dispute broke out again. They wanted to use … Americans to talk together and Yogendra stayed at ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche BC. American not allowed to go above C1 … of Icefall to prevent Dutch going into Icefall. On one day Dutch made bit of a … and Yogendra made agreement as per Dutch LO. Still at ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche BC when Knutson left 7 days ago. Dutch … might stroll to summit as Peter Hackett did. Shrestha, Tourism - 19 Sept 84 Czech LO …

Changed EVER85102 (1985) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… days from today. Bass - 28 March 85 Kwangde } Parcharmo } spend April climbing thes three peaks ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche East } Go to BC about 6 or 7 April … Bhote Kosi and to Gokyo and Chola to ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche East. Return to Everest BC 1 May or so. …

Changed EVER85404 (1985) — SW Face (Bonington rte) 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… Ki-Heyg (W Ridge leader) - 24 Dec 85 Kim met SW Face leader at ~~Gorakshep~~Gorak Shep on 14 Dec. Only 3 members at BC …

Changed EVER86401 (1986) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall (then down to ~~Lobuje)~~Lobuche) C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western …

Changed EVER87304 (1987) — S Pillar (USA 1981 rte) 1 field

Field	Before	After
Other Summits	~~Flanks of Lobuje East~~	Flanks of Lobuche East

Changed EVER87305 (1987) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… to BC 28 Oct and left BC 30. No yaks could reach BC, only to ~~Gorakshep,~~Gorak Shep, because of deep snow. "It was the wind - we could reach …

Changed EVER88104 (1988) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… decision went against the idea. 18 May 1988 Australians 2-3 May reached Col - after that leader and some members went at ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche 26-27 and others 2-3 May. Left BC 13th May. Brookes said they attempt …

Changed EVER88307 (1988) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… 9th Sept - Pheriche to see radio man 10th Sept - ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche overnight 10/11 11th " - tried to go to top … stopped in US C2, etc; left BC 12 noon and left BC 2:00 pm to ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche 28 Sept - arrived KTM Benoit Chamoux - …

Changed EVER89313 (1989) — S Pillar-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… arrived day before); down to BC 10th Oct. Ghilini and Charlet head cold and fever and left BC 13th Oct. Waited in ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche to learn about sky diving; decided no chance … never obtained; pilot was grounded (and still is). Abert and Fouques left BC 8th Oct - …

Changed EVER90305 (1990) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… double parapente in 15 minutes. Chevalier & Muller Left BC 2 Oct and by ~~chopper~~helicopter to KTM 4th. Were on 2nd team, had … all at BC C2 and above to C4. De La Ferriere at BC because tired after …

Changed EVER90309 (1990) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Members reached S Col 18th Sept but slept … first time on 23rd. Batard by helicopter to ~~Gorakshep~~Gorak Shep 19th Sept and started up from BC 22nd … Janin, Pelle, Decamp failed at 8300m on 22nd]. 2 days to ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche to meet Italian research group there and they … around and was back in BC same day. 3rd Oct Batard from BC to C2 for … 7 am left Col and 4:30 pm at ~~Lobuje.~~Lobuche. 6th Oct Annie Dubois tried for summit (with …

Changed EVER91311 (1991) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… to reach summit. Mazur - 29 Oct 1991 Greg Davis told Mazur at Everest BC he had gone to ~~Gorakshep~~Gorak Shep and Pumori BC for about 3 days but … Balyberdin's team did reach summit about 6 Oct. [Balyberdin told me 27 Oct Davis did not climb Pumori].

Changed EVER92303 (1992) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… stopped at South Summit. Egusiktza - 28 Sept Pixti and Fernandez badly frostbitten toes and F pneumonia also - by ~~chopper~~helicopter to KTM today. Very late on Friday - Ang Rita back …

Changed EVER92310 (1992) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	C2 slightly lower than most others C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Stayed a few days at Pyramid's at ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche (5050m) for physiological tests and then to BC. … and contacting Chinese in Tibet and Italians at ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche and they beamed light from Tibet and laser … Blanc and Vesga left Col and on top. Had to pay 2nd royalty to change route from S Pillar.

Changed EVER92313 (1992) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	1st summit attempt on 25th Sept by 2 members who reached S Summit &and stopped by wind. 2nd bid from col 27th … realized he was too slow & gave up. Batard - 8 Oct 92 Batard arrived 12 Sept BC and started up … C4 to sleep and at noon down to ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche to meet Bruno and Jean-Michel. Stayed at ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche 2 days and on 1st Oct to C2. … difficult technical route alone on South Face Nuptse. Batard - 1 Sept 92 I want to …

Changed EVER93101 (1993) — S Col-SE Ridge 2 fields

Field	Before	After
Other Summits	~~Climbed Lobuje East~~	Climbed Lobuche East
Route Notes	… C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Went 1st to BC, then 3 members to ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche East to acclimatize and then to Namche to … kept to left of SE Ridge below 8500m. 4th member Bach, never climbed on Everest after ~~Lobuje;~~Lobuche; it was decided he did not have the … ability to work with a small, Sherpa-less team. Rheinberger was slow and not strong enough.

Changed EVER93117 (1993) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… and too windy so down at 3 pm. Cleaning: BC area much cleaner than in 1982, … Sherpas cleared away rubbish which they carried to ~~Lobuje.~~Lobuche.

Changed EVER94303 (1994) — N Rib-W Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… kms below BC. Postpone or continue the expedition? Before our departure from Norway we had discussed … adjacent mountains. The rest wanted to postpone the ~~expediton~~expedition and go home. As a climber I wanted … route. As the expeditions leader I concluded differently. "Our common goal was to climb Everest along …

Changed EVER95102 (1995) — NE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Agency	~~Rolwaling Treks~~	Rolwaling Trek

Changed EVER96107 (1996) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Agency	~~Rolwaling Treks~~	Rolwaling Trek

Changed EVER96114 (1996) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Agency	~~Rolwaling Treks~~	Rolwaling Trek

Changed EVER96115 (1996) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… bit frostbitten," emotionally down, "quite shattered and upset." May come to ~~Thamserku/Kantega~~Thamserku/Kangtega in autumn "but just now that's the furthest thing from my mind." Caroline Mackenzie - 12 May am Weathers alive …

Changed EVER96119 (1996) — S Plr-S Col-SE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down) 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… Expects to return to Stockholm end of September. Kropp left Stockholm 16 Oct '95 on bicycle … one-wheel wagon he bought from Sweden. Then climbs ~~Lobuje~~Lobuche (trekking peak) to acclimatize so as to go …

Changed EVER97312 (1997) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… Ochoa, Spanish Lhotse leader - 19 Oct 1997 Mexican team belonged to some Christian sect which … It took them six hours to travel from ~~Gorakshep~~Gorak Shep to BC (trip of an hour or less … as good as the summit for their purpose. 24 Oct 1997 - trekking agent, Santa Subba …

Changed EVER98111 (1998) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… and fix rope above C4 below balcony. Sherpas: Ang Babu (Babu Chiri - EvEverest X7) Dawa (his brother)

Changed EVER98115 (1998) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Agency	~~Rolwaling Treks~~	Rolwaling Trek

Changed EVER98116 (1998) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Agency	~~Rolwaling Treks~~	Rolwaling Trek

Changed EVER98303 (1998) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. 14th Oct C4 occupied by 2 Japanese on this permit and Corro, Pitarch and Sherpas Dorje ~~(Ev~~(Everest X6, Thamo), Gyalzen ~~(Ev~~(Everest X2, Phurte) and Mingma (20 years old, 1st … froze and broke at bottom of Hillary Step. 22 Oct 98 - Ken Noguchi leader of …

Changed EVER99118 (1999) — S Col-SE Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… on May 31 due to massive cocaine overdose. 1 Lakpa Gelu, 32, Ruptsa near Kharikhola, EvEverest X5 times below 2. Tshering Dorje, 28, Kharikhola, EvEverest once before 3. Dawa Nurbu (Danuru), 22, Kharikhola, this his …

Changed GAN507301 (2007) — E Ridge-E Smt from south 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	~~Approach march:~~Approach: Bus to Sundarijal, Saribesi->Tatopani->Jungle Kharka on Bharrange Khola. Ganesh V Expedition led by Mathieu Maynadier - …

Changed GANC04301 (2004) — S Face intended 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… very narrow knife edge with dangerous cornices. Sherpa: Pemba Gyalzen (Cho Oyu X2 and EvEverest X4)

Changed GAUR79101 (1979) — SW Face 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… West Face. Jennifer Read - 2 May 79 ~~Gaurishanker~~Gaurishankar expedition attempting West Face which is very steep. … and leads no where - all broken up. Strongest climbers have been John Roskelley and Kim …

Changed GAUR81101 (1981) — SW Face 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	Franz Huber - 17 Oct 83 Huber's route on ~~Gaurishanker~~Gaurishankar in 1981 spring was SW Face = American route, not SE Ridge. Franz Huber - 24 April 81 Franz Huber … windy. Huber and son - 24 March 81 1st Austrian ~~Gaurishanker~~Gaurishankar Expedition Route = SW Ridge (permit) See what snow …

Changed GURK07301 (2007) — W Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	~~Approach march:~~Approach: Bus to Syabrubesi->Langtang Khola->Kyanjin Kharka->Langtang Tsang Glacier. French Langtang Ri Expedition (actually climbed Gurkarpo Ri) …

Changed GYAJ06301 (2006) — NW side 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… 10 Oct and leaving on 12 Oct. Sherpas: Chhotemba Sherpa, 24/2/85, Walung, ~~Makalu VDC-9,~~Makalu-9, Gyajikang in spring 2005 with French Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, 17/2/88, ~~Jubing VDC-7,~~Jubing-7, Khartse, Gyajikang in 2005 with Japanese, Baruntse 2004 Lhakpa Wangdi, 25/11/77, ~~Chheskam VDC-2,~~Chheskam-2, Solu, Annapurna IV in 2005 with Austrians - Chhotemba Sherpa (24/2/85) Walung, Makalu VDC -9. Summited Gyajikang in spring of 2006 with French expedition. - Pemba Jangbu Sherpa (17/2/88) Juving VDC 7, Khartse summited Gyajikang in 2005 with Japanese expedition, Baruntse 2004 - Lakpa Wangdi Sherpa (25/11/77) Chheskam VDC 2, Solu summited Annapurna IV in 2005 with Austrian Expedition.

Changed GYLZ19101 (2019) — SSE Face from SW 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route 1	~~SSE Face from S~~	SSE Face from SW

Changed GYLZ20301 (2020) — SSE Face from SW 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route 1	~~SW side?~~	SSE Face from SW

Changed HIMJ03301 (2003) — W Ridge-N Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… leads to N-S ridge connecting Himlung and Himjung. 2 Oct 3 climbing members left C1 to … and abandoned climb. Brought body with them by ~~chopper~~helicopter from BC to KTM and 13 Oct was cremated in KTM.

Changed HIML00301 (2000) — NW side (Japan route was not a ridge) 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… peak High point at bottom of West Face. Himlung very difficult to see because hidden from … to Phugaon and returned by Larkya Pass and ~~chopper~~helicopter from Samagaon. Ice face not only difficult, but dangerous avalanche threat.

Changed HIML08304 (2008) — E Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	~~Approach march:~~Approach: Besisahar, crossed Nanum Bhanjyang, following the herdsman trail at right side of the mountain, Koto, Narvia, Kang …

Changed HIML11101 (2011) — SW Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	BC at 4900m at Gyajikang BC. ~~Approach march route:~~Approach: Jomsom, Chaile, Sera Gomba, Lo Manthang, Yara Thanti, … Kund, Japanese BC, Saribung, high camp, Bhrikuti, Phugaon On 21 May three members including leader Wellig …

Changed HIML12302 (2012) — W Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… to Kathmandu and returned to Japan. Sherpa summiters: Angdu Sherpa, 18/9/74, ~~Gaurishanker-3,~~Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha, Makalu X2 Nawang Kalden Sherpa, 1991-2 (2048), Khumjung Phur Temba …

Changed HIML13302 (2013) — W Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… two members left BC on 4 Oct. Sherpas: Kaji Sherpa, ~~Okhaldunga,~~Okhaldhunga, Khijiphalate, 2027/9/5

Changed JOMS18101 (2018) — N Ridge 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	~~Approach march route:~~Approach: Villages on the way up: Nar, Chhubche Kharka, … in Labse Khola. Way down via Loha Khola. BC 29/05 5450m (afoot of the Labse glacier) …

Changed KANB73301 (1973) — NW Face 1 field

Field	Before	After
Route Notes	… broken (C2 was also under snow 2m only). On 20th Oct finally found C3 and wanted … go up and gave up and that day ~~expediton~~expedition abandoned attempts. Same route as Yugoslavia 1965, Ramtang Glacier. If …