Everest | 1989 S Pillar-SE Ridge

A France expedition to Everest in 1989 via S Pillar-SE Ridge, led by Jean-Franck Charlet. Summit reached on 25th September 1989. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 475
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER89313
Peak ID EVER
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Pillar-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jean-Franck Charlet
Sponsor Jean-Franck Charlet Autumn 1989 Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-09-03
Summit Date 1989-09-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1989-10-20
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8450m due to lack of equipment, etc.
High Point (m) 8450
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03,05/09,5350m),C1(07/09,6100m),C2(10/09,6400m),C3(15/09,7150m),C4(20/09,7850m),xxx(25/09,8450m)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 same as Koreans (400m above bergschrund) C4 at right of pillar High point on SE Ridge. When arrived at BC, Japanese had just fixed the icefall with ladders and rope (paid to Japanese to fix icefall and keep it open), so could go right through. Had good relations with S Pillar Koreans and used each others tents. Koreans fixed ropes on pillar which French used. Pillar route is very good: safe and direct. C4 not in normal place: had left it to Sherpas to pick site, but big mistake as in middle of slope, exposed to wind and uncomfortable. 24th Sept 1st attempt from C4 by 3 members in cold and windless day and followed Koreans to S summit. Had arrived C4 late and had bad night and Sherpas then sick. Gouvy had to carry snowboard himself; reached 8400m and turned back, exhausted (previous night no sleeping bags and 1 tent). Gouvy descended to C2 on snowboard entire distance from 8400m, highest place anyone started snow band with 2-3 hrs rest in C4; maximum 1 hr snow boarding total. 25th Flouret tried summit alone from C4 but couldn't find sunglasses for ascent and turned back about 8400-8450m at mid-morning because no glasses and down to C2. 28th 4 members (De Gayardon's first time using crampons) planning to go up from C4 but descended down in snowstorm and to C2. 2 big avalanches off Lhotse Face but no damage. 8th Oct 4 members wanted to go up from C4 but again snowing and in clouds and strong wind so down instead (tents at C4 had been destroyed when arrived day before); down to BC 10th Oct. Ghilini and Charlet head cold and fever and left BC 13th Oct. Waited in Lobuche to learn about sky diving; decided no chance and expedition over 20th Oct. 1 or 2 Oct the two sky divers left BC by helicopter to come to KTM for sky diving onto summit. Had practiced twice in late Aug in Banepa area, but defense ministry upset (at sometime was too near Boeing jet), so when Gouvy in KTM 2nd Oct, tried to get permit but never obtained; pilot was grounded (and still is). Abert and Fouques left BC 8th Oct - other commitments. The team found their South Pillar route on the right of the pillar itself "very good -- safe and direct." But their C4 at 7850m was badly sited, they found, in the middle of a slope and so exposed to wind. Although no one reached the summit, one member Bruno Gouvy, carried a snowboard to 8400m on 24 Sept and made a snowboard descent from that altitude (believed to be the highest altitud anyone had ever begun snowboarding) to C2 at 6400m; total elapsed time snowboarding was one hour, but he rested for 2 or 3 hours in C4 on the way down. He and Patrick De Gayardon had originally planned to parachute onto the summit from a small airplane and then snowboard down, but the Nepalese authorities refused permission for the sky dive.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Society
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449964
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s pillar-se ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Guy Abert M 1949 France Climber Marseille, Bouches-du-Rhone, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Franck Charlet M 1953 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Patrick De Gayardon M 1960 France Climber Lyon, Rhone, France Professional skydiver Details Other expeditions
Michel Flouret M 1947 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jacques Fouques M 1953 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Renalto (Rene) Ghilini M 1957 Italy Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & film-maker Details Other expeditions
Bruno Gouvy M 1962 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Professional snow-boarder Details Other expeditions
Jean Philippe Roncin M 1955 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Benoit Serrell M 1959 France BC Manager Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Professional skier Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER89313 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:232-234 (1990) -
EVER89313 MM - - - 131:5 (Jan 1990) -
EVER89313 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199023204/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Post-Monsoon-Attempt - - -