Everest | 1986 S Col-SE Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Everest in 1986 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Oh In-Hwan. Summit reached on 7th December 1986. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 446
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER86401
Peak ID EVER
Year 1986
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Oh In-Hwan
Sponsor Korean Winter Everest Expedition (S Col Route)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-11-21
Summit Date 1986-12-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 34
Termination Date 1986-12-25
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather (strong winds)
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/11,5400m),C1(03/12,6100m),C2(05/12,6500m),C3(06/12,7300m),C4(07/12,8000m),xxxx(07,21/12,8000m)
Route Notes BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall (then down to Lobuche) C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col High point at South Col. Could make fast progress with Heo who has high altitude experience. 8th Dec planned for summit but wind too strong; descended to BC because of Ang Tshering's frostbite. On 19th Dec Heo and Sungdare started up for next attack. 2 nights at S Col (21-22nd Dec) but wind very strong and no oxygen left at S Col so 23rd Dec again descended and arrived BC at night. All left BC 25th Dec according to plan because Oh's experience with Everest 2 years ago was that weather on Everest in January is very bad and all climbers' condition deteriorates. J B Singh - 8 June Adventure Nepal Singh does not remember case of Ang Tshering but does remember expedition sirdar [Pasang Norbu] didn't get all his salary (and Singh didn't get full pay for trekking group). 2-3 years later, Korean leader (Oh) was seen in KTM; sirdar and Singh went to Oh and demanded payment. Sirdar given equipment to sell. Maybe unhappy while insurance claim unsettled Expedition said no funds Trust paid Rs 15,000 Was with Korean winter 1986 (Dec 1986), frostbite Kami Temba - 6 June Dr. Baskota amputated [for Ang Tshering's injuries] All salary received, most but maybe not all - very difficult In Khunde complained about salary, but on return from KTM no complaints, no Korean. Sonam Gyalzen - 8 May Pasang Norbu, sirdar (Namche) Korean Everest 6-7 years ago Was Ang Tshering's expedition when frostbitten Received salary and insurance but nothing from expedition for frostbite. Is in Thami: farmer, yakman and porter but unable to climb - only 30-35 years. Put insurance money in savings account and comes to KTM occasionally to collect interest.
Accidents Ang Tshering frostbitten toes & fingers; no other problems
Achievement -
Agency Adventure Nepal
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448893
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sook Han F 1964 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Student, chemistry (in University) Details Other expeditions
Jong-Haeng Heo M 1962 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Student Details Other expeditions
Young-Ho Heo M 1954 S Korea Climber Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk, S Korea Office worker (Korean Alpine Club) Details Other expeditions
Sang-Man Lee M 1963 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Ki-Tak Nam M 1944 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
In-Hwan Oh M 1946 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Owner, travel agency Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sungdare Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER86401 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 61:235 (1987) -
EVER86401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723501/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Winter-Attempt - - -