Everest | 1984 S Col-SE Ridge

A Nepal expedition to Everest in 1984 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Yogendra Thapa. Summit reached on 24th October 1984. 29 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 500
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER84302
Peak ID EVER
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Yogendra Thapa
Sponsor First Sagarmatha Preservation Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-08-18
Summit Date 1984-10-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 67
Total Days 73
Termination Date 1984-10-30
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8400m due to death of Thapa and Ang Dorje
High Point (m) 8400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 27
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak (Aug 23)
Campsites BC(18/08,5350m),C1(30/08,6100m),C2(11/09,6400m),C3(7300m),C4(8000m),xxx(24/10,8400m?)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face (US camp not occupied) C4 at South Col. Purpose of Nepalese police team was to clear away rubbish including empty oxygen bottles at S Col and body of German 1979 summiter Hannalore Schmatz, above col. Purpose of US team was to get to Bass to summit in his quest to reach the highest point o on all seven continents. Tourism Ministry's original permit did not allow any member to go to summit; US team left when Yogendra Thapa, who had promised to arrange permission for them to go to top was not able actually to get this permission. Thapa and Ang Dorje died in apparent attempt to reach summit on 24th Oct. Breashears stayed at BC and went to work on Icefall while Bass, Neptune and Kirston immediately went to Island Peak (did not sleep at BC) and returned to BC 25 Aug. C1 established by Breashears, Neptune and 2 Sherpas (Breashars did'nt sleep there). Reached C2 site 4 Sept and occupied it on 11th by Bass, Neptune, Breashears and 5-6 Sherpas. Came down on 15 Sept to BC when HMG called them down. On 14th Breashears and Sherpas had carried loads and put up 1 tent to C3 site at 7300m and on 15 or 16 Sherpas carried loads to Col. Went up and down between BC and C2 during following weeks. On 12th 2 police came to C2; few Sherpas stayed at C2 for security throughout Sept. 14 Oct Bass, Neptune and Breashears and Sherpas to C2 from BC but called off mountain by police and returned to BC 15 Oct. Breashears now packing C2 gear and Sherpas clearing stuff on col and at C3. Breashears - 31 Jan 86 Breashears found bodies of Ang Dorje and Yogendra at bottom of Lhotse Face and put them in crevasse. Wrapped Yogendra in tarp, Ang Dorje was in a tent; bodies had fallen down face, found in spring 1985. Rodney Korich, Bass's BC mgr - 6 Nov 84 Yogendra and Ang Dorje between Col and South Summit at last radio contact 24 Oct in good conditions (no deep snow or severe winds). Next day 2 Sherpas at C4 went up looking for them and saw 2 bodies at point where route steepens above Col at about noon. 26 Oct same 2 Sherpas plus a 3rd who had come up to join them at C4 went up to recover bodies. Reached bodies which were roped together. Appeared they had fallen. Were roped together in bringing bodies down got them onto Lhotse face and bodies entangled in ropes and are hanging there apparently. 2 Sherpas at C4 on 24th including Nawang Yonden. Ang Dorje was determined not to use oxygen but Yogendra did use it and there was plenty at C4. Yogendra had been to C2 several times, total of over a week at C2. Summited Lobuche East with policewomen several times. Kele, Czech Everest - 3 Nov 84 Last Czechs left BC 21 Oct at 10:30 am. Very cold and very strong north wind from Tibet blowing snow. On 20th had talked with Thapa about weather change and strong wind now blowing but did not advise him not to go up. Shrestha, Tourism - 28 Oct 84 Nepal Police Cleaning Expedition: Started expedition KTM under Yogendra Bahadur Thapa 8 Aug - 19 members. Reached BC 23 Aug and 31 Aug established C1, 9 Sept establish C2 22,425 ft. Engaged in cleaning: collected 500 rubbish loads by 22 Sept. 27 Sept just above BC found skeleton of unknown person who had jacket with photo of King Mahendra, bunch of keys and buttons: might be from 1970. In C1, C2 and C3 9 oxygen cylinders and 533 loads of rubbish down to BC - tin, bottles, ropes, etc. 20 Oct - 14 oxygen cylinders from South Col brought to C2 and 2 loads of rubbish from C2 to BC. 21 Oct - 14 oxygen to South Col from 27,500 ft from Col to C2. 20 oxygen and 30 loads of proper plastic and rags cleared in C2. During cleaning programme pieces of helicopter, tents, snow bars, ladders, human leg bones suspected to be Phu Dorje who had been buried at BC in 1981. Meanwhile Thapa and team members helped to rescue Japanese lady Akia Kanazawa from Pheriche and Namacho (were members Lobuche West expedition) on 17 Sept and also bring down to BC Czech members. 24 Oct Thapa and Ang Dorje Sherpa left South Col at 6:00 with the purpose of bringing down body of Mrs Schmatz of 1979 Everest. After reaching 27,000 ft at 9:45 am, other group members had no radio contact. 25 Oct at 11:45 am search group found Thapa and Ang Dorje dead, entangled in ropes. Thapa, born 28 Oct 1948 in Dang District, entered police service 1973 as assistant subinspector and in 1976 inspector. Climbed Tukuche 1976, Pabil 1978, Karyolung 1982 and attempted others. Ang Dorje, 35 years old from Namche (Thamo), 2 times Everest summiter. Czechs LO - 28 Oct 84 Yogendra Thapa arrived BC 19 Oct and started up on 22 Oct. On 19th Ang Dorje was putting tent on South Col. Thapa went to C2 on 22 and Col 23rd and reached 200m above Col. Czechs before departure on 21st advised against attempt to climb because of strong wind. LO heard what happened in Namche on 25th. Neptune - 26 Oct 84 Yogendra Thapa killed on Everest going for summit. 24 Oct 9:00 am last radio contact. Bodies located apparently between South Col and South Summit - extremely windy. Yogendra Thapa left KTM 19 Oct. Had never been above C2 while Americans were around and not after mid-Sept. Helicoptered to BC on 19th. Oxygen would have been used by Yogendra but not by Ang Dorje who also not above C2 (was maintaining Icefall). No real acclimatization. Bass press conference - 25 Oct 84 No plans for Everest in future. Want to get our gear and get home. "Everest is kind of a knot in my belly." By the end of the expedition there was very good cooperation with Dutch. I was strictly member of police team and had nothing to do with their communications. I want you to know that "it was my first real hurt" charge in Nepal that men from Texas bought out police. "I would like to climb Everest but I can do it with some other expedition if Ministry of Tourism will let me and at much less expense." Concerned about long term relations with Nepal for Snowbird and its environment which are important to him and why spent so much money and time on Everest clean-up campaign. Want to teach not only mountain skills but mountain responsibilities at Snowbird center. I'm proud to have been a part of this" of clean-up of Everest. "I have a respectable right to come in and help" and very hurt by queue-jumping charge. "We're going home - were not successful in getting a permit." Was told by my contact, Yogendra Thapa, that this would be a clean-up to the summit." Was told would have chance for summit. Yogendra called him in June it was go ahead. I never read regulations on mountaineering and was unaware of distinction between climbing permit and clean-up permission. "I couldn't conceive permission of there being a big problem" about his going to summit. I'm a sadder but wiser person about permits. "I hoped to get an opportunity [to go to top] but that was not my main concern." Press put on me a bum rap." Knew 3 weeks ago that no permit for Everest for Bass. Had heard before word "permit" but didn't realize distinction between cleaning and climbing permits. Had focused on supplies and logistics; queue-jumping charge not fair when Nepalese police invited Bass. If he had engineered whole clean-up operation as way to get top, then would have been fair. Put $50,000-60,000 in Nepal - some went to Police account. Would be glad to help Nepal climbing school, mountain museum and NMA if their 1986 Everest expedition is a clean-up campaign. Police said problems with Dutch were due to Americans and that why Bass came to KTM last week to seek own permit. Ministry did not give permit because not in accordance with regulations. "Real blame lies with me and my naivete." Regarding police Bass effort, see also: - NZ Everest autumn 1984 file - letters from Peter Hillary from Base Camp. - US Lhotse autumn 1984 who were were actually expecting to climb on Everest [but not to top] after contributing to police clean-up effort. Bass & Breashears - 22 Oct 84 HMG yesterday turned down request for Everest permit, which Bass sought on grounds of help to police clean-up effort and fact that without his ladders, etc., making Icefall passable, others 3 expeditions could not have done their climbs. Breashears goes back to Khumbu by helicopter tomorrow (and Neptune may return to KTM in it) and will go to C2 to pack up their gear there. Sherpas will go to Col to bring down expensive camera equipment there which needs no packing up. David Breashears - 21 Oct 84 Bass trying to get permit to climb Everest until 15 Nov now that all other expeditions are off the mountain. Seeking permit on grounds of all the help they gave other expeditions on Everest by putting in Icefall route, most difficult section of whole South Col route. Dutch Everest - 20 Oct 84 Dutch were stopped from going again in Icefall 3 Sept by police (but their Sherpas were permitted to continue using Icefall route). Americans were at BC then. Agreement reached 8 Sept: terms as reported by Dutch LO except that police not to go above C3 except carries - not to go above C2 till 4 Oct. Bass, Breashears and Neptune left BC on 16 Sept for Gokyo trek and returned to BC BC 26 Sept and went above BC to C2 and their Sherpas went to C3 and C4. Breashears to C3 on 4 Oct, then radio message from KTM brought them down finally as Dutch were leaving. Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84 Nepal Police: Ministry of Tourism has granted permit to NPMAF to clean Everest made following conditions: 1) allowed to clean normal route after Dutch have finished. 2) foreign members attached to this team as photographers are not allowed to go to summit but police are; if try for top will be penalized. SP's letter to M of T says agree Americans will not go above Col. Yogendra Thapa is in BC with his team yesterday - team 45 police. Harald Knutson - 23 Aug 84 Rain snow every day. Very soft snow in icefall and post-holing to C2. Knutson, Dave and Gary put in route through Icefall with Sherpas after Island Peak when Dutch arrived in force about 5 Sept. Dispute broke out again. They wanted to use our Icefall route but not to have us on mountain after 15th. Police didn't want Dutch and Americans to talk together and Yogendra stayed at Lobuche BC. American not allowed to go above C1 and police not strong enough to carry full loads and therefore Dutch claimed Police expedition a farce. Police angry stood in force at beginning of Icefall to prevent Dutch going into Icefall. On one day Dutch made bit of a job to make our route in Icefall parallel to Police route. Then went to Pheriche for more negotiations with Yogendra about 10 Sept. Pertemba, Plugge and Yogendra made agreement as per Dutch LO. Still at Lobuche BC when Knutson left 7 days ago. Dutch have Bass on tape saying he is on Everest to help clean-up, but must admit if he gets to Col and it's in a sunny day, he might stroll to summit as Peter Hackett did. Shrestha, Tourism - 19 Sept 84 Czech LO said today all police and their Americans have left BC and may be by now in Namche.
Accidents Fatal fall by Thapa and Ang Dorje above S Col
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448117
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

29 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal Climber Sedua, Makalu-Barun Police constable Details Other expeditions
Richard Daniel (Dick) Bass M 1929 USA Leader (American) Dallas, Texas Oil geologist & cattle rancher Details Other expeditions
David Finlay Breashears M 1955 USA Climber Newton, Massachusetts Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Harold Arthur Knutson M 1940 USA Climber Oakland, California Geologist Details Other expeditions
Rodney Allison Korich M 1947 USA BC Staff Jamestown, Colorado Professional expedition base-camp manager Details Other expeditions
Gary Robert Neptune M 1945 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Sells mountaineering equipment Details Other expeditions
Yogendra Bahadur Thapa M 1948 Nepal Leader - Inspector Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Sher Bahadur Karki M 1952 Nepal Photographer Dhik Ngawali, Baitadi, Mahakali Police subinspector Details Other expeditions
Ram Kumar Shrestha M - Nepal Cinematographer Dharan, Dhankuta, Kosi Zone Police subinspector Details Other expeditions
Karna Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber/Cleaner Gumda, Gorkha, Gandaki Police Assistant Subinspector Details Other expeditions
Gita Bahadur Joshi M 1958 Nepal Climber/Cleaner Taluwa, Okhaldhunga Police assistant subinspector Details Other expeditions
Gore Tamang M - Nepal Climber/Cleaner Suwarapani, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone Police assistant subinspector Details Other expeditions
Yambar Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber/Cleaner Majgada, Tanahun Police havildar Details Other expeditions
Khil Bahadur Kazi Thapa M 1972 Nepal Climber/Cleaner Parung Village, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone Police havildar Details Other expeditions
Ram Kazi Shivakoti M - Nepal Climber/Cleaner Charikot, Dolakha Police havildar Details Other expeditions
Jit Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber/Cleaner Gumda Village, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone Police constable Details Other expeditions
Hom Bahadur Thapa M - Nepal Climber/Cleaner Hariya Village, Gulmi, Lumbini Zone Police constable Details Other expeditions
Dil Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber/Cleaner Arkuhed Village, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone Police constable Details Other expeditions
Gupta Bahadur Rana M 1945 Nepal Climber Suryapura, Rupandehi, Lumbini Zone Police subinspector Details Other expeditions
Mahesh Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber Birkot Athgar, Syangja, Gandaki Zone Police inspector Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal Climber Beding, Dolakha Police havildar Details Other expeditions
Bharat Bahadur Karki M - Nepal Climber Gode Village, Syangja, Gandaki Zone Police havildar Details Other expeditions
Birendra Subba M - Nepal Climber Khajurmukhi Village, Ilam, Mechi Zone Police havildar Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tshering/Tshiring Sherpa M 1963 Nepal Climber Beding, Dolakha Police constable Details Other expeditions
Indra Bahadur Ghale M 1960 Nepal Climber Barpak, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone Police constable Details Other expeditions
Nima Rita Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Thami, Khumbu Police constable Details Other expeditions
Nuru Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Yarsa, Jiri - Details Other expeditions
Megh Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Exp Doctor Kathmandu Nepal Police physician Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER84302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 59:262-263 (1985) -
EVER84302 AAJ Salisbury, Richard - - 59:261-262 (1985) -
EVER84302 - Bass, Dick & Wells, Frank Seven Summits Warner Books, New York - B156
EVER84302 MM - - - 102:12 (Mar 1985) -
EVER84302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198526102/Asia-Nepal-First-Sagarmatha-Preservation-Expedition - - -
EVER84302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198526200/Asia-Nepal-Nepal-Police-Everest-Clean-Up-Expedition - - -