Everest | 1982 S Col-SE Ridge

A Canada expedition to Everest in 1982 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by William (Bill) March. Summit reached on 5th October 1982. 29 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2068
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER82302
Peak ID EVER
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders William (Bill) March
Sponsor 1982 Canadian Mt Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 49th,50th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK, W Germany
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1982-08-16
Summit Date 1982-10-05
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 50
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 22
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 29
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 3
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/08,5200m),C1(16/09,6060m),C2(22/09,6500m),C3(28/09,7200m),C4(04/10,8000m),Smt(05,07/10)
Route Notes Amatt - 8 Oct 82, 4:10 pm Everybody returned safely to BC at 11:30 am today. Pema Dorje led them through Icefall which was in very dangerous condition. They were very glad to get through it. Canadians will stay at BC with NZ Lhotse who also arrive BC - expect them tomorrow. Team will leave Everest as a team. Climbed Everest as a team and will leave as a team. 13th or 14th to KTM and they are discussing. BC - 8 Oct 82 (Bill March to Bruce Patterson): "Words cannot describe my relief. I have been sitting on the edge of razor for the past month. This has been the most powerful human experience I have been through. It's the hardest thing I have done in my life. All my past climbing has been with my own life. On this I have been responsible for a lot of people's lives." Amatt - 8 Oct 82 Yesterday's summiters left C4 5:20 hours and were on top 11:30 am and returned to C4 14:00 hrs. Went down to C2 which reached 18:15. Today March, Smith, Morrow, Burgess and 8 Sherpas from C2 to BC. All Canadians and Sherpas will below BC and no more climbing will be done on Everest by this expedition says official statement. Climb yesterday was made under ideal conditions. Winds moderate all day, temperature mild: -15 degrees to -5 degrees C, skies clear until party back at South Col. Pema Dorje contracted snowblindness and may slow him down in his descent. Possible he might not get him to BC today, but Sherpas sent up to help him. I will be very relieved when everyone is back in BC in one piece. Its been an outstanding achievement for the men on the mountain: both ascents completed in less than 40 hours from C2 round trip. Everest is not a private mountain, it is a public mountain, its the one mountain in the world everyone knows about. Talking about flying out from SYB [Shyangboche] 14 or 15 Oct. Amatt - 7 Oct 82, 3:45 pm 3:25 pm confirmation came 9:45 am GMT Spear at BC confirms Morrow, Lhakpa Tshering and Pema Dorje reached summit. Now descending from C4. No details available, may not get any until tomorrow. All who left C2 today are at BC. Gallagher said "icefall a nightmare" because not repaired. Amatt - 7 Oct 82, 12:20 pm No confirmation that Morrow and 2 Sherpas have reached summit as of 12:20 local time. Pix show clear trail and summit ridge but could be travel of 2 days ago and a yellow oxygen bottle on summit. No human figures that could be identified as such. At least 3 or 4 hours from now before BC can be confirmed. Laurie in BC and all others descending to BC are below dangerous traverse in Icefall. Amatt - 7 Oct 82, 11:00 am Amatt: "I feel very excited for Morrow, very disappointed for Burgess cause it was his life dream and he will come back but not on this expedition I suspect". Burgess went down to radio which was below C4 at Lhotse dump where Smith had dumped load with radio had gone 1200 feet above. Near South Smt when oxygen failed and went down to C4. Burgess to same extent exhausted himself by pushing out the route to South Col. Despite this I have little doubt he would have made it to the summit if his oxygen hadn't failed. He was one of strongest on team if not the strongest .. alone he has made as big a contribution, if not a bigger contribution to this climb as has Laurie". Amatt - 9 Oct 82, 9:45 am Burgess has turned back about 1000 feet below S Summit. His oxygen set failed; he is descending from C4. Morrow and 2 Sherpas are continuing to summit. Amatt - 7 Oct 82, 8:00 am Tripod not seen by Skreslet, Amatt thinks it buried in snow. No comment about Mrs Schmatz's body. All 3 used oxyen constantly from Col and top and down. Used some they found at old C5. Skreslet had to turn up his flow to keep up with Sherpas. Skreslet left yellow Luxfer oxygen bottle. When Skreslet down at C2, 36 hours without sleep last night: no radio at C4 due to failure to carry C4. Summit party to arrive at top 9:00-9:30 today. Today: 2nd summit party to make bid by Burgess, Lhakpa Tshering and Pema Dorje and maybe Pat Morrow. 2 groups of Sherpas and Canadians from C2 to BC starting 4:00 am: Gallagher, Skreslet, Read and Congdon and 2 Sherpas summiters and 5 other Sherpas. Smith, March and 6 Sherpas wait in C2 to descending summiters. Gallagher is now below C1 and has encountered 2 problems in Icefall that need fixing before can go through it. It has been 2 weeks since route fixed. Weather looks better today than day of 1st summit climb - not very clear. Amatt - 6 Oct 82 Dr. Steve [Bezruchka]: Laurie in very good physical and emotional condition; surprised at how well he seemed to be. Spear: Laurie on top focused thoughts on very practical matters. Spear: last night Laurie said without help of 2 Sherpas climb would not have been possible - then help indescribable. Hillary Step was deep snow but climbed it without difficulty and rapelled down in descent. Laurie he was never sure of success until he no longer had to look up. Second attempt will be launched to put climbers of Everest. Burgess, Lhakpa Tshering and Pema Dorje will be main part of this 2nd attempt. Will go from C2 to C4 today. Morrow, Congdon and Smith will carry loads from C2 to C4 today. If there is enouth oxygen at Col, one of these 3 climbers may join summit attempt. March will carry a load to Col area. Other Canadians will rest in C2 as will balance of 11 carrying Sherpas. 2nd attempt tomorrow, same day some Canadians and Sherpas will descend to BC. Spear: "This may be the last attempt at the peak". Today weather clear and light wind. Amatt: "I think its fantastic. Didn't realise until last night that after all these years of preparations we finally got to the top." Amatt - 5 Oct 82, 7:30 pm Governor General called from Canada is best wishes. Skreslet arrived C2 at 6:30 pm. All rest in C2 tomorrow. Amatt - 5 Oct 82, 4:15 pm At 1:57 pm from LO at BC to Ministry of Tourism: excellent weather during ascent, cold but little wind and good climbing conditions. Skreslet was very happy and Bill March sounded very cool, calm and collected says Spear. At 4:00: 15:26 summit party in C3 and descending C2. Tonight all in C2 and deciding future plans. Amatt - 5 Oct 82, 1:15 pm 12:40 pm today Spear announced "We made it, we made it." Skreslet and 2 Sherpas left C4 04:15 hours and on top at 9:30. Left top 10:00 am and returned Col C4 12:30 and going to C2 today between 14:00 and 15:00 hours. Plane that flew over Everest saw Nepal and Canada and expedition flags on summit, but climbers had left an hour before. Read was on Col all day today. March said this am were discussing another summit attempt in a day or 2 but everyone tired. Amatt - 5 Oct 82, 8:20 am At 4:00 BC said beautiful morning and clear moonlite night and no wind. Perfect day for climbing. Skreslet in excellent mental shape and the 2 Sherpas looking forward to climb. No contact with summit party since 8:00 pm yesterday who should have left C4 at 3:00 am today. Read in C4 last night and today also, or went to top today. Gallagher in C3 last night and to C2 with all 5 other Canadians and 13 other Sherpas including 2 cooks at C2. Technical problems on microwave link now and trying to correct this. Will not be video camera with summit party because batteries dead and not being carried. Amatt - 4 Oct 82 (3rd briefing 5:00 pm) Today 12:45: Skreslet, Sungdare, Lhakpa Dorje reached South Col and by 14:00 hours C4 established. 11 Sherpas helped to carry supplies to site. Weather cool with little wind. Summit attempt starts about 3:00 hours tomorrow. 3 climbers plan to carry 5 or 6 bottles of oxygen. Gallagher and Read reached yellow band 25,000 feet at 2:00 pm and headed down - ran out of strength. All started from C2 at 05:00 hrs. Amatt - 4 Oct 82 (2nd briefing 10:00 am) Summit attempt tomorrow Tuesday if weather and personel conditions permit. This attempt by Gallagher, Skreslet, Sungdare and Lhakpa Dorje. After this attempt most climbers will descend to BC for 5 or 6 days rest before another attempt is made. March at C2 said to Amatt today mounting summit attempt for tomorrow. Today they will establish C4 on Col and tomorrow push for summit. Both days very long days for those involved last few days wind very strong but today weather is good and "we are quietly optimistic" - March March to Bruce Patterson last night: - "fact is all the guys up here are pretty wasted. They (Gallagher and Skreslet) were the two of fittest guys when the weather cleared to make the summit attempt." - "its just a coincidence both Skreslet and Gallagher rested at lower elevations for prolonged periods before returning to high altitude several other climbers were burned out pushing the route to the South Col." - "they (Gallagher and Skreslet) were both later arrivals to this camp (C2) so they were less worn down by the altitude. They haven't actually been directly involved in fixing rope either. Its logical that they are the strongest at this time" - "its just a raffle up here." - "they both seem preetty well calm and committed also pretty happy and ready to go." - "the team is generally tired. We've worked really, really hard. We've been at altitude for 18 days. Its a really long time when you consider the body deteriorates above 18,000 feet." - "one day or 2 days rest at 21,500 feet is not having much effect a lot of us are losing weight and if this attempt fails we are going to have to go down to BC and build ourselves up again before another attempt on the mountain." Amatt: "Gallagher is a very determined man. He has never failed to reach a summit he has set out to climb on an expedition." Also very cautious mountaineer and his decision will be based on correct mountaineering judgement. Skreslet very committed, determined and strong despite slip fall in Icefall bringing down Griffith's body on 2 Sept and cracked 2 ribs. Lhakpa Dorje, 25, from Khunde, climbed Ama Dablam thrice Baruntse, Sungdare, 29, climbed Everest in 1981 autumn and Everest 1979, was on Baruntse 1975 and Australia 1978. If summiters get to top will have gone 8000 feet in 2 days. Left C2 today at 4:00 pm, could be on top by 9:00 am tomorrow. Amatt - 4 Oct 82 (1st briefing 8:00 am) Yesterday Sungdare, Lhakpa Dorje and Burgess fixed rope to Col. Reached Col 15:00 hours without oxygen in mild weather condition. Climbed from C2 - has to be assumed drop in winds. All returned to C2. Burgess said Sungdare and Lhakpa Dorje were going like steam engines when reached Col. Burgess going less strongly: felt a little drunk in hypoxia. Ropes all the way from bottom of face to Col now. Summit pyramid looks Ok - windblown: snow striped off rocks. Burgess now 16 days above Icefall, resting in C2 today. Also yesterday Smith carried load to C3 and all others rested in C2 perphaps 1-1/2 - 2 km col to summit. Today Gallagher, Skreslet, Read, Sungdare, Lhakpa Dorje will carry from C2 to C4. 2 strongest of these Canadians and 2 Sherpas will stay at Col and other Canadian will return to C2. Not necessarily summit party. This will be established in C4. 11 more Sherpas will carry from C2 to C4 and returned; total of 13 load carrying Sherpas in Cwm and above other 5 Canadians rest today in C2. Conditions permitting a recce towards summit will be made tomorrow; this involves people at Col. Some climbers may descend to BC for rest tomorrow. Burgess wants to climb Everest without oxygen and thus has to go back to C2 to sleep. Big job carrying loads from C2 to C4 so new must be in good physical shape, "a long carry at altitude." Spear very optimistic; very happy Col reached. Wind must have dropped. "Big psych boost for expedition to have reached South Col." "It's from South Col they can start thinking of going to summit. Amatt - 3 Oct 82 Oct 1-7 Sherpas carried loads from C2 to C3 and returned to C2. Skreslet carried a load to C3 and stayed in C3. 3 Sherpas tried to go down to C1 but were stopped by new crevasse in Cwm. All Canadians except Skreslet slept in C2. Oct 2 - Skreslet climbed to 24,500 feet without oxygen while clearing fixed lines on Lhotse face. "Big problem on Lhotse Face were gusty winds - it has blowing pieces of ice off top of face and the ice was falling like mortar shells." Gusts of wind were blowing him off his feet and he was protected by fixed rope - hood of his jacket continuously blown off his face and had to crawl on hands and knees because wind so strong. Wind blowing ice particles into his eyes through sides of ski goggles. Without oxygen it was very fatiguing; could take only 10 steps before had to rest. Yesterday 13 Sherpas went to C1 and brought up loads to C2. Today Read and Smith plan to go to C3 and use oxygen to finish fixing rope to Col. Burgess will follow them without using oxygen and helping fix ropes. Gallagher and Congdon will go to C3 to dig out tents. Skreslet, March and Morrow resting in C2. Spear: "In the next few days if the weather permits C4 will be established by carrying loads directly from C2. The climbers are beginning to show signs of fatigue some have spent 16 days at C2 or above." Noisy at C2 from winds and difficult to sleep. Today very clear and no wind. Moores went down with Sherpa and went back up to C2 yesterday. Didn't think Icefall had deteriorated greatly. Hope to go for summit as quickly as possible. Not talking about a C5 so guess not planning one. Amatt - 1 Oct 82 Weather today 14 degrees F at BC and 8 degrees F overnight - some valley fog today. Yesterday Congdon, Smith, Sungdare and Pema Dorje reached 25,500 feet, 1 hour below Col. Were fixing ropes. Today no movement on mountain due to high winds except 3 Sherpas C2 to C1 to C3 with loads. All men at C2 tonight. Steve and 2 Sherpas from BC into Icefall today, assume repairing route. No target dates for summit or C4 and no decision regarding C5; it appears weather restricting progress and until that wind dies down doubt there will any progress on the mountain. Amatt - 30 Sept 82 Radio problems today, batteries at BC low and radio cold. Yesterday fixed rope fixed to yellow band at 24,500 feet by March, Morrow, Lhakpa Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering. Today Congdon, Smith, Sungdare and Pema Dorje will continue to fix lines towards Col from C3. Gallagher and Read to carry loads from C2 to C3 and returned to C2 from 2 and Burgess will go up from C2 and follow Congdon and Smith and assist in fixing ropes. All Sherpas except Sungdare and Pema Dorje rest in C2 today. March, Morrow and Skreslet also rest in C2 (Skreslet for 3rd day). No information regarding who came down through Icefall with Sherpa for funeral. Appears extended route only 200 feet yesterday despite using oxygen presumably which means weather must have been very bad. "Progress has slowed down drastically due to adverse weather conditions." Amatt - 29 Sept 82 Today +12 F at BC but last night 6 F. Today very light winds and crystal clear skies. Yesterday Burgess, Lhakpa Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering got within 200 feet of yellow band on Lhotse face at above 25,000 feet and fixed ropes to that point. Today March, Morrow and same 2 Sherpas will continue fixing rope towards Col using oxygen for first time. March and Morrow will return to C3 tonight or last night and 2 Sherpas to C2. Smith and Congdon will go for C2 to C3 with Sungdare and Pema Dorje. 7 other Sherpas will carry from C2 to C3 and return to C2. Read, Burgess, Skreslet and Gallagher rest in C2 today. Pasang Nuru to BC today for his brother dead Catalan Sherpa's funeral with Paul Moores of Lhotse. Tonight 6 in C3: March, Morrow, Smith and Congdon plus Sungdare and Pema Dorje. Major problems with strong wind and heavy drifting snow on Lhotse face. Box tents of C3 buried by snow last night and had to be dug out: gust sheets of wind-blown snow being blown down Lhotse face. Last night March and Morrow complained of mild headaches at C3, thus using oxygen because of these headaches (symptoms of lack of acclimatization indicated programmes not allowing bodies to adapt) and hard to breath in dried snow. Sherpas today bringing more snow anchors and rope which are needed to make route to C4. Hope to reach C1 today but no target date for making C4 these. Could be 2 or 3 days before C4 established; definitely not establishing C4 tomorrow. No decision on a C5. Paul Moores and Sherpa down through Icefall today: this am 4 Sherpas up from BC with ladders to enable them to pass through it - why Moores down don't know. Face = 45 degrees snow slope. "They are progressing as well as possible but strong winds are bound to slow them down." Preferably good thing to slow down to acclimatize better and better chances to reach summit. Summit climb will be before Oct 10. March yesterday evening: "conditions are very tough up here; great sheets of snow are blowing down the Lhotse face." Box tents weight 40 lbs each, made of ballistic nylon (which used for bullet proof jackets). Amatt - 28 Sept 82 Weather: clear skies, no clouds, no fog today. Yesterday high winds and blowing snow on mountain creating 1m ground blizzard (spindrift to 1m off ground) so hard to breathe and seen and hard to pitch tents at C3, which did however - earlier 400 feet fixed rope installed above C3 by Congdon - not as far as had hoped. Today Burgess, Lhakpa Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering will fix ropes above C3 towards C4. Morrow and March will occupy C3 tonight with these 2 Sherpas while Burgess to C2 tonight. Congdon, Skreslet, Smith rest at C2 today. Gallagher and Read 2 all other 14 Sherpas carry from C2 to C3 and returned to C2. No traffic through Icefall. Higher part of mountain typical condition yesterday "to be expected they will get more windy days like that." Amatt - 27 Sept 82 Overnight temp +16 degrees F - +18 degrees F at BC - crystal clear skies, no clouds in sight this am. Yesterday Burgess, Sungdare and Pema Dorje reached site C3 at 23,500 feet - fixed ropes to site. March, Lhakpa Dorje and Dawa Nuru also reached C3 carrying loads. Morrow reached site filming all returned to C2. Todays plan: 6 Sherpas from C2 to C1, pickup loads and carry to C2. - Skreslet, Smith and 6 Sherpas will carry from C2 to C3 and return C2. - Congdon will go to site of C3 and start fixing ropes towards C4 and return to C2 - may have Sherpas with him. - 5 other Canadians rest at C2. "Given good weather, C4 on South Col could be reached about Sept 30" says BC mgr Spear. Plan to occupy C3 tomorrow. All in good health, no altitude problems. "Progress seems very fast" - Amatt Amatt - 26 Sept 82 Today dramatic improvement in weather. Yesterday 100m cloud ceiling, today no clouds - +10 F degrees, light wind today - excellent for climbing. Yesterday no movement at all because bad weather: snowfall and very bad visability and potential avalanche. Today all in C1 will move to C2 to stay: Read, Skreslet, Gallagher, 10 Sherpas and 2 cooks - already left C1. Burgess, Sungdare and Pema Dorje will continue fixing ropes to C3; behind them March, Smith and Congdon, Lhakpa Dorje and Dawa Noru will carry to C3 and return to C2; will be first to reach site of C3 at 23,500 feet part way up face. Morrow will go with load-carriers from C2 to C3 to film. So 8 members and 16 Sherpas in C2, no one in C1. Expect some men to occupy C3 tomorrow. Will take at least a week to go to top and probably longer. Amatt says lost a day rest yesterday. Shyam, Tourism - 24 Sept 82 Today 1 member Skreslet and 4 Sherpas BC to C1 and 4 returned to BC. Gallagher, Read and Skreslet at C1 tonight. 4 Sherpas yesterday returned to C1, did not stay at C2. Last night in C2 5 Canadians and 5 Sherpas. Amatt - 23 Sept 82 Weather still clear skies; last night +8 degrees F (lowest for this expedition); now 10 degrees and light winds; summit clear. Today March and Congdon have gone to C2 to stay. Today Gallagher, Read and 10 Sherpas went from C1 to C2. 4 Sherpas stayed at C2 and others returned to C1. Icefall deteriorating. Gallagher yesterday through Icefall and saw major ice collapse in upper part at about 5700m. Don't want anyone to go through it unless absolutely necessary. In Cwm: 14 Sherpas, 7 Canadians and 4 Lhotse members = 25 people. 480 man-days of food in C1 464 " of food in C2 944 which NZ Lhotse sharing; 25 people eating it 38 days. All up before accidents. 42 oxygen which is more than adequate Enough tents, 13 bottles gas. Well supplied to stay in West Cwm for quite a while; "no need to come through Icefall." No recent snow past week in Cwm and everybody very anxious to get onto Lhotse face. New strategy discussing now: Sherpas carrying to C4 from C2 not occupying C3. Members would occupy C3 but Sherpas not. NZ Lhotse have fixed rope towards C3. March and Hillary meeting today to discuss future movements up to and on face. Canadians may put a C5 above Col; this being considered. Skreslet expected to arrive BC today. Tonight 5 Canadians at C2; 8 or 9 Sherpas at C2. If possible there will be a Sherpa on summit. Even thinking earlier that Oct, maybe even Oct 1 for summit: a week from today. Strategy to go as fast as they can; modifying strategy. Amatt - 22 Sept 82 "Progress seems to be very good - tendency may be to go too fast" because of wish to take advantage of good weather and not acclimatize properly. Al Burgess however experienced man will control and thus function as climbing leader. Skreslet in Pheriche today and returned to expedition - is fit; had gone to Khunde for check-up after cracking ribs 2 Sept in helping evacuate Griffiths. He and Steve go to C1 in a few days and on to C2. C3 will be at about 23,500 feet on Lhotse face. Yesterday March said "climbing conditions are excellent Sherpas doing excellent job" and very committed. 5 Sherpas at C2 11 Sherpas at C1 6 Sherpas at BC from C1 today -- 22 active today Top camp will be C4 on Col. More than 1 carry up through Icefall because have realized couldn't get up all supplies in one carry. Now should have all (except minor items). None now want to come down to BC until expedition ends. Always chance expedition to Everest is abandoned, but with conditions very good as they are now they'll go up very fast. Target summit date now is Oct 7. NZ Lhotse-Canada Everest basically route same to NZ Lhotse C4 on face C3's not necessarily same since different requirements. Agent says Canadians 1 day behind Lhotse. N Zealanders did not want to be overwhelmed by big expedition and wanted do their share lead climbing. Shyam, Tourism - 22 Sept 82 Gallagher, Read and 10 Sherpas went to C1 this am today. 6 Sherpas will return to BC and others remain. From C1 to C2 5 members and 11 Sherpas: 2 will return to C1 (March and Congdon), Burgess, Morrow and Smith stay at C2 with 5 of these Sherpas. First time C2 occupied. Weather clear, light wind at BC, +14 degrees F. Sharma, Tourism - 21 Sept 82 No one from BC to C1 today. From C1 to C2 Bill March, Morrow and 11 Sherpas. Left C1 at 5:00 am and arrived 7:00 am today; will return to C1 today. Weather clear, light wind at BC and C2, +20 degrees F at BC. C2 expected to be occupied tomorrow by 4 members: Smith, Burgess, Congdon and Morrow in C1, but not going up. March now in BC: Gallagher, Read, Skreslet in Khunde; Frolick to KTM 22 Sept Amatt - 20 Sept 82 Can Everest plan total of 4 high camps: C3 on Lhotse face and C4 on Col. Will climb on oxygen from Col. Sharma, Tourism - 20 Sept 82 Leader and 6 Sherpas left BC 4:00 am for C1. 6 Sherpas return at 9:00 am to BC and leader staying at C1. 3 members and 11 Sherpas ferried loads to C2 and not yet returned but are coming back. Sunny and light wind at BC. Shyam, Tourism - 19 Sept 82 This morning 2:37 am 4 members and 10 Sherpas left C1 to C2 site; left site 7:00 and are returning to C1. Burgess, Morrow, Smith and Congdon dumped loads at C2 which will be at last night - these 4 members and 12 Sherpas slept at C1. No one this am up from BC to C1. March and 3 others members and few Sherpas went into Icefall for shooting film. Weather clear at BC and light wind. Will establish C2 2-4 days from today. Enrick from Amatt - 18 Sept 82 Burgess and Morrow and approx 10 Sherpas dropped loads and returned to C1 packed out this trail to C2 and by doing so recovered all the ground lost by the accidents. 1 or 2 more days before occupying C2, C2 at usual site. Smith builds ladder bridge across crevasse between C1 and C2 (Congdon the 4th in C1 last night). No indication when others will move up from BC to C1. Weather still very clear, 20 degrees F, freezing hard and consolidating snow; only sinking 6" into snow whereas previously up to knees. "Climbing conditions sound like they're ideal." Shyam, Tourism - 18 Sept 82 March returned to BC yesterday 9:00 am. This morning March and 12 Sherpas left BC to C1. 2 of these Sherpas will stay at C1 and March to BC. Last night 4 members and 10 Sherpas in C1. This morning 2 C1 men went to C2 at 6:45 and immediately returned to C1 - recce route and find site for Burgess and Morrow and 10 Sherpas. Weather clear, wind normal. No information regarding Lhotse or Spanish Everest. Sharma, Tourism - 17 Sept 82 C1 at 6060m 2:00 pm yesterday by 3 members as stated yesterday (not Gallagher). C2 in 4-5 days. All in good health. Today 21 Sherpas and March gone up to C1. 10 Sherpas and March will return to BC. Different camps: Lhotse and Everest Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 82 Today 3:00 am 4 members and 8 Sherpas left BC to establish C1. Gallagher and all 8 Sherpas return to BC at 9:00 am after dumping loads at C1. Al Burgess, Gordan Smith, Pat Morrow now at C1 site and established it today. Today at BC sunny and no wind. Sharma, Tourism - 15 Sept 82 Weather at BC very good, not misty or windy, but Canadians and Sherpas not started moving today. March now at BC [left 10th]. Sharma, Tourism - 14 Sept 82 Heavy snowfall last night today no avalanche in Icefall; yesterday Sherpas only. HMG has given permission to use SE Ridge route from Lhotse face and South Col. Hillary's no objection to this; he says want Canadians behind Lhotse: this not on HMG stipulation: to be worked out between two teams. Prachandra Shrestha, Tourism - 13 Sept 82 5 Canadian Everesters now in KTM: Serl, Blench, McNab, Auger, Elzinga. Ropes fixed half way to C1 Today - today weather good. Only summit material are Al Burgess and Laurie Skreslet, and Skreslet fell into crevasse and cracked some ribs [broke 2, says Skreslet postcard]. Burgess is effectively climbing leader and likeliest summiter and if Lhotse team have said Everest climbers must come after Lhotse men, Burgess can enforce this by threatening to walk off. March not strong leader; was ready to call off expedition or make it a joint one to Everest with Lhotse men after accidents and frightened men with bad karmas left. Amatt changed his mind for him about joint expedition. Sherpas should not have been exposed to avalanche that killed 3 of them on 31 Aug. Cans had been occupying C1 for days in violation of permit on excuse that men there could give weather reports. On 31 Aug March decided to sleep 2 extra hours and when he got up at 5:00 am Sherpas party had left. When C1 came on radio at 5:15 they said no one should enter Icefall that day as they had had snowfall of 8-12 inches (and there had been a little snow that was accumalating over previous days) while there had been no snowfall at BC - but by 5:15 it was too late and when huge avalanche came down at 5:30 (and spindrift covered BC) all they could do was count the returning men. Cans had gotten blase about Icefall's fine condition and were going into it later and later in the day. Griffiths was puttering around with men building a bridge at 9:00 am when no one should have been in Icefall that late. No effective leadership: March had gone to Lobuche with Sherpa's body for cremation and Gallagher was up at C1. By 2 Sept accident, Cans had all loads at top of Icefall they needed except 30 loads of Sherpa food. Had in fact more than needed for reduced manpower and making same of it available to Lhotse expedition. Regarding Roger Marshall's being fired, one story was he sent out of Nepal hollow ice axes filled with drugs. Alex Witten-Hannah - 20 Sept 82 C1 1st occupied 26 or 27 Aug definitely - 28th and had reached C2 site before 1st Sept but hadn't occupied C2. Patterson was there in C1 would radio BC at 3:00 am to discuss weather and advisability of entering Icefall. 31st Aug March in C1 slept 2 hours later by decision before sleeping. For 10 days before 31 Aug one to 2 inches of snow daily building up; 30-31 Aug, 12-18 inches fell. "These deaths were unecessary" = Sherpas and March's responsibility to prevent these as much as possible. Amatt - 8 Sept 82 We have just made request to change to South Col. Plan to have 8 climbers and 12 Sherpas to push up not in one continuous push. Icefall extremely dangerous - only area through it. Very unexpectful of the mountain - incredibly bad luck with 2 avalanches. Very cautious, wait for perfect weather. If we are all careful no more deaths on Everest. Summit mid-Oct. Objective to have Canadian on each summit remains same. Amatt back to BC in a week. Bill under incredibly pressure; taking time off in Namche, back to BC in 5-6 days. Mood very upbeat; take several days to get over tragedies. Fairly confident of success, but not in any great push, proceeding as cautiously as possible. Jones left for medical re-examination: altitude trouble; other 6 left for personal reasons. Did not wish to continue, too dangerous to continue; were intimately involved in rescue of those hit. Amatt decided to stay in BC. Does not wish to expose himself to danger. Climbers: March, Gallagher, Smith, Morrow, Read, Skreslet Congdon not decided. Hillary had given his approval to use part of his route. 120 loads already in C1 site including 40 oxygen, 25 tents Icefall very unstable and very dangerous. No Sherpas left except for medical; at least 20 stick there, one very comitted to expedition. 1st avalanche at 5:30 am usual time for avalanche; fell from West Shoulder, slab avalanche fell 5000 feet. 7 people involved: 2 members buried and escaped: Baillie and Spear; Baille dug Spear out. 2 Sherpas got themselves out but not completely and 3 completely buried. Rescue team of Elzinga, Blench and several others went up and probed and dug and found only one body which tried to revive. 16 people carrying in Icefalls and much equipment. Were lost 18,500 feet. 2nd was serac collapse at 18,300 feet when party repairing crevasse bridge. Baillie not hit but very close and helped evacuate body. Read's ice he was standing on tilted him into crevasse. 1 Sherpa also there = 4 people in party. After accidents to continue or not; abandoning expedition seriously discussed but commitment and length of time left. Auger was not hurt by any accident but helped in rescue as rescue expert. Sharma: possibility permit will be given to change route. Sharma, Tourism - 7 Sept 82 7 members have left expedition yesterday left BC. Some are sick and some are frightened by deaths on mountain: - David Jones (sick) - Donald Serl - Jim Elzinga - Tim Auger - ok - David McNab - Rusty Baillie - Jim Blench Due to decrease in number of members of expedition, March requested Ministry of Tourism to change route to South Col. Amatt comes on Tomorrow's helicopter to brief Sharma. Morale of all these are left is high and health is good. HMG will take few days to decide on route change; meanwhile remaining members can continue. Sharma, Tourism - 4 Sept 82 George Griffiths instantly killed and Tim Auger injured (minor injuries). Dawa Nima Tshering, Pasang Tenzing injured minor by avalanche 9:00 2 Sept in Icefall. Injured men in BC and being treated there. All other Canadians and Sherpas in good health. 2 Sherpas killed 31 Aug not found. Sharma, Tourism - 1 Sept 82 On 31 Aug at 3:00 am 6 members and 10 Sherpas want to recce route in Icefall. 5:30 am suddenly snow avalanche buried and killed 3 Sherpas: - Pasang Sana, 30, Khunde - Ang Chuldin, 20, Khumjung - Dawa Dorje, 42, Thami Pasang Sana's body found; others not, but search continues. Health of all members and others Sherpas is good. Permitted to recce route before Sept 1 beginning of season. March - 23 July 82 Polish pillar route to 7900m and then more direct on pillar upwards to top with C5 at 8400m which rejoins Polish route just below this and is at same site as Polish last camp. Taking oxygen; using it above C4 at about 25,000 feet and perhaps for sleeping lower by fixing men. C1 top of Icefall C2 in Cwm about 21,700 feet C3 - 23,500 ft C4 - 25,700 ft C5 - 27,500 ft top 10-15 Oct non-Canada Baille (USA or Canada??) Fuhrich (Germany) Burgess (British) Sherpas : 29 climbing Sherpas Al Burgess - 15 Oct 82 Bill March fired Roger Marshall because March feared he would be unable to control Marshall. Excuse was rumours of drug smuggling when Marshall was in Nepal for Annapurna IV. At start 8 Sept 15 climbers 7-8 climbers 2 doctors 1 doctor 1 BC cook 1 BC cook 1 journalist 1 journalist 1 BC mgr 1 BC mgr 1 cameraman 1-2 at BC -- --- 21 13
Accidents Griffiths and 3 Sherpas killed in Khumbu Icefall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447320
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

29 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
John Amatt M 1945 Canada Business Manager Banff, Alberta Educational consultant Details Other expeditions
Timothy Frank (Tim) Auger M 1946 Canada Climber Canmore, Alberta National park warden Details Other expeditions
Robert (Rusty) Baillie M 1940 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta University professor of physical education Details Other expeditions
Stephen Bezruchka M 1943 Canada H-A Exp Doctor Seattle, Washington Physician Details Other expeditions
James Blench M 1955 Canada Climber Seebe, Alberta Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Alan Burgess M 1948 UK Climbing Leader Calgary, Alberta Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Dwayne Congdon M 1956 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jim Elzinga M 1954 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Freelance photographer Details Other expeditions
Kurt Fuhrich M 1949 W Germany BC Cook Banff, Alberta Restauranteur Details Other expeditions
Lloyd William (Kiwi) Gallagher M 1939 Canada Deputy Leader Canmore, Alberta Mountain-rescue specialist Details Other expeditions
George Blair Griffiths M 1949 Canada Climber N Vancouver, British Columbia Freelance cameraman Details Other expeditions
David Jones M 1931 Canada Exp Doctor Innisfail, Alberta Physician Details Other expeditions
William Joseph (Bill) March M 1941 Canada Leader Calgary, Alberta Professor of physical education at University of Calgary Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) McNab M 1955 Canada Climber Lethbridge, Alberta Alpine & skiing instructor Details Other expeditions
Patrick (Pat) Morrow M 1952 Canada Climber Kimberley, British Columbia Photographer Details Other expeditions
Bruce Patterson M 1949 Canada Journalist Calgary, Alberta Newspaper reporter Details Other expeditions
David Read M 1948 Canada Climber Vancouver, British Columbia Millwright Details Other expeditions
Donald (Don) Serl M 1947 Canada Climber Vancouver, British Colombia Sporting goods buyer Details Other expeditions
Laurie Skreslet M 1949 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gordon Smith M 1945 Canada Climber Golden, British Columbia Business manager of his wife's vet clinic Details Other expeditions
Peter B. Spear M 1940 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Junior high school teacher Details Other expeditions
Sungdare Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pema Dorje Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sana Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Chuldin Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Roger Gough Marshall M 1941 Canada Climber Golden, British Columbia Carpenter Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER82302 AAJ March, William - - 57:227 (1983) -
EVER82302 HJ Belvis, Lluis & March, Bill Everest Expeditions, 1982 - 40:52-58 (1982-1983) -
EVER82302 - Burgess, Al & Palmer, Jim Everest Canada Stoddart, Toronto - B624
EVER82302 - Morrow, Patrick Beyond Everest Camden House, Camden East, Ontario - M520
EVER82302 - Patterson, Bruce Canadians on Everest Detselig, Calgary - P100
EVER82302 MM - - - 89:11 (Jan 1983) -
EVER82302 - Skreslet, Laurie To the Top of Everest Kids Can Press, Toronto - -
EVER82302 CAJ March, Bill Canadians on Everest - 66:4-5 (1983) -
EVER82302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322700/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest - - -
EVER82302 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/40/10/everest-expeditions-1982/ - - -