Gyalzen Peak | 2020 SSE Face from SW

A Nepal expedition to Gyalzen Peak in 2020 via SSE Face from SW, led by Sharmila Lama Tamang. Summit reached on 19th October 2020. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10529
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYLZ20301
Peak ID GYLZ
Year 2020
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SSE Face from SW
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Sharmila Lama Tamang
Sponsor Jugal Expedition 2020
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2020-10-17
Summit Date 2020-10-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 2
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6151
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/10),C1(18/10),Smt(19/10)
Route Notes From Soul Himalaya Facebook Post, 31 Oct 2020 Summit Jugal Himal within 10 days of the round trip! Closed to the capital city Kathmandu, Jugal Himal is one of the hidden treasures both for the trekkers and climbers. The virgin peaks and the unspoiled region nearby the capital fascinated us to organize a mission to Summit Gyalsen Peak of the Jugal Himal range. The authority of the Jugal municipality and Sindhu Tourism Council wanted to promote tourism in the local area. Milan Lama, social worker and general secretary of STC, was very much interested to work with the local authority to promote tourism in the Jugal region. Soul Himalaya Trek worked together with the team to organize the mission expecting to have long coordination with the locals to promote tourism in the area. We left Kathmandu on 13th October with five Nepalese mountaineers led by Sharmila Tamang who is also human rights activist and is on a mission to submit the fourteen peaks above eight thousand along with the Himalayan range. We took a four-wheeled drive and left Kathmandu early morning. After we crossed Dhulikhel the winding road entered Helambu valley. We reached Gumbathang, a Tamang village where the trek started. Passing through agro fields the trail meets several villages of ethnic Tamang and Sherpa communities with their traditional lifestyle. Stunning views of mountains and green valleys rejoiced us. On the second day, we reached Dipu, a small settlement of Sherpa by Balephi River, which source is Jugal Mountain. On the third day, we reached Pemasal, a little valley of Lotus. A little stream flows through the valley make the place special for camping. The next day we ascended through alpine forests. The streams running down to the valleys attracted us providing heavenly views. Lopophoras, the national bird of Nepal were flying spreading their colorful wings. Mt. Phurbigachu (6500m) greeted us there and we felt like we were in paradise. On the fourth day when we reach Bumbaserphu, the village name after Sacred Vase, there is a stone cave look live vase and below there is a place for meditation. We see the reflection of the mountain on the little lake below. The view of Phurbigachu appears in the lake which was a great experience. On the fourth day, we reached the lower base camp. The view of Jugal appears after the 30 minutes walk from the base camp. The expedition started early morning. We found Jugal a challenge to summit. To find a climbing route in a virgin peak can be very much crucial than to climb Everest itself. There were things to handle with technical proficiency. Fixing ropes on the vertical slope was a tuff job. We had to pull the stuff and team members on the rope and walk along with the long cracked glaciers to reach the high camp. But our members were well experienced. We were friends and had good teamwork. Discovering challenges in every step and facing them we succeeded with great excitement. Jugal is not a common tourist destination that’s why it is special. It’s about discovering virgin routes; we hardly get such an opportunity in the other trekking areas like Jugal. The locals count you more than a tourist, the hospitality of people and their lifestyle attracted us more than in any other tourist routes. It will be a wonderful homestay experience, delightful trekking in nature, or exciting experience for the climbing enthusiasts where a single base camp offers routes to more than six different peaks of Jugal mountain ranges! It’s also a holy pilgrim’s site of Buddhist peoples where Padhmasambhawa (Guru Rimpoche) has stepped in the Jugal base camp while he was going to Tibet. There is a big cave that can host more than 1000 people and we can see the trace of pots which considered to be used by the Rimpoche himself! Apart from mountaineering, it can be a wonderful trekking experience in this region. Sindhu Tourism Council has recently developed 9 days attractive trekking circuit in the Jugal region from Kyansing to Gompathang. Soul Himalaya Treks and Tours had organized an expedition together with Jugal Municipality recently in October 2020. I, as a mountain leader and instructor, had an opportunity to climb Gyalsen Peak (6151m) together with the five expedition members. After successfully summiting the peak we returned to Kathmandu within 10 days!
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Soul Himalaya
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461207
Year 2020
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sse face from sw

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sharmila Shyangtan Lama Tamang F 1990 Nepal Leader Bhimkhori, Kabhrepalanchok - Details Other expeditions
Ang Chhiring Sherpa M 1989 Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M 1986 Nepal H-A Worker Mapya Dudhkoshi-1, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khotang - Details Other expeditions
Sarki Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYLZ20301 - - https://kathmandupost.com/visual-stories/2020/11/03/jugal-himal-area-near-kathmandu-is-a-hidden-gem - - -
GYLZ20301 - - https://highlightstourism.com/2020/10/13/preparations-on-for-gyalzen-peak-summit-in-jugal-himal/ - - -