Gaurishankar | 1979 SW Face

A USA expedition to Gaurishankar in 1979 via SW Face, led by William A. Read, Pertemba Sherpa. Summit reached on 8th May 1979. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2072
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUR79101
Peak ID GAUR
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders William A. Read, Pertemba Sherpa
Sponsor Nepal-American Joint Gaurishankar Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Lamabagar->Bhote Kosi->Rongshar Gorge
Basecamp Date 1979-04-08
Summit Date 1979-05-08
Summit Time 1515
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7135
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 2950
Total Members 10
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,4900m),ABC(13/04,5000m),C1(19/04,5250m),C2(25/04,5875m),C3(03/05,6550m),Smt(08/05)
Route Notes Al Read, Press conf - 18 May 79 Route = SW Face-SW Ridge very, very long and goes only to South Summit with another problem ridge to Main Summit. So took alternative face route which made logistics easier. C3 highest camp but 2'x5' at 21,500 ft on 3 May. Only 1 summit attempt: C3 so small. After Roskelley and Dorje on top, had minor illness, Schmitz minor frostbite in feet, others not acclimatized and Hennek had to leave. Roskelley: technically this route as hard or harder than any that has been done above in Himalayas - not as high as many. Technical = ice and rock climbing is same of hardest in Alps. 9000 ft fixed rope used - face 8000 ft. Some vertical ice - last rock band, standing in slings from pitons not really secure. Left C3 at 5:30 am and took 10 hours to top, putting in fixed rope up last 2000 ft of very hard climbing. Summit broad snow plateau of soccer field size - 15 mins on summit. North Buttress of Nanda Devi as hard rock climbing but for ice climbing can't find anything harder in world. Roskelley 90's ice pitch above C3. "This climb harder than K2 and Dhaulagiri - at 22,000 ft this the biggest thrill for me. Showing you have the skill and stamina to do it." Dorje not a technical climber, but had strength and will-power to do this climb; most impressive says Roskelley. Pertemba went to C3; he had opportunity to go to summit, but he insisted others go first; he was going strong, but wanted his collegues to have first chance. Dorje on 6 Everest expeditions; on American Manaslu Expedition 1978. Jennifer Read - 9 May 79 Dennis Hennek arrived KTM feels fine now, but didn't until he got below 10,000 ft on 6th. Left BC on 5th; got sick at 22,000 feet on 3rd. C3 at 22,000 ft couple days before and summit indirect (i.e., on 5 to 8 May) - who not decided - on West Face. Jennifer Read - 2 May 79 Gaurishankar expedition attempting West Face which is very steep. SW Ridge "wanders" and leads no where - all broken up. Strongest climbers have been John Roskelley and Kim Schmitz with Pertemba doing well. Dennis Hennek and Al Read have been sick (bronchitis) and Jim Morrissey say's he's too old. C1 near bottom of face which is about 6000 ft. Al Read - 25 March 79 Leave tomorrow altogether. Arrive BC in about 11 days above Lamabagar at head of Bhote Kosi River at about 16,000 ft. British NW Ridge is now in Tibet. Route = West or SW Ridge 97 porters Most difficult part of route is getting up to South Summit - long knife-edge ridge with no place for camps. Will be an ABC; from there begin work on ridge and maybe above this camp. Will be able to dig snow cave for C1 at about 6100m. C2 below S summit. Most difficult part = ABC to C2 at about 6700m. Maybe small camp on saddle between South and Main Summit. Permit is for west side so have another option: West Face part in Nepal. Ridge probably more reasonable objective. Ridge looks safe but very hard technicallly. Once BC established, 4 weeks to top Only medical oxygen 10 members including 2 leaders Sirdar Ang Nima stays at BC; none above BC that isn't member. We are up against it: unexplored not technically difficult but very strong and determined team. Given good weather luck and continued determination and cooperation we have good chance. Unexplored in sense British were on other side part of the mountain.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446296
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dennis Paul Hennek M 1946 USA Climber Ventura, California Alpine guide & building contractor Details Other expeditions
James Dell (Jim) Morrissey M 1936 USA Climber Stockton, California Cardio-thoracic surgeon Details Other expeditions
William Albert (Al) Read M 1936 USA Co-Leader Kathmandu Alpine guide in Wyoming; in Nepal executive of an outdoor-firm Details Other expeditions
John Fenton Charles Roskelley M 1948 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Photojournalist & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Kim Schmitz M 1946 USA Climber Oakland, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Jangbu (Ang Jambu) Sherpa M 1958 Nepal Climber Pangboche, Khumbu Trekking & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Climber Dola Kharka, Solukhumbu Trekking guide & mountain porter Details Other expeditions
Pasang Ongchu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Climber Namche Bazar, Khumbu Trekking & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pertemba Sherpa M 1948 Nepal Co-Leader Khumjung, Khumbu Trekking & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Sherpa M 1950 Nepal Climber Namche Bazar, Khumbu Trekking & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUR79101 AAJ Read, Al The Nepalese-American Gaurishankar Expedition - 53:417-428 (1980) -
GAUR79101 MM - - - 68:13-14 (Jul 1979) -
GAUR79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198041700/The-Nepalese-American-Gaurishankar-Expedition - - -