Everest | 1985 S Col-SE Ridge

A Norway expedition to Everest in 1985 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Arne Naess. Summit reached on 21st April 1985. 22 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 495
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER85102
Peak ID EVER
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Norway
Leaders Arne Naess
Sponsor Arne Naess Spring 1985 Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 68th-70th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Sweden, UK, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-03-14
Summit Date 1985-04-21
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 38
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1985-04-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 9
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 22
Summit Hired 8
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/03,5400m),C1(25/03,6100m),C2(31/03,6400m),C3(07/04,7300m),C4(18/04,8000m),Smt(21,29-30/04)
Route Notes BC at usual site (Bonington slept at BC ahead of main body to team) C1 at top of icefall C2 at standard site C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at Col amoung all the other debris. Icefall really bad: dry, very broken and a lot of movement. Some narrow escapes. Lhotse face also dry, lot of bare ice. Climb went very smoothly. Strong and big Sherpa team and good weather (no bad weather - very little snowfall and little wind at lower altitude while establishing route). 1st summit bid reached Col past South Summit 19 April (Hoibakk, Einang, Nesheim, Ang Rita and Pema Dorje), then tents "wiped" out by wind and next summit party had to bring up new tents. Havard in tent at C1 blown into base tent there, a narrow miss from being sent downwards. All tents at C3 when unoccupied and C2 again unoccupied blown away. Bonington - 10 May 85 Hoibakk was strongest member of Norwegians; groups went amazingly well at very high altitude carrying same load. Bass's survival touch and go and Breashears really extended - pushed too fast. Bass's being on mountain only 12 days is surely a record (Messner was at 6500m a long time in 1980). Bass has an exceptional physique: mind and muscle with very positive up beat mind and goes very well at altitude and that combination got him through. Norwegian Everest press conference - 8 May 85 Naess: expedition planned in '78 Norwegian members the best they are in Norway success due to: - very good planning - excellent equipment - very good team - "finest Sherpa team that has even been assembled on one expedition and relatively could not have been better - absolutely excellent LO - "Sungdare is exceptionally strong Sherpa, very intelligent was tremendous feel for mountains. - when 1st team failed was worried of course about success - one alway is When Sungdare, Ang Rita and Myrer-Lund fixed rope on Lhotse face they had done important job. Most memorable day: when I was on top, I don't have all that much power to feel it. When I came down to BC to digest it - it takes a few days to realize it everything went so well in every respect, it was a tremendous satisfaction. Ang Rita climbed entirely without oxygen. Mrs Schmatz 100-150m above C4 - no doubt it was she On summit saw 2 prayer flags frozen in snow Bonington: "Next one of sadness because so many of my friends have been on summit and contentment." "no way - once is enough for me." Will stick to 7000-7500m peaks. "I found it real hard work." Naess: no accident, no yeti Pertemba: "view is much better" this time - "quite happy with all my good friends" Kite-flyer wanted to set a new record - nylon kite - reporter works for Norwegian weekly Naess: The expense this expedition has born for us is something we take with us - especially relationship with Nepalese people. "Cleaning Everest is a dilemma - to what extent are you going to clean and to what extent risk lives." Bass: "I feel great Everest - it's a long way". Wells telephoned and said he cried for joy when he got news of Bass's success. "When you got up there you're not thinking much about anything else," but did think of Wells and Thapa. "It brings to a close a chapter of my life, the 7 summits odyssey." "Hardest part of climb is above where I got in 1983 - its a big mountain up there". "All it takes is one slip, no question of any arrest. Bass: Threw over into Tibet a postcard a rock from Everest in plastic bag to Marty Hoey who got him into mountaineering. We didn't have the manpower of the party the day before which why took us longer. 4 years in mountaineering scene. On top was going to thank Creator and dedicate his ascent to all plus 50's in world who share with me that the 2nd half of life can and should be the best as so well expressed in Jennison's Poem "Ulysses" (strong in will seek to find, etc.) gotten of the mountain alive Bass - 7 May 85 "I'm glad to have gotten off the mountain alive." So slow descending cause oxygen ran out of apparently leaky bottle not long after started down and used David's remaining supply. That too ran out before they reached bottle they had dumped while on their way up. Hadn't been on mountain long enough for thorough acclimatization. Hillary - 5 May 85 I was thrilled to bits when he got to top - if anyone deserved to get to the top at 200 it was CB because of the many considerable contributions he'd made to Himalayan mountaineering and mountaineering in general. Must have been a good season, must have been well organized, had good luck with weather and I guess they're a pretty good team. Dick Bass tremendous drive to get to the top of Everest - getting on the years for climbing Everest and making last desperate attempt - stretched himself to the limit nad was necessary for others pretty remarkable that he persisted. Pretty remarkable effort for a man of his years and with no real mountaineering background to reach the top. I doubt I have been capable of climbing Everest at 55! - also would not have had 2 energetic assistants to help me up - whose job it was to get Bass to the top after more than 100 people have been up the same route we did, people know virtually every proble they will meet, though it still pretty hard work, its more a matter of routine than it was in the earlier days - but its a long way. Nors Larsen - 3 May 85 Breashears had to give his oxygen at top to Bass who was feeling very bad. Bass could not walk down, sat and slid down. Did not make movies on top because too tired. Yesterday too hard to carry gear to BC. Today to Pheriche - all members (above from Aasheim) Banskota, Tourism - 29 April 55 This morning 4 members and 4 Sherpas left from C4 towards summit at 2:00 am: Naess, Hoibakk, Nesheim, Aasheim, Pema Dorje, Sungdare, Ang Rita, Chowang Rinzing (38). Seen with binoculars and near Hillary Step 9:15 am going towards top from C2 at 10:30 am, 2 pm coming down from Step. Bass, Breashears and Sherpa reached C4 yesterday evening. Today stay at C4. Weather today fair in am at 12 noon cloudy. Banskota - 3:00 pm Summit at 9:25 am - had started from C4 1:15 am - all same as earlier given - spent 45 minutes on top and hoisted flags. Aasheim tried to fly kite at top but too low winds. Returned C4 12:00 and 12:30 pm. Pema Dorje was back. 4 Sherpas will stay at C4 tonight and members to lower camps today. Banskota, Tourism - 26 April 85 Naess, Aasheim, Hoibokk, Nesheim, Sungdare, Ang Rita, Pema Dorje, Chowang Rinji intend to go to C3 from C2 tomorrow and to C4 day after if weather good and make summit bid 29 April. Dick Bass and David Breashears and one Sherpa intend to go to C4 from C2 Sunday if weather good and to top also on 29 April. Today Bonington, Myrer-Lund and Reese (photographer) left BC for Pheriche for rest weather today snowing at BC and above. Route from BC to C2 partially collapsed and they are repairing it today. Shyam, Tourism - 23 April 85 As of 11:00 am: 7:00 am today Harvard and David Breashears left BC for C2. Naess, Nasheim, Stein, Stokke and Sungdare are at C3. Because of strong wind did not leave C3 for C4 today. Bass at C3 yesterday - today to C2. Summit party reached BC yesterday - all are well. Banskota, Tourism - 19 April 85 1st party reached C4 yesterday and made camp there. Today at 4:00 am from C4 and reached South 11:00 am. Because strong wind return C4 and are coming to C2 Today. No mention whether will try again. 2nd group are C3 today and to C4 tomorrow for top day after tomorrow. Shrestha, Tourism - 10 April 85 Sungdare, Ang Rita, Bonington and Myrelund started from C3 to Col yesterday. 2 Sherpas reached Col and fixed ropes up to there, but other 2 reached just below col. All 4 returned to C2 yesterday and to go to BC today for rest. Weather BC sunny with strong wind this morning. Intend to establish C4 within 3 days from today. Bass - 28 March 85 Kwangde } Parcharmo } spend April climbing thes three peaks Lobuche East } Go to BC about 6 or 7 April to drop gear and spend night at Gorak Shep. Go down to Ghat to south side of Kwangde, then up to Thami to Parcharmo. Finally up Bhote Kosi and to Gokyo and Chola to Lobuche East. Return to Everest BC 1 May or so. Hope Norwegians finished 7-10 May so can go to Kala Pattar or even C2 for visit. Then in summit push hope to go up from BC quickly. BC to C2 in 1 day, spend 1 day C2, C2 to C4 1 day, top next day weather permitting including on trekking peaks. Will established own C2 but use Norwegians C3 and C4. Like to be on top by 15-20 May. Depending on Norwegians and to be present at his 35th Yale reunion on 30 May - 2 June. Will come back to Everest again if doesn't get to top this time. Ang Rita's use of Oxygen - Spring 1985: Ang Rita and the American David Breashears were together on the Norwegian expedition led by Arne Naess: Ang Rita went to the top on 29 April, and Breashears the next day. In a letter to me dated 2 July, Breashears wrote, "During my ascent of Everest in 1985 with the Norwegian Expedition, I was once again on the South Col with Ang Rita, although we did not share a tent this time (as they had before summiting on 7 May, 1983). I visited his tent several times to speak with him and his tentmate, Stein Aasheim. Both Stein and Ang Rita used oxygen for sleeping before and after the ascent. As on his ascent in 1983, Ang Rita spent the summit day without the use of supplemental oxygen. "Please keep in mind that I present these facts to you for the purpose of keeping the record straight. I don't believe that Ang Rita would deny the above (which he has done several times since 1987), or that it matters to him. I can't think of a stronger climbing companion or a Sherpa for whom I have more respect than Ang Rita, and he did climb Everest in 1984 with the Czech expedition without any use of oxygen whatsoever." On 17 October, 1988, Breashears told me that in 1985 again Ang Rita slept on oxygen, but he found the oxygen equipment too heavy to carry and so did not climb with it.
Accidents Unoccupied tents at C3 and again at C2 blown away
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448297
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

22 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kjell Torgeir Stokke M 1942 Norway Exp Doctor Oslo, Norway Physician Details Other expeditions
Stein P. Aasheim M 1950 Norway Climber Oslo, Norway Journalist Details Other expeditions
Richard Daniel (Dick) Bass M 1929 USA Climber Dallas, Texas Oil geologist Details Other expeditions
Christian John Storey (Chris) Bonington M 1934 UK Climber Hesket Newmarket, Cumbria, England Alpinist Details Other expeditions
David Finlay Breashears M 1955 USA Climber Newton, Massachusetts Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Ola Magne Einang M 1946 Norway Climber Vartdal, Norway Alpine guide & teacher Details Other expeditions
Odd Eliassen M 1944 Norway Climber Ostenotad, Norway Master carpenter Details Other expeditions
Ralph Hoibakk M 1937 Norway Climber Oslo, Norway Computer specialist Details Other expeditions
Frode Holst M 1950 Norway Climber Oslo, Norway Journalist Details Other expeditions
Carl Christian Larsson M 1952 Sweden BC Manager London, England Shipbroker Details Other expeditions
Bjorn Age Myrer-Lund M 1952 Norway Climber Oslo, Norway Student Details Other expeditions
Arne Ludwig R. Naess Jr. M 1937 Norway Leader London, England Shipping executive Details Other expeditions
Havard Nesheim M 1956 Norway Climber Tromso, Norway Physician Details Other expeditions
Bjorn Reese M 1935 Norway Climber Hskei, Norway Photographer Details Other expeditions
Pertemba Sherpa M 1948 Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje (Ang Lhakpa) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Dawa Norbu Sherpa M 1957 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Sungdare Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Pema Dorje Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Chowang Rinzi Sherpa M 1949 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER85102 AAJ Bonington, Chris - - 60:225-226 (1986) -
EVER85102 - Bass, Dick & Wells, Frank Seven Summits Warner Books, New York - B156
EVER85102 HJ Bonington, Chris A Personal Everest - 42:1-6 (1984-1985) -
EVER85102 - Naess, Arne Drommen om Everest Ernst G. Mortensens, Oslo - N07
EVER85102 MM - - - 103:12 (May 1985) -
EVER85102 - Bonington, Chris Chris Bonington's Everest Weidenfeld & Nicolson, London - -
EVER85102 IM Bonington, Chris Personal Best - 17:47-51 (Spring 1986) -
EVER85102 HMJ Bonington, Chris Norwegian Everest Expedition 1985 - 16:48-51 (1985-1986) -
EVER85102 - Bonington, Chris The Everest Years Hodder & Stoughton, London - B468
EVER85102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198622502/Asia-Nepal-Everest - - -
EVER85102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/1/a-personal-everest-2/ - - -