Everest | 1985 SW Face (Bonington rte)

A S Korea expedition to Everest in 1985 via SW Face (Bonington rte), led by Park Young-Bae. Summit reached on 13th January 1986. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 430
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER85404
Peak ID EVER
Year 1985
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face (Bonington rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Park Young-Bae
Sponsor 1985-86 Korean Winter Everest SW Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-12-11
Summit Date 1986-01-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1986-01-16
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7700m due to lack of supplies and men exhausted
High Point (m) 7700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/12,5250m),C1(15/12,6115m),C2(25/12,6515m),C3(07/01,7010m),C4(14/01,7225m),xxx(13,15/01,7700m)
Route Notes BC at usual site C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Cwm (after many loads brought up) C3 on SW Face (at noly place there in for one tent) C4 on SW Face (same place as 1975 autumn) High point at C5 site. At end of climb only Kim and Um left. At C2 on 15th night one tent blown 50m and all gear destroyed there. 2 men not properly clothed, huddled together, in morning found boots and other protective materials and "escaped" down to BC safely; climbing finished. On 15 Jan Kim and Um to the highest point at 7700m; above this needed rock equipment they did not have with them for difficult rock above and winds strong so descended without establishing C5. By now others down with injured Sherpa and many tents broken, food depleted and not all members able to go to high altitude. By 16 Jan all in BC except Kim and Um. Very little snow on face. Studied Bonington's book to learn camp sites. 1 Sherpa broke leg 15 Jan and members down with him. Had been hit by falling stone while descending from C3. Much falling stone, some carried sideways by wind. No other problems. Expedition climbed late because sea freight arrived late. Should have started sooner, had more equipment and food, and 1 or 2 more Sherpas even when not having to establish Icefall route. Kim Ki-Heyg (W Ridge leader) - 24 Dec 85 Kim met SW Face leader at Gorak Shep on 14 Dec. Only 3 members at BC by then and they had only few loads there.
Accidents 1 Sherpa broke leg & members down with him had been hit by falling stone while descending from C3; much falling stone, some carried sideways by wind; no other problems
Achievement 1st winter attempt on face
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448564
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face (bonington rte)

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sung-Whan Han M 1957 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kye-Jo Chung M 1956 S Korea Climber Gang Reung, Gangwon, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jong-Duk Do M 1953 S Korea Climber Incheon, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bo-Youl Kim M 1961 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hwan-Jung Kim M 1959 S Korea Exp Doctor Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Physician Details Other expeditions
Young-Bok Kim M 1956 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Young-Bae Park M 1948 S Korea Leader Choun, Incheon, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bong-Jun Seo M 1953 S Korea Deputy Leader Jeju (Cheju), S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jimbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Hong-Gil Um M 1960 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER85404 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:228-229 (1986) -
EVER85404 MM - - - 110:10 (Jul 1986) -
EVER85404 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198622803/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Southwest-Face-Winter-Attempt - - -