Everest | 1984 S Col-SE Ridge
A India expedition to Everest in 1984 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Darshan Kumar Khullar. Summit reached on 9th May 1984. 31 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 502 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER84102 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1984 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | India |
| Leaders | Darshan Kumar Khullar |
| Sponsor | Darshan Kumar Khullar Spring 1984 Everest Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 62nd,63rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1984-03-16 |
| Summit Date | 1984-05-09 |
| Summit Time | 1230 |
| Summit Days | 54 |
| Total Days | 72 |
| Termination Date | 1984-05-27 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 24 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 40 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 2 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(16/03,5350m),C1(05/04,6095m),C2.ABC(09/04,6585m),C3(12/04,7315m),C4(29/04,7985m),C5(08/05,8475m),Smt(09,23/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at usual site. 9th May was 1st attempt; three set out from C5 at 6:45 am (Phu Dorjee, Ang Dorje and Rita Gombu) and Ang Dorje and Rita Gombu reached 100m below South Summit when at about 8:00 am. Ang Dorje's feet very cold and he feared frostbite. Phu Dorjee was 100 ft above them in high winds (70-80 km). Rita Gombu decided to turn back in winds. Phu Dorjee on top at 12:30 pm (without oxygen from last 200m only). All slept on Col that night. Phu Dorjee overtook Bulgarians at about 10:15 am and Indians put up 1st Bulgarians team at Col camp and brought Metodi Savov to C2, etc, spending 2 days Indian manpower resources. 2nd attempt was Nima Dorje (ND) Sherpa's party at col for May 9th attempt, but Bachendri Pal got to Col late and Bulgarians needed help, so Khullar called it off. 3rd attempt by Palzor, Lathoo, Rekha Sharma and Rattan Singh, latter fearing frostbite turned back, winds prevented on early start 16 May and avalanche of 15/16 May hit 4th summit party and required rescue. 4th party was ND Sherpa, Lobsang Tshering and Bachendri Pal. 5th party went to top from Col. Its final membership was determined at Col and were the 4 summiters of 23 May. 1 Sherpa killed by avalanche in Icefall from Lho La on 26 March and cremated. Rai kitchen boy died of altitude sickness on 28 March while only one advance party man was at BC and he descending to Lobuche alone. Avalanche ice blocks of 15/16 May midnight buried C3 and of 3 members and 7 Sherpas, 3 Sherpas seriously injured (Bachendri was there). Rekha Sharma fell in crevasse in Icefall but 3 days later was back in C1. No frostbite at all. Khullar - 5 June 1984 Three bodies seen by Everest expedition on the mountain: 1) At bottom of SW Face: upper torso bare skin and bone, dark brown hair perhaps shoulder length or shorter - definitely that of a woman. C2 cook Ang Tshering said he removed wrist watch. Khullar buried remains under pile of stones. 2) On SW Face at about 22,000 ft, 200 ft above bergschrund spread-eagled body, flat on face, red jacket, black hair - rather prominently visable. 3) On face between S Pillar and SE Ridge at about 28,000 ft (just above Indians C5). Tall figure apparently recent victim - easily seen. Sarin - 2 June 1984 (press conference) Bachendri Pal is first single woman to top of Everest Ang Dorje is first man to go to top with woman twice Rita Gombu reached 100m short of South Summit Phu Dorjee started without oxygen 100m below South Summit, rare to carry on top when oxygen stops. Palzor without oxygen from top throughout descent No member had any experience of Nepal mountains Bachendri Pal: Took to summit start of Durga and Indian Flag. Left statue there after prayers and flag on it brought ice (now water) and stone from summit. Lhatoo and Ang Dorje found top of Chinese tripod. Lhatoo found pouch containing a photo of man with inscriptions. Khullar: Near C2 body found with little skin, long dark hair, no clothing, at 21,800 ft. Another body 27,000 ft, 100m below South Summit, blue jacket. Was slower than others when carrying 2 oxygen bottles. Dumped one and caught up then had another problem - descended with the others. Had prayed for a year for Everest and will continue to do so "as Buddhist considers highest peak sacred." Was inspired by fellow Ladakhi who went to top in 1965. 6 am made 3 attempts to go top that did not succeed. One was in C3 when avalanche struck. 1st attempt was on 5 May. Logistics prevented more successes after the two. Expedition not ready to recon thru Icefall until 5-6 April after avalanche. 10 days delay by avalanche of March 26th. All of May was good weather and 23 May was best of all. 4 women reached South Col - this a record. Rekha Sharma's party called down from Col, thus being prevented from going to top because support below diverted to evacuation of Sherpa with broken leg from C3 after avalanche struck, winds were preventing them to go up after 1st night at Col and should not stay longer. Rekha Sharma - 2 June 1984 Khullar was just as weak and unassertive on the climb as he is in KTM. Supply problems were considerable - "it was just chaos." Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 16 May 1984 C3 hit by avalanche 00:35 hours, ND Sherpa and 3 Nepalese Sherpas (no names) hit and seriously injured. Lobsang Tshering and Bachendri Pal escaped unharmed; some other Nepal Sherpas minor injury and shock. Summit party: Rekha, Lhatoo, Rattan Singh and Sonam Palzor called back from South Col to C2. At 11:45 am leader told them to come to C2. Had not started up from Col. Left Col at 12:00 to come down. RO helicopter rescue tomorrow am from BC for ND Sherpa and 2 of Nepal Sherpas who will reach BC today. 1 of these Sherpas has fractured leg moving to C1 from C2 and will not be available for helicopter. ND Sherpa has ribs injured and 2 injured Nepal Sherpas head injuries. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 15 May 1984 Lhatoo, Rattan Singh, Rekha and Palzor reached South Col today and tomorrow hope to go for top from Col another team reached C3. Entire expedition leaves BC 27 May. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 10 May 1984 Prem Chand, Bissa, Aitward Pal, Lhatoo, Dorjee and Ratan Singh to BC today. Phu Dorjee, Rita Gombu and Ang Dorje coming to C2 from South Col today with 4 Bulgarians. Yesterday at 10:45 am Phu Dorjee going up met 2 Bulgarians Savov and Valtchev coming down from summit (Bulgarians ahd gone up via W Ridge but down SE Ridge). Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1984 No contact with summit and South Col parties since this morning. Leader is in C2 and at C2 and BC keeping radio open. Weather at BC partly cloudy. Next contact at 4:00 pm today with KTM. Banskota, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1984 Phu Dorjee climbed alone to Everest top 12:30 today without oxygen after South Summit. At present at South Col in good physical condition. Rita Gombu and Ang Dorje reached South Summit but descended after oxygen complication. They are also in South Col camp. Phu Dorjee met Bulgarian summiters - where when and how many not stated. Weather at BC cloudy. Banskota, Tourism Ministry- 6 May 1984 3 summit parties left BC yesterday - these people will attempt top via Col 1st party: Prem Chand Miss Rita Gombu Sirdar Ang Dorje 2nd: Phu Dorjee Miss Chandra 3rd: N. D. Sherpa (Indian) Magar Miss Bachendri Pal Lobsang Tshering Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 6 May 1984 Bulgarian and Indian Everest teams jointly requested HMG permission for 2 Indian members to use W Ridge. Members to use South Col route both up and down (not traverse). Requested 3 May and granted 4 May. Indians to send Lhatoo Dorje and Rattan Singh via W Ridge. Bulgarians to send Kantcho Kantchev Dolaptchiev and Trifon Ivanov Djambazov via South Col. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 17 April 1984 Today 17 April 2 members and 6 Sherpas reached C2 and going up to open route to South Col. Route to Col likely to open on 22 April and to concentrate in BC 23 April for summit bid 30 April. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry- 11 April 1984 C2 established at 6460m 9 April. Today Sonam Palzor, Miss Aitwal, Rekha Sharma and 23 Sherpas left BC for C1. Down from C1 to BC Magan Bissa and Phu Dorjee (Bissa to KTM - leave BC 12 April). Major Inder Kumar, Major Jai Bahugana, Lobsang Tshering and 5 Sherpas to C2 from C1 today. Weather good today. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 27 March 1984 5 Nepalese Sherpas while carrying loads BC to C1 hit by avalanche, 26 March at 08:08 am in Icefall. Ang Rinji Sherpa, 49, of Rimijung village, dead; body to BC (when not said). Kami Tshering and Lhakpa Dorje seriously injured; Sona Temba and Kami Nuru slightly injured. Helicopter requested for injured - trying for tomorrow. At time of avalanche Dorje Lhatoo and Dr. Minoo Mehta were in icefall with 5 Nepalese but not hurt. |
| Accidents | Avalanche iceblocks of May 15-16 midnight buried C3, 3 members and 7 Sherpas seriously injured; Rekha Sharma fell across in icefall; Sherpa killed in avalanche on Lho La |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447949 |
| Year | 1984 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
31 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Meena Agarwal | F | 1943 | India | Exp Doctor | Bombay, India | Pediatric surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Chandra Prabha Aitwal | F | 1941 | India | Climber | Uttarkashi, UP, India | Teacher, high school | Details Other expeditions |
| Jai Vardhan Bahuguna | M | 1948 | India | Climber | Dehradun, UP, India | Major, Infantry's Paracommandos | Details Other expeditions |
| Harshvanti Bisht | F | 1954 | India | Climber | Kotdwara, UP, India | Teacher, economics | Details Other expeditions |
| Magan Mal Bissa | M | 1954 | India | Climber | Bikaner, Rajasthan, India | Freelance mountaineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Rita Gombu | F | 1957 | India | Climber | Darjeeling, India | Air India traffic assistant | Details Other expeditions |
| Darshan Kumar Khullar | M | 1941 | India | Leader | Bassi Pathanan, Punjab, India | Colonel, Artillery & Principal, Himalayan Mountain Institute | Details Other expeditions |
| Kiran Inder Kumar | M | 1945 | India | Climber | Udhampur, J&K, India | Major, Infantry's Paracommandos | Details Other expeditions |
| Dorje Lhatoo Sherpa | M | 1945 | India | Climber | Darjeeling, India | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Minoo Mehta | M | - | India | Exp Doctor | Poona, Maharashtra, India | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Bachendri Pal | F | 1954 | India | Climber | Makur, Uttarkashi, UP, India | Teacher, physical education | Details Other expeditions |
| Phu Dorjee Sherpa | M | 1949 | India | Climber | Gangtok, Sikkim, India | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Sharavati (Sharu) Prabhu | F | 1959 | India | Climber | Bombay, India | Junior executive (Tata Oil Mills) | Details Other expeditions |
| Prem Chand Dogra | M | 1942 | India | Deputy Leader | Kulu, HP, India | Lieutenant Colonel (Dogra Regiment) | Details Other expeditions |
| Sonam Palzor Sarapa | M | 1944 | India | Climber | Leh, J&K, India | Company commander of Indian Border Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Rekha Sharma | F | 1959 | India | Climber | New Delhi, India | Unemployed | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Dorje (N. D.) Sherpa | M | 1948 | India | Climber | Darjeeling, India | Army non-commissioned officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Rattan Singh | M | 1953 | India | Climber | Soni, Tehri Garhwal, India | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| T. Sridharan | M | 1951 | India | Radio Operator | Koranad, Mayuram, Tamil Nadu, India | Flight Lieutenant in Air Force | Details Other expeditions |
| Lobsang Tshering Bhotia | M | 1952 | India | Climber | Darjeeling, India | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Thamo, Khumbu | High-altitude porter | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Rinji Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Rimijung (Phakding), Khumbu | High-altitude porter | Details Other expeditions |
| Jangbir Rai | M | - | Nepal | Kitchen Boy | Rumjatar Village, Okhaldhunga | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Deepak Haldankar | M | 1947 | India | Film Team | New Delhi, India | Cinematographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Siddharth Kak | M | 1947 | India | Film Team | Bombay, India | Film-maker | Details Other expeditions |
| Nandha Kumar Krishan Murty | M | 1953 | India | Film Team | New Delhi, India | Sound recordist | Details Other expeditions |
| Sanjeev Saith | M | 1958 | India | Film Team | New Delhi, India | Cinematographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kami Tshering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sona Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kami Nuru Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
9 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER84102 | AAJ | Khullar, D. K. | - | - | 59:261 (1985) | - |
| EVER84102 | HJ | Khullar, Col. D. K. | Indian Everest Expedition 1984 | - | 41:20-29 (1983-1984) | - |
| EVER84102 | - | Khullar, D. K. | The Call of Everest | Vision Books, New Delhi | - | K161 |
| EVER84102 | MM | - | - | - | 99:8 (Sep 1984) | - |
| EVER84102 | - | Pal, Bachendri | Everest, My Journey to the Top | National Book Trust, New Delhi | - | P11 |
| EVER84102 | IM | Khullar, D. K. | Indian Everest Expedition 1984 | - | 14:37-59 (Autumn 1984) | - |
| EVER84102 | HMJ | Khullar, D. K. | Indian Everest Expedition - 84 | - | 15:58-78 (1983-84) | - |
| EVER84102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198526101/Asia-Nepal-Everest | - | - | - |
| EVER84102 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/41/4/indian-everest-expedition-1984/ | - | - | - |