Everest | 1983 N Face (Hornbein Couloir)

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1983 via N Face (Hornbein Couloir), led by Michiko Takahashi. Summit reached on 9th December 1983. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 425
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83402
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 4
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Michiko Takahashi
Sponsor Kamoshika Dojin Everest N Face Winter 1983-84
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-10-21
Summit Date 1983-12-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 49
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8100m due to high winds
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 13
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/10,5620m),C1(26/10,6170m),C2(05/11,6900m),C3(17/11,7700m),xxx(09/12,8100m)
Route Notes BC at Rongbuk C1 at Central Rongbuk Glacier. Yasuhira Saito (Gaurishankar) - 4 Aug 1984 Saito was member of expedition. Climb abandoned at bottom of Hornbein Couloir. No place for tent in winds and rock fall danger. Very cold very strong winds, 3 Japanese and 1 Chinese frostbitten but none very serious. When team arrived at BC mountain was white, but slowly became blacker and blacker. Mrs Takahashi returns to attempt in winter 1985-86 (postponed from this winter). Team used 13 Chinese "assistants" above BC. Michiko Takahashi is also known by her maiden name, Michiko Imai, leader 1979 autumn Dhaulagiri II-III-IV-V traverse.
Accidents 3 members and 1 Chinese member frostbitten
Achievement -
Agency Express
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447796
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face (hornbein couloir)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michiko Takahashi F 1942 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yasuhira Saito M 1953 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Assistant cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83402 AAJ - - - 58:311 (1984) -
EVER83402 MM - - - 96:10 (Mar 1984) -
EVER83402 MM - - - 97:11 (May 1984) -
EVER83402 IWA - - - 105:196 (1984) -
EVER83402 IWA - - - 105:26 (1984) -
EVER83402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198431103/Asia-China-Mount-Everest-Winter-Attempt-from-Tibet - - -