Everest | 1996 S Plr-S Col-SE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)

A Sweden expedition to Everest in 1996 via S Plr-S Col-SE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down), led by Goran Kropp. Summit reached on 23rd May 1996. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1739
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER96119
Peak ID EVER
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Plr-S Col-SE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Sweden
Leaders Goran Kropp
Sponsor Sweden Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 242 w/Spa
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-11
Summit Date 1996-05-23
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 42
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1996-05-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/04,5300m),Biv(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),Biv(7200m),C3(02/05,7750m),C4(03/05,7900m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
Route Notes C2 in Cwm Biv at only time C3 on South Pillar (top of Pillar) C4 at Col (other people's tents). Made on route through icefall to left of general route and pitched C1 near most others; was fairly easy except for 10m vertical section and 10m rock scrambling. Had only one tent so used its cover as shelter at BC and inner tent carried with him. Biv at same altitude as others and used 3-4 ladders placed by others between C1 and C2. Up from C2 site to 7150m to acclimatize but not slept there; next day to 7200m also only to acclimatize but slept there and day after down and rested at BC. Then Kropp and 2 Martinez brothers up to 7850m together and shared Kropp's big tent. 3rd May Jose did not go up higher while Kropp and Jesus went higher and reached South Col, having left biv at 7850m at 1:23 pm in perfect weather; went on normal route and 8300m Jesus retreated while Kropp all alone to 8000m at 2:00 pm making tracks in knee-deep snow without oxygen and turned back - saw where he was but decided too late to go up. Going back to South Col thinking to enter other's tent but wind dropped and was able to return to tent left at 7850m - "was completely exhausted", so stayed at 7850m till 4th May (Spaniards descended on 5th). Wanted to reach summit with all his own food (had food for only one summit bid) but "failed in this." In BC ate film crew's food now onwards, not own food. Exhausted when arrived there on 7th - then had to wait for good weather. Left BC for 2nd summit attempt 17th May to C2 by own route by Jesus and Kropp. 18th left tent at C2 and next to Col via pillar route - now very windy and need Taiwanese tent at col. 21st down to C2 because winds too strong on 19th to 20th to go to top. 22nd from C2 to Col via pillar. 23rd Kropp, Jesus and Ang Rita, who had been with film crew now joined Kropp's climb and went to col via normal route; left col 1:00 am and climbed behind IMAX team, who were using oxygen. Reached summit at 12:30 (Ang Rita), at 1:00 (Kropp), 12:35 (Martinez). Kropp afraid of his reaction to high altitude (seeing stars) and left very soon afterwards, reached Col just after 4:00 pm having several bouts of diarrhea; all 3 stayed at Col that night using South African tents. 24th down to C2 via normal route, Kropp 3-4 hours later than Jesus and Ang Rita. 25th to BC. Used Duff fixed ropes on pillar when had ice. "Think this is my last expedition to 8000m peak" (had 3 before). "Have climbed Everest in this style and K2 and Broad Peak very quickly as no need to play with my good luck" to try for more of them - wants lower and more technical mountains in future. Will return to Stockholm by his bicycle, which is now parked at Jiri. Since he flew to KTM from Syangboche, he plans to fly to SYB after about 2 weeks, walk with kit to Jiri and return on bicycle. Expects to return to Stockholm end of September. Kropp left Stockholm 16 Oct '95 on bicycle (special bike with 24 gears to Gorakpur; after 11,000 km gears broken and had 8 gears only (at high range) after that. Goes back with replacement bike. Brought 80 kg of all high altitude foods, tents, etc. (all he needs on mountain). To Jiri on old bike and then walks pulling by himself the one-wheel wagon he bought from Sweden. Then climbs Lobuche (trekking peak) to acclimatize so as to go through Khumbu Icefall only 2-3 times. Kropp climbs alone but six other people one as his permit and will also be on the pillar. Believes he is doing Everest in a new way including his solo trip from and to Sweden: "its not just the climbing." Has 45 days of food for mountain.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Peak Promotion
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452448
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s plr-s col-se ridge (up); se ridge-s col (down)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Fredick Blomquist M 1969 Sweden Climber Jonkoping, Smaland, Sweden Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Goran Kropp M 1966 Sweden Leader Jonkoping, Smaland, Sweden Alpinist, instructor, lecturer & writer on climbing Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER96119 AAJ Kropp, Goran - - 71:299 (1997) -
EVER96119 AAJ Sherpa, Ang Rita - - 71:300 (1997) -
EVER96119 - Kropp, Goran & Lagercrantz, David Goran Kropp Bokforlaget, Sweden - -
EVER96119 - Kropp, Goran & Lagercrantz, David Ultimate High Discovery Books, New York - -
EVER96119 HIGH - - - 167:72 (Oct 1996) -
EVER96119 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199729903/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-From-Sweden-by-Bicycle - - -
EVER96119 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199730003/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Tenth-Ascent-by-an-Individual - - -