Everest | 1990 S Col-SE Ridge

A France expedition to Everest in 1990 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Marc Batard. Summit reached on 5th October 1990. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 729
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90309
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Marc Batard
Sponsor French International Everest-Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 112 w/USA,113 w/SKor
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-09-04
Summit Date 1990-10-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 31
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 15
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Batard to Xixabangma for acclimatization (reached 7600m)
Campsites BC(04/09,5300m),C1(08/09,6100m),C2(09/09,6400m),C3(13/09,7300m),C4(23/09,7900m),Smt(05-06/10)
Route Notes C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Members reached S Col 18th Sept but slept in for first time on 23rd. Batard by helicopter to Gorak Shep 19th Sept and started up from BC 22nd and slept in C2. 23rd to S Col but windy and snowing and down to BC same day. [1st summit attempt by Tournaire, Janin, Pelle, Decamp failed at 8300m on 22nd]. 2 days to Lobuche to meet Italian research group there and they tested him and decided to collaborate about physchological testing and Batard use of radio. 27th back to BC. 29th Batard left BC to climb direct to top in one night and day; this day others were at S Col now (Christine Janin, Erik Decamp, Pascal Tournaire, Bernard Germain, Bruno Gallet, Olivier Besson and 4 Sherpas). Batard reached C2 by 9:30 pm but windy and cloudy so at 11:00 pm decided to wait in C2. At 3:00 am awoke and started up at 3:15 am; at 7000m Decamp told him by radio weather too bad and Batard turned around and was back in BC same day. 3rd Oct Batard from BC to C2 for 2 nights waiting for strong wind to ease, as it did on full moon day/night of 4th Oct. From C3 at 6:30 am on 5th and on summit 4:50 pm of 5th. Christine and Pascal also from C3 at 2:30 pm and Batard met them at Col and (Pascal just above Col); Christine on oxygen from Col, Pascal from 7500m and all 3 to summit together. 3 stayed at top together 10 mins in very cold and windy weather. Batard began digging snow cave 2m below summit on west side. Batard very tired at 8500m and above and at 3:00 pm started freezing fingers and nose (was not on oxygen at all) and "when I reached the top I was not so good." 1 hr to dig cave and was inside 6:00 to 6:30 pm; "too much risk, is better to go back"; returned to Col at 9:00 pm and stayed there that night. 6th Oct at 7 am left Col and 4:30 pm at Lobuche. 6th Oct Annie Dubois tried for summit (with Veronique Perillat of Annie Beghin's team) from C2 but turned back after 2 hrs [from below C3]. 6th Oct "Babu" Sherpa who had waited at Col for Batard for Lhotse, went to Everest summit alone at 9:00 am with oxygen. Batard wants to try Everest-Lhotse next spring or autumn of necessary and use oxygen from 8500m to top and digging cave (but not sleeping or probably not descending). Disappointed not to have succeeded in this time, but "I am prudent." One-legged member LeBissonnais reached S Col. Batard did not oxygen at any time on ascent or descent. Regarding [physical] quarrel with Sherpani, see Batard's "declaration" in his Everest spring 1991 file. Batard - 17 Dec 1990 "Huyberechts claimed he failed to reach summit because all tents taken down, but actually this not true - he was too slow - he has since retracted this claim." Ministry of Tourism - 5 Oct 1990 Top 11:00 am today - Nawang Thile Sherpa, 40 - Sonam Tendu Sherpa, 29 - Erik Decamp, 36 started at 3:00 am from C4, stayed on top 1 hour On top 4:30 pm - Batard, 38, mountain guide - Pascal Tournaire, 31 - Christine Janin, doctor, 33 Batard - 18 Sept 1990 Returned from Xixabangma 17 Sept without success; reached 7600m and then too much snow (all other members stayed at Xixa). Batard goes by helicopter from KTM tomorrow morning to BC. His team of Sherpas, Decamp and Michel Pollet have made the way to the Col already and "if the weather is good I start up after tomorrow. I need 3 days of good weather." If successful, goes quickly to KTM and Paris. Batard had gone to Xixabangma for acclimatization reached 7600m there and left Spaniards before their climb finished; arrived KTM 17 Sept to go to KTM.
Accidents Only Batard frostbite nose and finger which will heal
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450340
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marc Marie Bernard Batard M 1951 France Leader Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Olivier Besson M 1962 France Climber Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maurice Brisard M 1942 France Exp Doctor Papeete, Tahiti Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Erik Decamp M 1954 France Climber Le Champ-pres-Froges, Isere, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christine De Colombel F 1943 France Journalist Paris, France Editor & publisher Details Other expeditions
Annie Dubois F 1947 France Climber Feternes, Haute-Savoie, France Kindergarten teacher & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Bruno Gallet M 1947 France Climber Avignon, Vaucluse, France Architect & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bernard Germain M 1947 France Climber Reims, Marne, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Karl Huyberechts M 1956 Belgium Climber Overijse, Belgium Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Christine Janin F 1957 France Climber Annecy le Vieux, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Marie-Guislaine Jessenne F 1958 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Yves LeBissonnais M 1961 France Climber Orleans, Loiret, France Agricultural researcher Details Other expeditions
Jean-Marie Montali M 1962 France Journalist Paris, France Journalist Details Other expeditions
Jacqueline Paillet F 1954 France Climber Paris, France Teacher Details Other expeditions
Michel Pelle M 1947 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Philippe Roncin M 1955 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Pierre Alain Royer M 1955 France Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Film director Details Other expeditions
Pascal Pierre Tournaire M 1959 France Climber Paris, France Photographer Details Other expeditions
Nawang Thile (Pemba Dorje) Sherpa M 1953 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Dendu (Sona Dendu) Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Babu Chiri (Babu Tshering) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Chhulemu, Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90309 AAJ Decamp, Eric - - 65:227-228 (1991) -
EVER90309 - Janin, Christine Christine Janin, Premiere Francaise a l'Everest Denoel, Paris - J41
EVER90309 - De Colombel, Christine Everest, L'Impossible Exploit Denoel, Paris - C323
EVER90309 MM - - - 137:8 (Jan 1991) -
EVER90309 - Batard, Marc L'Envers des Cimes De Noel, Paris - -
EVER90309 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122702/Asia-Nepal-Everest-First-Ascent-by-a-French-Woman - - -