Expeditions changes
In the 2018-12-16 release release.
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Changed EVER99107 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99108 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99109 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99110 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99116 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99117 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99122 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99126 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99127 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99130 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99133 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99134 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99135 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99136 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99302 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed EVER99303 (1999) — N Col-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N Col-N RidgeN Col-NE Ridge -
Changed FANG97301 (1997) — E Face-S Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Agency Hyecho Adventure Trekking & MountaineeringHyecho Adventure Trekking -
Changed GAN384302 (1984) — SW Face (basically Polish 1983) 1 field
Field Before After Leaders Richard AllenRick Allen -
Changed GAN506301 (2006) — S Face-NW Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route Notes Most media reports incorrectly state that this team was attempting Ganesh VII, not Ganesh 5. French expedition on Ganesh V - Autumn 2006 … -
Changed GANG15101 (2015) — NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N RidgeNE Ridge -
Changed GANG71101 (1971) — NW Ridge-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 NW RidgeNW Ridge-NE Ridge -
Changed GANG71301 (1971) — W Ridge from S 2 fields
Field Before After Sponsor Nagano Mountaineering AssocNagano Mountaineering Association Accidents 3 members & 5 Sherpas killed by avalanche (or fall)3 members and 5 Sherpas killed by avalanche (or fall) -
Changed GANG81301 (1981) — NW Ridge-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 NW RidgeNW Ridge-NE Ridge -
Changed GANG83302 (1983) — N Face-NE Ridge 2 fields
Field Before After Total Members 910 Route Notes … 16 Oct) at about 5900m. All members well. [Marjan] Novak must go home to his job. -
Changed GANG84401 (1984) — N Face 1 field
Field Before After Sponsor 1984-45 Korean Gangapurna Expedition1984-85 Korean Gangapurna Expedition -
Changed GANG85302 (1985) — E Spur-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 E Spur-N RidgeE Spur-NE Ridge -
Changed GANG86301 (1986) — NW Ridge-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 NW RidgeNW Ridge-NE Ridge -
Changed GANG91301 (1991) — NW Spur-NE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 NW Spur-N RidgeNW Spur-NE Ridge -
Changed GANG91302 (1991) — N Face (to 5900m) 1 field
Field Before After Route 2 NW Spur-N Ridge (to 6400m)NW Spur-NE Ridge (to 6400m) -
Changed GAUR08301 (2008) — E Ridge-SE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Other Summits -Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak)(DOLM-083-01) -
Changed GAUR79101 (1979) — SW Face 1 field
Field Before After Route Notes Al Read, Press conf - 18 May 79 Route = SW Face-SW Ridge very, very long … only to South Summit with another problem ridge otto Main Summit. So took alternative face route which made logistics easier. C3 highest camp but 2'x5' at 21,500 ft … -
Changed GAUR80101 (1980) — SE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Other Summits Summited Tseringma Peak (subpeak of Gaurishankar)Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak) (DOLM-801-01) -
Changed GAUR80301 (1980) — SE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Other Summits -Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak) (DOLM-803-01) -
Changed GAUR84301 (1984) — SE Ridge-S Smt 3 fields
Field Before After Other Summits -Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak)(DOLM-843-01) Route Notes … at S Summit. Climbed only to South Summit. Planned to make temporary C4 under final face on south side of South SummitSummit, but could not make it because very bad … from C2 to BC while other South Summitersstaystayed in C3. 21 Oct all other summiters to BC … go back to work in Japan. To reachMainmain summit would need 4 more days alpine style. … C3 called ridge "hell traverse" because was narrowsaw toothsawtooth with mixed rock, soft snow and ice on its face. Total 8000m fixed rope. Some avalanches came down 7-9 Oct, but no one hit (fell across route aboutBC)BC), but took out some fixed rope. Hamatani altitude …Primary ID -GAUR84301 -
Changed GAUR95301 (1995) — S Face-SE Ridge 2 fields
Field Before After Other Summits -Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak)(DOLM-953-01) Route Notes … on face Biv 2 at same on C1 High point at point 6333m.6333m (Dolma Kang). Before reaching Gyabrug did reach up Tungmarnang Valley … -
Changed GAUS79301 (1979) — SW Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Ascent 1 -1st -
Changed GAUS83301 (1983) — S Face-SW Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Ascent 1 -2nd,3rd -
Changed GAUS84301 (1984) — SE Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Ascent 1 -4th -
Changed GLAC81301 (1981) — SW side 24 fields
Field Before After Route 1 N FaceSW side Nationality ItalyAustria Leaders Gabriele MarzoratiGerwalt Pichler Sponsor Italian Expedition to Glacier DomeAustrian Expedition to Glacier Dome Success 1 TrueFalse Ascent 1 8th- Approach Dumre->Manang- Basecamp Date 1981-10-021981-10-12 Summit Date 1981-10-101981-10-18 Summit Time 1100- Summit Days 86 Total Days 110 Termination Date 1981-10-13- Termination Reason 110 Termination Notes -Abandoned at 5800m because members were commercial clients not capable of climb and route very difficult High Point (m) 70695800 Camps 42 Total Members 616 Summit Members 30 Total Hired 34 Summit Hired 10 O2 Taken FalseTrue Campsites BC(02/10,3830m),C1(04/10,4570m),C2(06/10,5000m),C3(07/10,5460m),C4(09/10,6000m),Smt(10/10)BC(12/10,4300M),C1(13/10,5050m),C2(17/10,5050m),xxx(18/10,5800m)Route Notes ReachedAdisummitWeissensteiner10th- 29 Oct11:00 am by 2 ropes (3 members and Gombu Sherpa).816PichlerItalianswentandwith3 Nepalese climbers to Dumre 22 Sept. Braga 30th Septtrek after4BC.daysAdirain.WeissensteinerHadledto send recce to find route to BC because photos wereclimb ofwrongtotalpeak.of 15 members only. 4 Sherpas above BC BC 4300m - 12 Oct C1 5050m - 13 OctBCPlanned3830mto2use Swedish route but out of question because to dangerous from avalanches and crevasses had opened up widely and glacier ready to fall in on itself. Had acclimatization problem with members who had to go down. Once had gained altitude tried going long way to east and around glacier. Went around and made C2 made at 5450m on 17 Oct. Continued looking for route to avoid dangerous area of glacier. Got stuck in upper glacier and went to pillar found members not prepared for such a climb. Traverse too dangerous and they not acclimatized. 19 Oct stopped attempt. Highest point was 5800m by Adi and Ang Temba on 18 Oct. No accidents. Summit needs experienced team and cannot be done to time-table. Route was southwest side. Climb abandoned because members were commercial clients not capable of the climb.C1 4570m 4 Oct C2 5000m 6 OctNearSharmadepositTourismcamp-of Japanese Gangapurna 7th26 Octover 5520m summit and to C3 5460m correct route discovered. 1600m ice wall from C3 to top. Summiters on Oct 9th put C4 at 6000-6200m in crevasse. 10th Oct 4 on summit and to C4. 11th Oct all to BC except Roncaglioni and Schranz and found them sleeping at Japanese Gangapurna deposit camp at 5000m because Sherpas had packed up C3. Difficulty was to find right route. Wall not difficult but very, very long which meant very slow descent. Last night all returned. No accidents or avalanche. Oxygen not used.81RouteAustria=GlacierNDomeWall; no NorthWest Ridgeexists;abandoned;awhenridgenottoknown. ArriveEast30goesOctto Gangapurna and another to West Roc Noir.KTMGlacierPichlerDomewith(Italy)Dr.- 12 Oct 81HaesSummitRoute-=NEsouthwestRidgeside,routesame7193m.as Swedes 1981 Spring10th Oct at 11:00 am on top by 3 Italians and 1 SherpaPichler and Haas leave KTM 29 Sept; will go well ahead of main party with 3 Sherpas to put in fixed ropes. Will need at least 50m fixed ropes between C1 and C3 so that when main party comes all will be ready for them.MarzoratiBC-at165400m;Sept281[Pichler and Haas] will arrive 4-5 Oct C2 at or a little above Col between Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome Main party arrive KTM 4-5 Oct and BC 11 or 12 Oct Fixed rope in as far as C1 by then; possibly to C2 BC to BC for main party Only 11 days because clients get bored by 12-24 days Medical oxygen only 4 Sherpas above BC Expedition has no nameAltitudeTotal 36 people coming for expedition and around-Annapurna trek. All go to BC and then decide who actually climbs and who treks. About 20 will climb; maybe7193m18,butmaybeAnnapurna21.IIPichlerroutehasEastinjuredRidgeknee;fromheNmay-actuallynewleadroute. ApproachtrekfromandfromhisManang village. BC of center of Gangapurna N Ridge. Thenwife climbup to c5900m and over ridge and down its west side on glacier and on to Glacier Dome's East Ridge. BC about 4900m. C1 5700 on glacier of Gangapurna. North Ridge and N of Glacier Dome. E Ridge. C2 c6500m either onorlittleviceearlier E Ridge. Don't think a 3rd camp necessary. Other 5 arrived 21 Sept. Leave KTM 22 or 23 by road to Dumre. 9 days to Manang from KTM and 3 days Manang BC. 3 Sherpas above BC. Gombu = Sirdar Pemba Gyalzen Pasang Temba 6 oxygen only for sleeping perhaps but not climbing. Expedition has no name.versa. -
Changed GLAC82301 (1982) — SW side (from col btw Fluted Peak & Glacier Dome) 29 fields
Field Before After Route 1 N FaceSW side (from col btw Fluted Peak & Glacier Dome) Nationality FranceUK Leaders Michel RichardAlexander (Alex) MacIntyre Sponsor French Glacier Dome ExpeditionAn Expedition to Annapurna I via its S Face Success 1 FalseTrue Ascent 1 -8th Countries -Italy Approach Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley- Basecamp Date 1982-10-221982-09-14 Summit Date 1982-11-041982-10-06 Summit Days 1322 Total Days 140 Termination Date 1982-11-05- Termination Reason 51 Termination Notes Abandoned at 6950m due to deep snow- High Point (m) 69507069 Camps 40 Total Members 53 Summit Members 03 Total Hired 20 No Hired FalseTrue Other Summits -Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-823-01) Campsites BC(22/10,4500m),C1(25/10,4900m),C2(27/10,5400m),C3(29/10,6000m),C4(01/11,6300m),xxx(04/11,6950m)BC(14/09,4270m),C1(18/09,5900m),Smt(06/10)Route Notes Richard - 12 Nov 82 Much snow very deep, much wind, no avalanches, trail covered daily by new snow. Little frostnip on toes; no accidents. All 5 returned 1:00 am today 2 Sherpas above BC carrying loads Oxygen at BC for medical only Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 82 After reaching 6950m because heavy snowfall and snow avalanches abandoned 3 Nov and left BC 5 Nov. Richard - 10 Oct 82 Route = North Face, same as Italian 1981 autumn 4 members all arrived 10 Oct; leave KTM 13 Oct by road to Dumre; walk up Marshyangdi and take 8-9 days to BC. BC between Tilicho Lake and mountain (northwest of mountain) at 4500m. Probably 3 camps above BC with C3 about 6500m or more. No Sherpas above BC. 2 weeks for climbing if weather is favorable. French Glacier Dome Expedition Not at Hotel Shakti on return.- Accidents Little frostnip on toes; no accidents- Primary Route FalseTrue Primary Member FalseTrue Primary Reference -True Primary ID -ANN182301 -
Changed GLAC83301 (1983) — SW side 21 fields
Field Before After Route 1 N FaceSW side Nationality FranceAustria Leaders Bernard MullerWolfgang Nairz, Rudi Mayr Sponsor French Expedition to Glacier DomeAustrian Glacier Dome Expedition Success 1 FalseTrue Ascent 1 -9th Countries -W Germany Basecamp Date 1983-09-281983-10-14 Summit Date 1983-10-081983-10-22 Summit Time -1600 Summit Days 108 Termination Reason 91 Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of time and bad weather- High Point (m) 64007069 Total Members 1117 Summit Members 03 Total Hired 24 Summit Hired 02 Campsites BC(28/09,4000m),C1(29/09,5000m),C2(01/10,5400m),C3(07/10,6200m),xxx(08/10,6400m)BC(14/10,4400m),C1(15/10,5200m),C2(16/10,5950m),Smt(22/10) Route Notes BC adownlittle below glacier northsouth offace.Fluted Peak.Had5onlyleft16C2daysatBC3:30toam 22 Oct on top. 4 at top 4:00 pm and Oelz at 4:30 pm. At 150m below summit Amann found very sick from altitude andbackthintoclothingBCand 1 glove (was crazy) at about 5:30 pm. Oelz very exhausted and it was very cold (-35 degrees C). Had no rope because not difficult technically. Mayr and Kleissl down with Amann and arrived C2 at 8:00 pm in full moon despite Amann's fall into crevasse. 2 Sherpas arrived 9:00. Oelz having gone astray, partly because ofmembersGermanholidays.voiceThus"heard"onlyand4fallendaysdownavailablesteepfromice,lastatcamp12:00 took biv in terrible icefall. BC saw him wave for help. Slept 2 hours then understood his position and went down SW Face totopBC. Very steep and3avalanching,ofwentthesedowndayswithhadavalanchesnowfall100-300mdepositingflying2mandsnowturning over: "I used all the luck" - stopped 400m above C2. Other Austrian summiters got him down to C2 at 9 pm onthis camp. Muller could have gone to top on 8th but expedition was to put others on top.23rd.NotNo more to top because 20 cm fresh snow fall night of 23/24 Oct. Very dangerous between C1 and C2 and a little higher overhung by huge seracs that avalanched. Icefall in this area not very difficultclimbbutnomoreproblemsdangerouswiththanroute.KhumbuOnlyIcefall. Oelzweathermay loose tips of 3 left toes to frostbite, Amann only slight frostnip. Nairz left Nepal on urgent business call from home. Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 83 BC - 14 Oct 4400m C1 - 15 Oct 5200m C2 - 17 Oct 6000m Deepak Lama, MT - 11 Oct 83 Wolfgang Nairz received urgent Telex from his office andtime. Big avalanche near summit: 1 small avalanche near C3 which destroyed 2 tents buthadsnowtocave.return to Austria; came to KTM on 9th and left Nepal on 10th. Rudi Mayr authorized to lead expedition.Agency -Mountain Travel -
Changed GLAC83302 (1983) — SW side 22 fields
Field Before After Nationality AustriaPoland Leaders Wolfgang Nairz, Rudi Mayr- Sponsor Austrian Glacier Dome Expedition- Success 1 TrueFalse Ascent 1 10th- Countries W Germany- Basecamp Date 1983-10-14- Summit Date 1983-10-22- Summit Time 1600- Summit Days 80 Termination Reason 114 Termination Notes -Termination reason unknown High Point (m) 70696500 Total Members 174 Summit Members 30 Total Hired 40 Summit Hired 20 No Hired FalseTrue Campsites BC(14/10,4400m),C1(15/10,5200m),C2(16/10,5950m),Smt(22/10)xxx(6500m) Route Notes BCPartlydownonsouththeofsameFlutedroutePeak.as the Austrian team on that season, partly on the different route.5Source:leftRudiC2Mayr,at 3:30 am 22 Oct on top. 4 at top 4:00 pm and Oelz at 4:30 pm. At 150m below summit Amann found very sick from altitude and thin clothing and 1 glove (was crazy) at about 5:30 pm. Oelz very exhausted and it was very cold (-35 degrees C). Had no rope because not difficult technically. Mayr and Kleissl down with Amann and arrived C2 at 8:00 pm in full moon despite Amann's fall into crevasse. 2 Sherpas arrived 9:00. Oelz having gone astray, partly because of German voice "heard" and fallen down steep ice, at 12:00 took biv in terrible icefall. BC saw him wave for help. Slept 2 hours then understood his position and went down SW Face to BC. Very steep and avalanching, went down with avalanche 100-300m flying and turning over: "I used all the luck" - stopped 400m above C2. Otherleader, AustriansummitersGlaciergot him down to C2 at 9 pm on 23rd. No more to top because 20 cm fresh snow fall night of 23/24 Oct. Very dangerous between C1 and C2 and a little higher overhung by huge seracs that avalanched. Icefall in this area not very difficult but more dangerous than Khumbu Icefall. Oelz may loose tips of 3 left toes to frostbite, Amann only slight frostnip. Nairz left Nepal on urgent business call from home. Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 83 BC - 14 Oct 4400m C1 - 15 Oct 5200m C2 - 17 Oct 6000m Deepak Lama, MT - 11 Oct 83 Wolfgang Nairz received urgent Telex from his office and had to return to Austria; came to KTM on 9th and left Nepal on 10th. Rudi Mayr authorized to lead expedition.DomeAgency Mountain Travel- Primary Reference -False -
Field Before After Ascent 1 11th10th -
Changed GLAC84302 (1984) — SW side (enroute to Annapurna I) 28 fields
Field Before After Route 1 N FaceSW side (enroute to Annapurna I) Nationality S KoreaSwitzerland Leaders Um Gae-SungFrank Tschirky Sponsor 1984 Korean Glacier Dome ExpeditionSwiss Annapurna Expedition (to E Ridge of Annapurna I) Success 1 TrueFalse Ascent 1 12th- Basecamp Date 1984-10-201984-09-17 Summit Date 1984-10-271984-10-02 Summit Days 715 Total Days 046 Termination Date -1984-11-02 Termination Reason 114 Termination Notes -Traversed below summit enroute to Annapurna I High Point (m) 70697100 Fixed Rope (m) 12000 Total Members 36 Summit Members 10 Total Hired 20 Summit Hired 20 No Hired FalseTrue Other Summits -Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-843-02), Annapurna I East Smt (ANNE-843-01), Annapurna I Middle Smt (ANNM-843-02) and Roc Noir (ROCN-843-01) Campsites BC(20/10,4500m),C1(22/10,4850m),C2(23/10,5100m),C3(25/10,5260m),Smt(27/10)BC(17/09,4200m),C1(19/09,5600m),C2(27/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7100m),xxx Route Notes BC at glacier northeast of mountain C1 on North Face C2 on North Face C3 on North Face. Difficult crevassed icefall between C2 and C3. 1200m fixed rope mainly above C3. Below summit small crevasse and deep soft snow.- Accidents Below summit Um fell 50m and broke 1 rib, other 2 members were far below- Achievement 1st Korean ascent- Primary Route FalseTrue Primary Reference -True Primary ID -ANN184302 -
Changed GLAC86301 (1986) — Via Fluted Peak 1 field
Field Before After Ascent 1 13th11th -
Changed GLAC88301 (1988) — E Ridge from W (descent from Annapurna I East) 2 fields
Field Before After Ascent 1 14th12th Ascent 2 15th13th -
Changed GLAC89302 (1989) — S Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Ascent 1 16th14th -
Changed GURJ88301 (1988) — N-S Ridge btw GURJ & DHA6 1 field
Field Before After Route 1 N-S Ridge between the 2 MtnsN-S Ridge btw GURJ & DHA6 -
Changed GURK03301 (2003) — SE Face 1 field
Field Before After Agency Hyecho Adventure Trekking & MountaineeringHyecho Adventure Trekking -
Changed GYAJ10301 (2010) — NW Ridge 1 field
Field Before After Sponsor Guide Montagne GyajikangGuide Montagne Gyajikang 2010