Gangapurna | 1983 N Face-NE Ridge

A Yugoslavia expedition to Gangapurna in 1983 via N Face-NE Ridge, led by Stane Belak. Summit reached on 27th October 1983. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 148
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GANG83302
Peak ID GANG
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Stane Belak
Sponsor Yugoslav Gangapurna Expedition 1983
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dumre->Manang->BC
Basecamp Date 1983-10-08
Summit Date 1983-10-27
Summit Time 1240
Summit Days 19
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1983-10-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7455
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1200
Total Members 10
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/10,4900m),ABC(10/10,5300m),C1(15/10,5600m),C2(17/10,6150m),Smt(27/10)
Route Notes BC same as Japanese 1981 autumn Early (2:00 am) started from C2, fixed last rope from 7000m on ridge and reached 12:40 pm. Tratnik started from BC on 27th and reached top at 1:00 pm. Very strong wind so could not stand up, but clear weather: "very nice view." Fixed rope to ridge and on 26 Oct start for top from C1 (except Tratnik who went up from BC after recovery from stonefall). 1200m total fixed rope. Only difficult part was between C2 to ridge at about 7000m - 60-65 degrees steep, mostly hard ice. Tratnik hit by stone and Brisar hit by serac but nothing very serious. 1 trekker was on mountain only 1 week. Novak - 22 Oct 83 Started from Dumre 28 Sept, arrived Manang 7 Oct arrived BC 8 Oct 5200m C1 9 Oct 5500m then constant snow 3 nights and 4 days up to 2m snow cover. 13 Oct all to C1 making route through snow and found all tents ruined. 14 Oct replace C1 tents, etc. 15-16 Oct making C2 (Novak left on 16 Oct) at about 5900m. All members well. [Marjan] Novak must go home to his job.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447933
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-ne ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bozidar (Dare) Alic M 1954 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Sales manager, ships' turbines factory Details Other expeditions
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf M 1940 Yugoslavia Leader Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Industrial designer Details Other expeditions
Marjan Brisar M 1953 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Sales manager, furniture export firm Details Other expeditions
Boris Kofol M 1939 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Economist Details Other expeditions
Pavle Kozjek M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Polhov Gradec, Slovenia, Yugoslavia University mathematics student Details Other expeditions
Marjan Kregar M 1956 Yugoslavia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Toolmaker Details Other expeditions
Vid Mesaric M 1933 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia High school sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Marjan Novak M - Yugoslavia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Andrej Beg M 1961 Yugoslavia Member Slovenia, Yugoslavia Student Details Other expeditions
Emil Tratnik M 1951 Yugoslavia Climber Idrija, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Technician Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GANG83302 AAJ Belak, Stane - - 58:257 (1984) -
GANG83302 HJ Belak, Stane Gangapurna, 1983 - 40:162-164 (1982-1983) -
GANG83302 MM - - - 96:12 (Mar 1984) -
GANG83302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425701/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna-from-the-North - - -
GANG83302 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/40/24/expeditions-and-notes-40/ - - -