Gangapurna | 1983 N Face-NE Ridge
A Yugoslavia expedition to Gangapurna in 1983 via N Face-NE Ridge, led by Stane Belak. Summit reached on 27th October 1983. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 148 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GANG83302 |
| Peak ID | GANG |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Yugoslavia |
| Leaders | Stane Belak |
| Sponsor | Yugoslav Gangapurna Expedition 1983 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 6th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dumre->Manang->BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-10-08 |
| Summit Date | 1983-10-27 |
| Summit Time | 1240 |
| Summit Days | 19 |
| Total Days | 22 |
| Termination Date | 1983-10-30 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7455 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1200 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(08/10,4900m),ABC(10/10,5300m),C1(15/10,5600m),C2(17/10,6150m),Smt(27/10) |
| Route Notes | BC same as Japanese 1981 autumn Early (2:00 am) started from C2, fixed last rope from 7000m on ridge and reached 12:40 pm. Tratnik started from BC on 27th and reached top at 1:00 pm. Very strong wind so could not stand up, but clear weather: "very nice view." Fixed rope to ridge and on 26 Oct start for top from C1 (except Tratnik who went up from BC after recovery from stonefall). 1200m total fixed rope. Only difficult part was between C2 to ridge at about 7000m - 60-65 degrees steep, mostly hard ice. Tratnik hit by stone and Brisar hit by serac but nothing very serious. 1 trekker was on mountain only 1 week. Novak - 22 Oct 83 Started from Dumre 28 Sept, arrived Manang 7 Oct arrived BC 8 Oct 5200m C1 9 Oct 5500m then constant snow 3 nights and 4 days up to 2m snow cover. 13 Oct all to C1 making route through snow and found all tents ruined. 14 Oct replace C1 tents, etc. 15-16 Oct making C2 (Novak left on 16 Oct) at about 5900m. All members well. [Marjan] Novak must go home to his job. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447933 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face-ne ridge |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bozidar (Dare) Alic | M | 1954 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Sales manager, ships' turbines factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf | M | 1940 | Yugoslavia | Leader | Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Industrial designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjan Brisar | M | 1953 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Sales manager, furniture export firm | Details Other expeditions |
| Boris Kofol | M | 1939 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Economist | Details Other expeditions |
| Pavle Kozjek | M | 1959 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Polhov Gradec, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | University mathematics student | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjan Kregar | M | 1956 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Toolmaker | Details Other expeditions |
| Vid Mesaric | M | 1933 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | High school sports teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjan Novak | M | - | Yugoslavia | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrej Beg | M | 1961 | Yugoslavia | Member | Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Emil Tratnik | M | 1951 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Idrija, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GANG83302 | AAJ | Belak, Stane | - | - | 58:257 (1984) | - |
| GANG83302 | HJ | Belak, Stane | Gangapurna, 1983 | - | 40:162-164 (1982-1983) | - |
| GANG83302 | MM | - | - | - | 96:12 (Mar 1984) | - |
| GANG83302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425701/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna-from-the-North | - | - | - |
| GANG83302 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/40/24/expeditions-and-notes-40/ | - | - | - |