Gaurishankar | 1980 SE Ridge

A Australia expedition to Gaurishankar in 1980 via SE Ridge, led by Patrick Alexander Cullinan. Summit reached on 11th April 1980. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1868
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUR80101
Peak ID GAUR
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Patrick Alexander Cullinan
Sponsor Australian Expedition to Gaurishankar
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Bhote Koshi->Simigaon->Rolwaling Valley
Basecamp Date 1980-03-14
Summit Date 1980-04-11
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 28
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1980-04-15
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6333m due to bad weather and lack of time
High Point (m) 6333
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak) (DOLM-801-01)
Campsites BC(14/03,4700m),ABC(16/03,5000m),C1(20/03,5320m),C2(24/03,5580m),C3(26/03,5680m),C4(04/04,6050m),xxx(11/04,6333m)
Route Notes Cullinan - 22 April 80 Tseringma Point 6333m which is definite peak and highest point reached. Reached 12:30 on 11 April by Richards, Brammer and Shambu Lama Tamang and on 13 April by Carroll, Hardless, Remynse and Cullinan. Each camp = 1 tent; no room on mountain for tents and most of those were hacked out of ice. Constantly avalanching on C2 and C3 with C3 flattened by spindrift from avalanching. Weather continually bad with heavy snow, drifting snow and white-outs. 2 full good days during entire expedition. Ran out of time; said would be back at week 1 May. This route is possible with plenty of equipment (and a fear deaths, adds one member), but ridge is so badly corniced would have been doubtful. With resources we had, Tseringma was just right. One huge rock barrier half-way up to South Summit looks like a brick wall. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 April 80 Gaurishankar camps: 16 March - 16,800 ft - ABC 20 March - 18,000 ft - C1 24 March - 18,500 ft - C2 26 March - 19,000 ft - C3 4 April - 19,400 ft - C4 3 more camps required very good weather. All well except Young while going to establish C4 slipped and fell nearly 1200 feet 3 April, but now Ok. Charles Dufour - 8 April 80 24 March met Jim MacDonald one day below BC; sick with altitude illness and was returning. Have had a lot of trouble with equipment disappearing and lot of snow. Cullinan - 20 Feb 80 Approach east to Tungmarnang river, with lower BC at 3200m at this Rolwaling Chu and Tungmarnang, northwards to BC at just under 4000m just below rivers fork then east on ridge line to point 5345m and then north to point 6333m. Then to South Peak (7010m) and then to summit (7146m) calling route SE Ridge. All now in KTM. By road to Barabise. About 8 days walk to lower BC (1/2 day lower to higher BC). 3 camps above higher BC but maybe 4; highest camp just below South Summit or possibly at low point between South and North (Main) Peaks. BC about 6 March Summit about 12 April 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar (Shambu Lama or Ang Tsering) No oxygen for climbing, only for medical if available in KTM. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 April 80 Gaurishankar abandoned; reached Gauri (Tseringma) Peak, 6333m, on 11 April by Richards and 2 members. Abandoned 13 April because bad weather and shortage of time. All are now in KTM.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446636
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christopher Charles (Kit) Bennett M 1951 Australia Climber Donvale, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Graham John Brammer M 1944 Australia Climber Perth, WA, Australia Warrant officer, Special Air Service Regiment, Perth Details Other expeditions
Wayne Carroll M 1954 Australia Climber Sydney, NSW, Australia Corporal from Special Air Service Regiment, Perth Details Other expeditions
Patrick Alexander Cullinan M 1950 Australia Leader Sydney, NSW, Australia 6th Battalion, Royal Australian Regiment, Enoggera, QLD Details Other expeditions
Michael William Hardless M 1949 Australia Climber Perth, WA, Australia Sergeant from Special Air Service Regiment, Perth Details Other expeditions
Val Lishman M 1930 Australia Exp Doctor Bunbury, WA, Australia Surgeon (civilian) Details Other expeditions
Jim MacDonald M - Australia Climber Brisbane, QLD, Australia 8/9th Battalion, Royal Australian Regiment, Enoggera, QLD Details Other expeditions
Jan Remynse M 1947 Australia Climber Perth, WA, Australia Sergeant from Special Air Service Regiment, Perth Details Other expeditions
Paul Malcom Ian Richards M 1941 Australia Climber Perth, WA, Australia Sergeant from Special Air Service Regiment, Perth Details Other expeditions
Barry Leon Young M 1940 Australia Climber Williamstown, Victoria, Australia Retired from army (was WO2 in Special Air Service Regiment) Details Other expeditions
Shambu Tamang M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Lisankhu, Sindhupalchowk - Details Other expeditions
Anu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUR80101 HJ Cullinan, P. A. & Brammer, G. Australian Gauri Shankar (Tseringma) Expedition - 37:19-21 (1979-80) -
GAUR80101 AAJ Cullinan, Patrick A. - - 55:255-256 (1981) -
GAUR80101 DAV - - - 106:160-161 (1981) -
GAUR80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125503/Asia-Nepal-Tseringma-Peak-Gaurishankar-Group - - -
GAUR80101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/6/australian-gauri-shankar-tseringma-expedition/ - - -