Gaurishankar | 1980 SE Ridge
A Australia expedition to Gaurishankar in 1980 via SE Ridge, led by Patrick Alexander Cullinan. Summit reached on 11th April 1980. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1868 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GAUR80101 |
| Peak ID | GAUR |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Australia |
| Leaders | Patrick Alexander Cullinan |
| Sponsor | Australian Expedition to Gaurishankar |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Bhote Koshi->Simigaon->Rolwaling Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-03-14 |
| Summit Date | 1980-04-11 |
| Summit Time | 1230 |
| Summit Days | 28 |
| Total Days | 32 |
| Termination Date | 1980-04-15 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6333m due to bad weather and lack of time |
| High Point (m) | 6333 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak) (DOLM-801-01) |
| Campsites | BC(14/03,4700m),ABC(16/03,5000m),C1(20/03,5320m),C2(24/03,5580m),C3(26/03,5680m),C4(04/04,6050m),xxx(11/04,6333m) |
| Route Notes | Cullinan - 22 April 80 Tseringma Point 6333m which is definite peak and highest point reached. Reached 12:30 on 11 April by Richards, Brammer and Shambu Lama Tamang and on 13 April by Carroll, Hardless, Remynse and Cullinan. Each camp = 1 tent; no room on mountain for tents and most of those were hacked out of ice. Constantly avalanching on C2 and C3 with C3 flattened by spindrift from avalanching. Weather continually bad with heavy snow, drifting snow and white-outs. 2 full good days during entire expedition. Ran out of time; said would be back at week 1 May. This route is possible with plenty of equipment (and a fear deaths, adds one member), but ridge is so badly corniced would have been doubtful. With resources we had, Tseringma was just right. One huge rock barrier half-way up to South Summit looks like a brick wall. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 April 80 Gaurishankar camps: 16 March - 16,800 ft - ABC 20 March - 18,000 ft - C1 24 March - 18,500 ft - C2 26 March - 19,000 ft - C3 4 April - 19,400 ft - C4 3 more camps required very good weather. All well except Young while going to establish C4 slipped and fell nearly 1200 feet 3 April, but now Ok. Charles Dufour - 8 April 80 24 March met Jim MacDonald one day below BC; sick with altitude illness and was returning. Have had a lot of trouble with equipment disappearing and lot of snow. Cullinan - 20 Feb 80 Approach east to Tungmarnang river, with lower BC at 3200m at this Rolwaling Chu and Tungmarnang, northwards to BC at just under 4000m just below rivers fork then east on ridge line to point 5345m and then north to point 6333m. Then to South Peak (7010m) and then to summit (7146m) calling route SE Ridge. All now in KTM. By road to Barabise. About 8 days walk to lower BC (1/2 day lower to higher BC). 3 camps above higher BC but maybe 4; highest camp just below South Summit or possibly at low point between South and North (Main) Peaks. BC about 6 March Summit about 12 April 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar (Shambu Lama or Ang Tsering) No oxygen for climbing, only for medical if available in KTM. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 April 80 Gaurishankar abandoned; reached Gauri (Tseringma) Peak, 6333m, on 11 April by Richards and 2 members. Abandoned 13 April because bad weather and shortage of time. All are now in KTM. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446636 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Christopher Charles (Kit) Bennett | M | 1951 | Australia | Climber | Donvale, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Graham John Brammer | M | 1944 | Australia | Climber | Perth, WA, Australia | Warrant officer, Special Air Service Regiment, Perth | Details Other expeditions |
| Wayne Carroll | M | 1954 | Australia | Climber | Sydney, NSW, Australia | Corporal from Special Air Service Regiment, Perth | Details Other expeditions |
| Patrick Alexander Cullinan | M | 1950 | Australia | Leader | Sydney, NSW, Australia | 6th Battalion, Royal Australian Regiment, Enoggera, QLD | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael William Hardless | M | 1949 | Australia | Climber | Perth, WA, Australia | Sergeant from Special Air Service Regiment, Perth | Details Other expeditions |
| Val Lishman | M | 1930 | Australia | Exp Doctor | Bunbury, WA, Australia | Surgeon (civilian) | Details Other expeditions |
| Jim MacDonald | M | - | Australia | Climber | Brisbane, QLD, Australia | 8/9th Battalion, Royal Australian Regiment, Enoggera, QLD | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Remynse | M | 1947 | Australia | Climber | Perth, WA, Australia | Sergeant from Special Air Service Regiment, Perth | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Malcom Ian Richards | M | 1941 | Australia | Climber | Perth, WA, Australia | Sergeant from Special Air Service Regiment, Perth | Details Other expeditions |
| Barry Leon Young | M | 1940 | Australia | Climber | Williamstown, Victoria, Australia | Retired from army (was WO2 in Special Air Service Regiment) | Details Other expeditions |
| Shambu Tamang | M | 1955 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Lisankhu, Sindhupalchowk | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Anu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GAUR80101 | HJ | Cullinan, P. A. & Brammer, G. | Australian Gauri Shankar (Tseringma) Expedition | - | 37:19-21 (1979-80) | - |
| GAUR80101 | AAJ | Cullinan, Patrick A. | - | - | 55:255-256 (1981) | - |
| GAUR80101 | DAV | - | - | - | 106:160-161 (1981) | - |
| GAUR80101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125503/Asia-Nepal-Tseringma-Peak-Gaurishankar-Group | - | - | - |
| GAUR80101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/6/australian-gauri-shankar-tseringma-expedition/ | - | - | - |