Gangapurna | 1971 W Ridge from S

A Japan expedition to Gangapurna in 1971 via W Ridge from S, led by Kiyoshi Shimizu. Summit reached on 15th October 1971. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2787
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GANG71301
Peak ID GANG
Year 1971
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kiyoshi Shimizu
Sponsor Nagano Mountaineering Association
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
Basecamp Date 1971-09-07
Summit Date 1971-10-15
Summit Time 1415
Summit Days 38
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1971-10-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7455
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 5
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09),C1(15/09,5180m),C2(22/09,5900m),C3(09/10,6850m),C4(13/10,7120m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes Approached from the south via the Modi Khola and Sanctuary. On October 15, Kiyoshi Shimizu, Takeshi Akahane and Girme Dorje Sherpa reached the summit from C4 at 2:15 pm at 2:15 pm and then returned to C4 at 7 pm where a second summit team of 4 was waiting. They planned continue down to C3 that day where 3 more teammates were waiting in support of the two summit teams, but heavy snows pinned all seven of them down at C4. At 6 pm on Oct 16, the two higher camps failed to make radio contact with 3 Japanese climbers and 3 Sherpas waiting at C2. On the next day Oct 17, Girme Dorje and Pemba Norbu went down to C2 from C4 to investigate. The next morning Oct 18 at 8 am Girme reported by radio to C3 from the C2 site that the camp had completely disappeared, presumably swept away by an avalanche on the afternoon of Oct 16 and killing all 6 occupants. After reporting this, Girme said that he and Pemba would return back up to C3, but the Japanese in C3 advised against since the route between the camps was avalanche prone. They were not seen or heard from again. It is presumed that they were swept away by an avalanche or fell into a crevasse.
Accidents 3 members and 5 Sherpas killed by avalanche (or fall)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443526
Year 1971
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from s

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kiyoshi Shimizu M - Japan Leader Suwa, Nagano, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Akahane M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Girme Dorje Sherpa M 1935 Nepal Sirdar Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Iwao Ogiso M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Kohei Sasakawa M - Japan Climber/Exp Doctor - - Details Other expeditions
Masuo Hakoyama M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Pemba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Chottar Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kazutomo Kobayashi M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Naoki Miyasaka M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Akira Shiobara M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Hirosuke Kinoshita M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Kesato Wakabayashi M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GANG71301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 46:185-186 (1972) -
GANG71301 JAC Shimizu, Kiyoshi Gangapurna, Autumn 1971 - 68:11-16 (1973) -
GANG71301 MM - - - 20:12 (Mar 1972) -
GANG71301 JAC Shimizu, Kiyoshi Gangapurna, Autumn 1971 - 68:36-45 (1973) -
GANG71301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197218504/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna - - -