Gangapurna | 1971 W Ridge from S
A Japan expedition to Gangapurna in 1971 via W Ridge from S, led by Kiyoshi Shimizu. Summit reached on 15th October 1971. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2787 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GANG71301 |
| Peak ID | GANG |
| Year | 1971 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Ridge from S |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Kiyoshi Shimizu |
| Sponsor | Nagano Mountaineering Association |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 3rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1971-09-07 |
| Summit Date | 1971-10-15 |
| Summit Time | 1415 |
| Summit Days | 38 |
| Total Days | 45 |
| Termination Date | 1971-10-22 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7455 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 3 |
| Total Hired | 8 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 5 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(07/09),C1(15/09,5180m),C2(22/09,5900m),C3(09/10,6850m),C4(13/10,7120m),Smt(15/10) |
| Route Notes | Approached from the south via the Modi Khola and Sanctuary. On October 15, Kiyoshi Shimizu, Takeshi Akahane and Girme Dorje Sherpa reached the summit from C4 at 2:15 pm at 2:15 pm and then returned to C4 at 7 pm where a second summit team of 4 was waiting. They planned continue down to C3 that day where 3 more teammates were waiting in support of the two summit teams, but heavy snows pinned all seven of them down at C4. At 6 pm on Oct 16, the two higher camps failed to make radio contact with 3 Japanese climbers and 3 Sherpas waiting at C2. On the next day Oct 17, Girme Dorje and Pemba Norbu went down to C2 from C4 to investigate. The next morning Oct 18 at 8 am Girme reported by radio to C3 from the C2 site that the camp had completely disappeared, presumably swept away by an avalanche on the afternoon of Oct 16 and killing all 6 occupants. After reporting this, Girme said that he and Pemba would return back up to C3, but the Japanese in C3 advised against since the route between the camps was avalanche prone. They were not seen or heard from again. It is presumed that they were swept away by an avalanche or fell into a crevasse. |
| Accidents | 3 members and 5 Sherpas killed by avalanche (or fall) |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2443526 |
| Year | 1971 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w ridge from s |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kiyoshi Shimizu | M | - | Japan | Leader | Suwa, Nagano, Japan | Farmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takeshi Akahane | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Girme Dorje Sherpa | M | 1935 | Nepal | Sirdar | Khunde, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Iwao Ogiso | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kohei Sasakawa | M | - | Japan | Climber/Exp Doctor | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Masuo Hakoyama | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Pemba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Gyalzen Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Chottar Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Norbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazutomo Kobayashi | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Naoki Miyasaka | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Akira Shiobara | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Hirosuke Kinoshita | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kesato Wakabayashi | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Norbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GANG71301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 46:185-186 (1972) | - |
| GANG71301 | JAC | Shimizu, Kiyoshi | Gangapurna, Autumn 1971 | - | 68:11-16 (1973) | - |
| GANG71301 | MM | - | - | - | 20:12 (Mar 1972) | - |
| GANG71301 | JAC | Shimizu, Kiyoshi | Gangapurna, Autumn 1971 | - | 68:36-45 (1973) | - |
| GANG71301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197218504/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna | - | - | - |