Gaurishankar South | 1984 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gaurishankar South in 1984 via SE Ridge, led by Michio Yuasa. Summit reached on 19th October 1984. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8916
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUS84301
Peak ID GAUS
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Michio Yuasa
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club Tokai Goodwill Expedition to Gaurishankar
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-30
Summit Date 1984-10-19
Summit Time 1545
Summit Days 19
Total Days 20
Termination Date 1984-10-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7010m because time had run out (already overdue in Japan)
High Point (m) 7010
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 8000
Total Members 13
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Gaurishankar (GAUR-843-01)
Campsites BC(30/08,4800m),C1(05/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6300m),C3(01/10,6300m),Biv(18/10,6350m),Biv(19/10,6600m),Smt(19/10)
Route Notes BC at 4800m at NW of Beding and east of Ramdung Tolung C1 at 5600m at under rock face - just NW C2 at 6314m top of Tseringma C3 at 6350m on face of S Summit Biv at 6600m on S Summit plateau (biv here after going to summit) High point at 7010m at S Summit. Climbed only to South Summit. Planned to make temporary C4 under final face on south side of South Summit but could not make it because very bad storm from 8 Oct for a weak, so went to South Summit in two bivouacs. On 20 Oct Saito and 3 other Japanese from C2 to BC while other South Summiters stay C3. 21 Oct all other summiters to BC and climbing finished because time finished, must go back to work in Japan. To reach Main summit would need 4 more days alpine style. Most difficult part: between BC and C2 not so difficult but near C3 called ridge "hell traverse" because was narrow saw tooth with mixed rock, soft snow and ice on its face. Total 8000m fixed rope. Some avalanches came down 7-9 Oct, but no one hit (fell across route about BC) but took out some fixed rope. Hamatani altitude sickness and left BC 4 Sept. Yuasa left BC 22 Sept with Hamatami after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again gotten sick.
Accidents Some avalanches on Oct 7-9, but no one hit (across route above BC and took out some fixed rope); Hamatani altitude sickness; Yuasa left BC with Hamatani after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again got sick
Achievement 3rd ascent of South Smt
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID GAUR84301
Checksum 2448337
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michio Yuasa M 1937 Japan Leader Nagoya, Japan Law professor Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yamamoto M 1945 Japan Climbing Leader Otsu, Shiga, Japan Sports shop manager Details Other expeditions
Akio Yanagisawa M 1941 Japan Deputy Leader Yutaka, Nagano, Japan Staff member, Ministry Education Details Other expeditions
Atsushi Furuhata M 1951 Japan Climber Ikeda, Nagano, Japan Salesman Details Other expeditions
Mitsuyosi Hamatani M 1956 Japan Climber Yotsukaichi, Mie, Japan Sports shop Details Other expeditions
Kiichi Kimura M 1958 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Salesman Details Other expeditions
Tetsuo Matsui M 1949 Japan Climber Haziwara, Gifu, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Toshio Mizutani M 1955 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Oda M 1951 Japan Climber Maikata, Osaka, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yasuhira Saito M 1953 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Engineer, petroleum Details Other expeditions
Kiyohiko Suzuki M 1957 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Sports shop owner Details Other expeditions
Shinji Takamura M 1960 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Bookshop salesman Details Other expeditions
Yoshiyuki Tsuji M 1947 Japan Climber Kuwana, Mie, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa Tamang M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Dawa Tamang M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.