Gaurishankar South | 1983 S Face-SW Ridge

A Yugoslavia expedition to Gaurishankar South in 1983 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Slavko Canker. Summit reached on 1st November 1983. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8915
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUS83301
Peak ID GAUS
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Slavko Canker
Sponsor Celje Himalayan Expedition to Gaurishankar
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-10-02
Summit Date 1983-11-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1983-11-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Reached S Summit of Gaurishankar only
High Point (m) 7010
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Gaurishankar (GAUR-833-01)
Campsites BC(02/10,3750m),C1(06/10,4750m),C2(16/10,5420m),C3(27/10,6200m),Biv(31/10,6600m),Smt(01,04/11)
Route Notes BC at Tongmarmarg valley just east of lower "n" on Schneider map. Ascent route S Face to SW Ridge (joined British route on ridge at 6500m); highest point at S Summit; Descent route S Face To SW Ridge. Between C1 and C2 much snowfall which destroyed C1 and ropes. Between C2 and C3 much rock and icefall so could work only very early in morning when cold. Difficult rock climbing just above C2 at 5500m (100m high rock well) then moved climbing and again 50m rock wall - 60 degree steepness. Both days on S Summit very strong wind and cold. No attempt to go beyond S Summit. 1 more week needed to carry equipment and fix ropes. No time, ropes and strength left after 4 Nov (had received 1 week's extension). C1 tent when empty of people struck by big rock. Climbed safest route on face: 100m to right something falling all the time. Most difficult climb ever made by Srot and Canker. Zupan lightly grazed by falling stone. 4 members bit frozen fingers. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 Nov 1983 Yugoslav Gaurishankar South face 3 members started from C3 (6300 m) on 31 Oct via South Face and spent night of 31st biv at 6700m in snowhole and 1 Nov started from biv at 8:00 am and on South Summit (7010m). 1) Smiljan Smodis, born 1957, student Celj 2) Bojan Srot, born 1961, student Celj reached South Summit 13:50 pm 1 leader Slavko Cankar on S summit at 15:20 hours. Strong wind and cloud and took photos All 3 spent 1 Nov night at C3 3 Nov Franc Pepevnik (born 1959, merchant ,Sentjur), Joze Zupan (born 1954, teacher, Rimske Toplice) started from C3 on 3 Nov at 12:00 noon and spent night at 6700m same snowhole. 4 Nov started at 8:15 am and reached South Summit 11:00 am; strong wind but clear photo. Down to C1 4650m that day. Health: Franc Povesc and Ales Stopar injured their hands by stone at 6200m, so returned to BC but not serious. Leader's toes little frostbitten. Planned to leave BC 7 Nov
Accidents Zupan lightly grazed by falling stone; 4 members little frozen fingers
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID GAUR83301
Checksum 2447983
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-sw ridge

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Slavko Cankar M 1949 Yugoslavia Leader Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Technical manager in factory Details Other expeditions
Joze Zupan M 1954 Yugoslavia Deputy Leader Rimske Toplice, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physical education teacher Details Other expeditions
Zlatka Centrih F 1951 Yugoslavia Member Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Professor of physical education Details Other expeditions
Zvonko Drobnic M 1955 Yugoslavia Climber Dobrunje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Butcher Details Other expeditions
Ferdinand Erjavec M 1937 Yugoslavia Member Mozirje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Economist Details Other expeditions
Mojmir-Matjaz Kosi M 1948 Yugoslavia Member Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Franc (Aco) Pepevnik M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Sentjur, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Salesman, jewelery shop Details Other expeditions
Zvezdan Pirtosek M 1956 Yugoslavia Member Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physician Details Other expeditions
Franc Povse M 1956 Yugoslavia Climber Braslovce, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Worker, agriculture machinery factory Details Other expeditions
Marijana Sah F 1958 Yugoslavia Climber Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Professor of education Details Other expeditions
Smiljan Smodis M 1957 Yugoslavia Climber Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Forestry student Details Other expeditions
Bojan Srot M 1960 Yugoslavia Climber Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Law student Details Other expeditions
Srecko Srot M 1953 Yugoslavia Climber Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Newspaperman Details Other expeditions
Ales Stopar M 1960 Yugoslavia Climber Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Student of art history Details Other expeditions
Anton Zunter M 1949 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Luce, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physician Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.