Glacier Dome | 1981 SW side

A Austria expedition to Glacier Dome in 1981 via SW side, led by Gerwalt Pichler. Summit reached on 18th October 1981. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1780
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GLAC81301
Peak ID GLAC
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW side
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Gerwalt Pichler
Sponsor Austrian Expedition to Glacier Dome
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-10-12
Summit Date 1981-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5800m because members were commercial clients not capable of climb and route very difficult
High Point (m) 5800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,4300M),C1(13/10,5050m),C2(17/10,5050m),xxx(18/10,5800m)
Route Notes Adi Weissensteiner - 29 Oct 81 Pichler went with trek after BC. Adi Weissensteiner led climb of total of 15 members only. 4 Sherpas above BC BC 4300m - 12 Oct C1 5050m - 13 Oct Planned to use Swedish route but out of question because to dangerous from avalanches and crevasses had opened up widely and glacier ready to fall in on itself. Had acclimatization problem with members who had to go down. Once had gained altitude tried going long way to east and around glacier. Went around and made C2 made at 5450m on 17 Oct. Continued looking for route to avoid dangerous area of glacier. Got stuck in upper glacier and went to pillar found members not prepared for such a climb. Traverse too dangerous and they not acclimatized. 19 Oct stopped attempt. Highest point was 5800m by Adi and Ang Temba on 18 Oct. No accidents. Summit needs experienced team and cannot be done to time-table. Route was southwest side. Climb abandoned because members were commercial clients not capable of the climb. Sharma Tourism - 26 Oct 81 Austria Glacier Dome West Ridge abandoned; when not known. Arrive 30 Oct KTM Pichler with Dr. Haes Route = southwest side, same as Swedes 1981 Spring Pichler and Haas leave KTM 29 Sept; will go well ahead of main party with 3 Sherpas to put in fixed ropes. Will need at least 50m fixed ropes between C1 and C3 so that when main party comes all will be ready for them. BC at 5400m; 2 [Pichler and Haas] will arrive 4-5 Oct C2 at or a little above Col between Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome Main party arrive KTM 4-5 Oct and BC 11 or 12 Oct Fixed rope in as far as C1 by then; possibly to C2 BC to BC for main party Only 11 days because clients get bored by 12-24 days Medical oxygen only 4 Sherpas above BC Expedition has no name Total 36 people coming for expedition and around-Annapurna trek. All go to BC and then decide who actually climbs and who treks. About 20 will climb; maybe 18, maybe 21. Pichler has injured knee; he may actually lead trek and his wife climb or vice versa.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447229
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw side

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Erich Bosina M 1924 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Police official Details Other expeditions
Gerwalt Pichler M - Austria Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Erwin Ebner M 1940 Austria Climber Bruck an der Mur, Styria, Austria Blacksmith Details Other expeditions
Erich Gaertner M 1950 Austria Climber Graz, Styria, Austria Salesman Details Other expeditions
Adolf Richard (Adi) Weissensteiner M 1938 Austria Deputy Leader Admont, Styria, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Leo Graf M 1927 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Postal office staff member Details Other expeditions
Rudolf Gschwandtner M 1948 Austria Climber Abtenau, Salzburg, Austria Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Herbert Hacker M 1941 Austria Climber Strassengel, Styria, Austria Bank official Details Other expeditions
Erika Marvan F 1931 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Customs official Details Other expeditions
Peter Marvan M 1927 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Technician Details Other expeditions
Peter Nowak M 1939 Austria Climber Graz, Styria, Austria Chemist Details Other expeditions
Harald Roemer M 1943 Austria Climber Ferlach, Carinthia, Austria Technician Details Other expeditions
Friedrich Schiefer M 1954 Austria Climber Moedling, Lower Austria, Austria Salesman Details Other expeditions
Karl Schnuderl M 1940 Austria Climber Rottenmann, Styria, Austria Baker Details Other expeditions
Fridebert Widder M 1940 Austria Climber Graz, Styria, Austria Physicist Details Other expeditions
Franz Wohlfahrt M 1944 Austria Climber Selzthal, Styria, Austria Railway employee Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.