Glacier Dome | 1984 SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome)

A Austria expedition to Glacier Dome in 1984 via SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome), led by Josef Oberauer. Summit reached on 22nd October 1984. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1015
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GLAC84301
Peak ID GLAC
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Josef Oberauer
Sponsor Austrian Glacier Dome Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA, W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-10-12
Summit Date 1984-10-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7069
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,4300m),C1(17/10,5050m),C2(19/10,5400m),C3(20/10,5650m),C4(21/10,6050m),Smt(22/10)
Route Notes BC at 4300m SE of Fluted Peak - between Fluted and Tent Peak on moraine C1 on 5050m at beginning of icefalls below saddle between moraine of Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome's West Ridge C3 at 5650m above couloir and just before big icefall C4 at 6050m near top of big icefall. Had problems with bad new snow to C2, C3 and C4. Between C2 and C3 big very dangerous couloir (from icefall and avalanches). Between C3 and C4 very steep big icefall which needed 60m fixed rope. Then above C4 big crevasse which 60m+ deep and 10m wide from one end of glacier to other but small snow bridges out from each side at right end of crevasse. Also steep slope avalanches, one of which carried a Sherpa 15m between C3 and C4. From saddle to top good snow and steps by Swiss East Ridge but from C4 to saddle at 6200m one more big crevasses but not so much trouble as lower one.
Accidents 2 members sick at Macchapuchare BC and left expedition (not altitude sickness)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448340
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw side (from col betw fluted peak & glac dome)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Herta Kantner F 1941 Austria Climber Zurich, Switzerland Executive secretary Details Other expeditions
Werner Masik M 1944 Austria Climber Wiener Neudorf, Lower Austria, Austria Croupier Details Other expeditions
Josef Oberauer M 1957 Austria Leader Annaberg, Lower Austria, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Friedel Schunk M 1938 USA Climber Ramsey, New Jersey Financial manager Details Other expeditions
Helka Schunk F 1934 W Germany Climber Ramsey, New Jersey Housewife Details Other expeditions
Klaus Solbach M 1941 W Germany Climber Otzberg, Hesse, W Germany Lufthansa flight engineer Details Other expeditions
Ang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Gyalgen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GLAC84301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:283 (1985) -
GLAC84301 DAV - - - 110:175 (1986) -
GLAC84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528302/Asia-Nepal-Tarke-Kang-Glacier-Dome - - -