Gangapurna | 1981 NW Ridge-NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gangapurna in 1981 via NW Ridge-NE Ridge, led by Yuichi Suzuki. Summit reached on 26th September 1981. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1809
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GANG81301
Peak ID GANG
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yuichi Suzuki
Sponsor Meiji University Sundai Alpine Club Gangapurna Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-09-13
Summit Date 1981-09-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 20
Termination Date 1981-10-03
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to fatal avalanche
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/09,5000m),C1(21/09,5950m),C2(25/09,6750m),xxx(26/09,7000m)
Route Notes Tsunoda - 11 Oct 81 BC 5000m C1 5950m 21 Sept C2 6750m 25 Sept on NW Ridge by Tsunoda and 2 and returned to C1 same day (Suzuki and Sakamoto to C2 26 Sept) 29 Sept avalanche from 6:00-8:00 am snow slide. C2 hit and buried but not swept away; only 2 members [Suzuki and Sakamoto] in C2. 30 Sept Tsunoda and 2 others from C1 to C2. Left C1 7:00 am, but very dangerous, much snow and snow slides below C2. Went to 6600m only and returned to C1. 27-29 Sept snowing 3 days and could not move. Walkie-talkie 29 Sept 1st radio call at 6:00 am C1 to C2 Tsunoda talked with both by walkie-talkie. They said from C2 very much snowing. "After talking I think accident." Talked only 2-3 minutes; next contact 8:00 am and no talking. Tsunoda saw or heard nothing of avalanche. All day 29 Sept tried contact but no contact. Other 2 members coming with baggage after 3 days. 1 Oct 3 members from C1 again at 7:00 pm. 1 hour searched for C2. Cannot see tent but 2m below snow found C2 = only tent. Found Akira Suzuki's body, but Sakamoto's not found. Very strong wind at C2 on 1 Oct and only 3 men so could not carry down body, very dangerous. Returned to C1 at 3 pm. Left Suzuki body in between snow which was very deep and hard. 2 Oct 3 members and 3 Sherpas returned to BC and expedition finished. First planned to make 4 camps above BC but changed to only 3 camps because route not so difficult. Planned summit 7 or 8 Oct after making route in difficult attack area and after rest. No avalanche before 29 Sept. If no accident "I think" would have reached summit. 10 years ago expedition this route reached 7000m. Ranjan Express - 8 Oct 81 Message from Tsunoda: C2 6750m 29 Sept was seized with snowing could not carry down their bodies. We finished expedition. Arrive KTM 10 Oct Leader went only to BC and returned to Japan. Left KTM 26 Sept for Japan, must have left BC about 14 Sept. Sharma, Tourism - 5 Oct 81 Gangapurna Meiji Univ. Sardai Takeshi Sakamoto, born 10/30/51 Akira Suzuki, born 03/07/57, ex-Tokyo, student Both reported dead on 29 Sept by L0 Expedition abandoned. No further details. No camp news above BC. Tsunoda - 11 Aug 81 2 Japanese here now, 4 more arrived 20 Aug Leave KTM 23-24 Aug for Dumre, caravan route Kudi Darapani-Pisang-Manang to Gangapurna Glacier Route = NW Ridge, unclimbed. Japanese 10 years ago tried it to about 7000m Gangapurna never climbed from North. BC in Gangapurna Glacier, 5000m C1 5300m on glacier C2 6000m C3 6800m - 1st camp on ridge C4 7000m - final camp C1 to C3 on snow ridge C3 to C4 is rock ridge (is NW Ridge) C3 to C4 most difficult, saw-tooth rock ridge, C4 to top again snow ridge and think not so difficult but no one has climbed this part 3 Sherpas above BC 2 oxygen medical only Arrive BC 10 Sept; summit about 20 Sept Return to KTM 30 Oct
Accidents Sakamoto and Suzuki killed by avalanche at C2
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447170
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge-ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Masafumi Kumada M 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student of economics and political science, Meiji University Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Nakagawa M 1960 Japan Climber Omiya, Saitama, Japan Student of Japanese literature, Meiji University Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Sakamoto M 1951 Japan Climber Matsue, Shimane, Japan Businessman Details Other expeditions
Akira Suzuki M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student of economics, Meiji University Details Other expeditions
Yuichi Suzuki M 1947 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan President, wine company Details Other expeditions
Fuji Tsunoda M 1952 Japan Deputy Leader Kitamoto, Saitama, Japan Director of Himalayan Association of Japan Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GANG81301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:233-234 (1982) -
GANG81301 MM - - - 83:9 (Jan 1982) -
GANG81301 IWA - - - 88:190 (1982) -
GANG81301 IWA - - - 88:51 (1982) -
GANG81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223302/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna-Tragedy - - -