Gaurishankar | 1980 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gaurishankar in 1980 via SE Ridge, led by Michio Yuasa. Summit reached on 15th October 1980. 38 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1884
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUR80301
Peak ID GAUR
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Michio Yuasa
Sponsor Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt. Gaurishankar 1980 (JAC)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-08-31
Summit Date 1980-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 45
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and fatigue
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 5000
Total Members 35
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak) (DOLM-803-01)
Campsites BC(31/08,4800m),C1(11/09,5500m),C2(27/09,6050m),C3(05/10,6100m),xxx(15/10,6400m)
Route Notes Ichihashi - 27 Oct 80 C3 made 5 Oct at only 6100m, almost same altitude as C2. Highest point about 6400m reached on 15 Oct by Ozaki and Otsubo. Went to point 6333m which is really 6100m high and 300m above and 2 km farther along very difficult rock ridge. Above point 6400m was 200m rock face and at attack time for this face, 18-20 Oct, bad weather: cloud and most members too tired to continue. Tents at all camps torn by wind and snow. Route is possible but half members sick or tired or have business in Japan climbing with half power. Of 18 climbing members only 3 attacking mountain other at end members will come KTM about 31 Oct. No accidents or frostbite 5000m fixed rope; all route fixed roped from BC to top of route. No other peaks attempted Ichihashi - 7 Aug 80 Approach from Beding, up Jomoi Gul Chhu Valley to BC at about 4800m at point west of "N" in Schneider map of Rolwaling to Pt 6333m where put C2 and thence on SE Ridge to South Face for part of climb (face 200m). 3 days climbing at 6500m to 6700m to South Peak 7000m where then down north of South Peak put C4 to 6700m, then to Main Peak. C4 final camp. Today last party leaves KTM, arrive Beding after 10-12 days, reaching BC after 2 more days, dumping baggage, then climbing members help make bridges. 14 Japanese climbing members and 3 Nepalese climbing; rest of members involved in bridge building. Ichihashi led recce in Nov 79 to BC. 3 Sherpas and 3 Nepalese members above BC; Shambu Tamang = Nepalese Leader Oxygen medical only Summit about 5 Oct Poudyal Yeti Mountain - 7 Aug 80 Nepalese climbing members 1) Shambu Tamang, 27 yrs old, Sindupulchowk, Lisanku village climbed Everest 5/5/93 2) Pasang Kaji Lama, 35 yrs old, Salleri was with 1970 Japanese Everest expedition 3) Ang Phuri Lama, 28 yrs old, Beni 1979 Lhotse Polish expedition (over 8000m)
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446823
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

38 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Noboru Onoe M 1943 Japan xClimber Nagoya, Japan Company manager Details Other expeditions
Michio Yuasa M 1937 Japan Leader Nagoya, Japan Law professor Details Other expeditions
Ryuji Nakaseko M 1935 Japan Climber - Employee of Company Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yamamoto M 1945 Japan Climber Otsu, Shiga, Japan Manager of Iwa To Yuki Co. Details Other expeditions
Ryuji Ichihashi M 1947 Japan Climbing Leader Nagoya, Japan Company employee Details Other expeditions
Kenji Ito M 1947 Japan Climber Kuwana, Masuo, Japan Company employee Details Other expeditions
Kiyohiko Suzuki M 1957 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Student, Aichi-Gukuin University Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ozaki M 1952 Japan Climber Kameyama, Mie, Japan Employee of Kameyama-Automobile Co. Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Matsuno M 1956 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Employee of Matuno Stone-merchant Details Other expeditions
Yoshinobu Tsuchimoto M 1943 Japan Deputy Leader Toki, Tokitsu, Japan Company employee Details Other expeditions
Akio Yanagisawa M 1941 Japan Climber Nagano, Japan Staff member, Ministry Education Details Other expeditions
Yoshiyuki Tsuji M 1947 Japan Tactician Kuwana, Masuo, Japan Employee of Tomisu-Unyu Co. Details Other expeditions
Masaji Wada M 1948 Japan Food Nagoya, Japan Employee of Shinto-Tsushin Co. Details Other expeditions
Tetsuo Kakishita M 1949 Japan Transport Kasugai, Aichi, Japan Employee of Shinshu-Meitetsu Unyu Co. Details Other expeditions
Atsushi Furuhata M 1951 Japan Equipment Omachi, Nakahara, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Junichiro Shinbashi M 1946 Japan Food Kuwana, Hachima, Japan Company employee Details Other expeditions
Ryoichi Otsubo M 1954 Japan Climber Kyoto, Minami, Japan Firefighter Details Other expeditions
Yasuichi Yamanaka M 1953 Japan Climber Suzuka, Ishiyakushi, Japan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Toshio Mizutani M 1955 Japan Climber Yokkaichi, Tomita, Japan Company employee Details Other expeditions
Masato Akita M 1957 Japan Climber Nishio, Aichi, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Manabu Natsukawa M 1952 Japan Climber Shiga, Shiga-cho, Japan Employee of World-Business Center Details Other expeditions
Yasunori Mukai M 1957 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Mitsuhiro Hosaka M 1951 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Company employee Details Other expeditions
Katsuhisa Kano M 1958 Japan Climber Nishio, Aichi, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Takako Hamamoto M 1959 Japan Climber Chita, Aichi, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Masayo Kato M 1956 Japan Climber Toyata, Homicho, Japan Teacher of abacus Details Other expeditions
Mikiyo Sawafuji M 1956 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Company employee Details Other expeditions
Yumi Araki M 1959 Japan Climber Yokkaichi, Hatta, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Naoto Kobayashi M 1956 Japan Climber Isshicho, Mie, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Kaoru Kuno M 1960 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Torao Otsuka M 1915 Japan Climber Kasugai, Aichi, Japan Toki Cramic Details Other expeditions
Yasumasa Yanagisawa M 1937 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Reporter Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Tomoi M 1937 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Norikazu Ohno M 1944 Japan Exp Doctor Japan Physician & Lecturer, Aichi-Gakuin University Details Other expeditions
Takahide Ono M 1957 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Ang Phuri Lama M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker/Climber Beni-3, Solukhumbu High-altitude guide Details Other expeditions
Pasang Kaji Lama M - Nepal H-A Worker/Climber Salleri, Solukhumbu High-altitude guide Details Other expeditions
Shambu Tamang M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker/Climber Lisankhu, Sindhupalchowk Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUR80301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:255 (1981) -
GAUR80301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125502/Asia-Nepal-Gaurishankar-Attempt - - -