Glacier Dome | 1983 SW side
A Austria expedition to Glacier Dome in 1983 via SW side, led by Wolfgang Nairz, Rudi Mayr. Summit reached on 22nd October 1983. 19 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 141 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GLAC83301 |
| Peak ID | GLAC |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW side |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Austria |
| Leaders | Wolfgang Nairz, Rudi Mayr |
| Sponsor | Austrian Glacier Dome Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 9th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | W Germany |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-10-14 |
| Summit Date | 1983-10-22 |
| Summit Time | 1600 |
| Summit Days | 8 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7069 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 17 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(14/10,4400m),C1(15/10,5200m),C2(16/10,5950m),Smt(22/10) |
| Route Notes | BC down south of Fluted Peak. 5 left C2 at 3:30 am 22 Oct on top. 4 at top 4:00 pm and Oelz at 4:30 pm. At 150m below summit Amann found very sick from altitude and thin clothing and 1 glove (was crazy) at about 5:30 pm. Oelz very exhausted and it was very cold (-35 degrees C). Had no rope because not difficult technically. Mayr and Kleissl down with Amann and arrived C2 at 8:00 pm in full moon despite Amann's fall into crevasse. 2 Sherpas arrived 9:00. Oelz having gone astray, partly because of German voice "heard" and fallen down steep ice, at 12:00 took biv in terrible icefall. BC saw him wave for help. Slept 2 hours then understood his position and went down SW Face to BC. Very steep and avalanching, went down with avalanche 100-300m flying and turning over: "I used all the luck" - stopped 400m above C2. Other Austrian summiters got him down to C2 at 9 pm on 23rd. No more to top because 20 cm fresh snow fall night of 23/24 Oct. Very dangerous between C1 and C2 and a little higher overhung by huge seracs that avalanched. Icefall in this area not very difficult but more dangerous than Khumbu Icefall. Oelz may loose tips of 3 left toes to frostbite, Amann only slight frostnip. Nairz left Nepal on urgent business call from home. Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 83 BC - 14 Oct 4400m C1 - 15 Oct 5200m C2 - 17 Oct 6000m Deepak Lama, MT - 11 Oct 83 Wolfgang Nairz received urgent Telex from his office and had to return to Austria; came to KTM on 9th and left Nepal on 10th. Rudi Mayr authorized to lead expedition. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447959 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw side |
Members
19 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rainer Amann | M | 1932 | Austria | Climber | Hohenems, Vorarlberg, Austria | Judge | Details Other expeditions |
| Manfred Arnold | M | 1957 | Austria | Climber | Volders, Tirol, Austria | Railway driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Friedl Kleissl | M | 1935 | Austria | Climber | Oberperfuss, Tirol, Austria | Alpine guide & director of skiing school | Details Other expeditions |
| Ulrike Krueger | F | 1945 | W Germany | Climber | West Berlin, W Germany | Nurse | Details Other expeditions |
| Rudolf Alexander (Rudi) Mayr | M | 1956 | Austria | Acting Leader | Wattens, Tirol, Austria | Alpine guide & instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Hans-Peter Loeb | M | 1940 | Austria | Climber | Ybbs, Lower Austria, Austria | Owner, shop selling textiles (cloths) | Details Other expeditions |
| Werner Luks | M | 1940 | Austria | Climber | Ybbs, Lower Austria, Austria | Pharmacist | Details Other expeditions |
| Kurt Lyncke-Kruger | M | 1945 | W Germany | Climber | West Berlin, W Germany | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Wolfgang Nairz | M | 1944 | Austria | Leader | Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria | Staff member, Austrian Alpine Club | Details Other expeditions |
| Ernst Maurer | M | 1944 | Austria | Climber | Zirl, Tirol, Austria | Hotel owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Oswald Oelz | M | 1943 | Austria | Exp Doctor | Ebmatingen, Zurich, Switzerland | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Bernd Rotgeri | M | 1943 | Austria | Climber | Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria | Tax consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Marlene Rotgeri | F | 1944 | Austria | Climber | Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerhard Schreiner | M | 1947 | Austria | Climber | Voels, Tirol, Austria | Salesman, bathroom tiles | Details Other expeditions |
| Otto Schwarzenberger | M | 1957 | Austria | Climber | Voels, Tirol, Austria | Executive of seed company | Details Other expeditions |
| Fritz Steinberger | M | 1941 | Austria | Climber | Ybbs, Lower Austria, Austria | Owner, home construction company | Details Other expeditions |
| Josef Unterbrunner | M | 1936 | Austria | Climber | Wattens, Tirol, Austria | Factory worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Nima Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gyalgen Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GLAC83301 | AAJ | Oelz, Oswald | - | - | 58:258 (1984) | - |
| GLAC83301 | - | Mayr, Rudi | Stille Abenteuer | Steiger, Innsbruck | - | M248 |
| GLAC83301 | MM | - | - | - | 96:12 (Mar 1984) | - |
| GLAC83301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425801/Asia-Nepal-Tarke-Kang-Glacier-Dome | - | - | - |