Glacier Dome | 1983 SW side

A Austria expedition to Glacier Dome in 1983 via SW side, led by Wolfgang Nairz, Rudi Mayr. Summit reached on 22nd October 1983. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 141
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GLAC83301
Peak ID GLAC
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW side
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Wolfgang Nairz, Rudi Mayr
Sponsor Austrian Glacier Dome Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-10-14
Summit Date 1983-10-22
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 8
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7069
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/10,4400m),C1(15/10,5200m),C2(16/10,5950m),Smt(22/10)
Route Notes BC down south of Fluted Peak. 5 left C2 at 3:30 am 22 Oct on top. 4 at top 4:00 pm and Oelz at 4:30 pm. At 150m below summit Amann found very sick from altitude and thin clothing and 1 glove (was crazy) at about 5:30 pm. Oelz very exhausted and it was very cold (-35 degrees C). Had no rope because not difficult technically. Mayr and Kleissl down with Amann and arrived C2 at 8:00 pm in full moon despite Amann's fall into crevasse. 2 Sherpas arrived 9:00. Oelz having gone astray, partly because of German voice "heard" and fallen down steep ice, at 12:00 took biv in terrible icefall. BC saw him wave for help. Slept 2 hours then understood his position and went down SW Face to BC. Very steep and avalanching, went down with avalanche 100-300m flying and turning over: "I used all the luck" - stopped 400m above C2. Other Austrian summiters got him down to C2 at 9 pm on 23rd. No more to top because 20 cm fresh snow fall night of 23/24 Oct. Very dangerous between C1 and C2 and a little higher overhung by huge seracs that avalanched. Icefall in this area not very difficult but more dangerous than Khumbu Icefall. Oelz may loose tips of 3 left toes to frostbite, Amann only slight frostnip. Nairz left Nepal on urgent business call from home. Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 83 BC - 14 Oct 4400m C1 - 15 Oct 5200m C2 - 17 Oct 6000m Deepak Lama, MT - 11 Oct 83 Wolfgang Nairz received urgent Telex from his office and had to return to Austria; came to KTM on 9th and left Nepal on 10th. Rudi Mayr authorized to lead expedition.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447959
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw side

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Rainer Amann M 1932 Austria Climber Hohenems, Vorarlberg, Austria Judge Details Other expeditions
Manfred Arnold M 1957 Austria Climber Volders, Tirol, Austria Railway driver Details Other expeditions
Friedl Kleissl M 1935 Austria Climber Oberperfuss, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide & director of skiing school Details Other expeditions
Ulrike Krueger F 1945 W Germany Climber West Berlin, W Germany Nurse Details Other expeditions
Rudolf Alexander (Rudi) Mayr M 1956 Austria Acting Leader Wattens, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide & instructor Details Other expeditions
Hans-Peter Loeb M 1940 Austria Climber Ybbs, Lower Austria, Austria Owner, shop selling textiles (cloths) Details Other expeditions
Werner Luks M 1940 Austria Climber Ybbs, Lower Austria, Austria Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Kurt Lyncke-Kruger M 1945 W Germany Climber West Berlin, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Nairz M 1944 Austria Leader Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Staff member, Austrian Alpine Club Details Other expeditions
Ernst Maurer M 1944 Austria Climber Zirl, Tirol, Austria Hotel owner Details Other expeditions
Oswald Oelz M 1943 Austria Exp Doctor Ebmatingen, Zurich, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Bernd Rotgeri M 1943 Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Tax consultant Details Other expeditions
Marlene Rotgeri F 1944 Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Housewife Details Other expeditions
Gerhard Schreiner M 1947 Austria Climber Voels, Tirol, Austria Salesman, bathroom tiles Details Other expeditions
Otto Schwarzenberger M 1957 Austria Climber Voels, Tirol, Austria Executive of seed company Details Other expeditions
Fritz Steinberger M 1941 Austria Climber Ybbs, Lower Austria, Austria Owner, home construction company Details Other expeditions
Josef Unterbrunner M 1936 Austria Climber Wattens, Tirol, Austria Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Ang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Gyalgen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GLAC83301 AAJ Oelz, Oswald - - 58:258 (1984) -
GLAC83301 - Mayr, Rudi Stille Abenteuer Steiger, Innsbruck - M248
GLAC83301 MM - - - 96:12 (Mar 1984) -
GLAC83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425801/Asia-Nepal-Tarke-Kang-Glacier-Dome - - -