Ganesh III | 1984 SW Face (basically Polish 1983)

A UK expedition to Ganesh III in 1984 via SW Face (basically Polish 1983), led by Rick Allen. Summit reached on 15th October 1984. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1026
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN384302
Peak ID GAN3
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face (basically Polish 1983)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Rick Allen
Sponsor British Ganesh Himalaya Expedition 1984
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-28
Summit Date 1984-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1984-10-19
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7043
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,4300m),Biv1(07/10,5000m),Biv2(08/10,5400m),Biv3(08/10,5700m),Biv4(10/10,6000m),Biv5(11/10,6200m),Biv6(13/10,6500m),Biv7(14/10,6900m),Biv8(15/10,7100m),Smt(15/10),Biv9(15/10,7050m)
Route Notes This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's. 3-4th Oct did recce on face and left dump at foods and fuel at 5400m (Pole's 2nd biv). Started ascent on 7th Oct and climbed almost continuously for 9 days (12th Oct stayed at 6200m because biv at bad site; hanging biv in blowing snow, unable to cook). A lot of climb was extremely steep ice climbing but fixed no ropes - typical of an alpine north wall. Small risk of stone fall which concentrated in chutes ("we ran across those"). 14-16th Oct strong wind driving snow. In descent on 16th tried to go down W Ridge, where thought Swiss had made route to top. Got to col at 6200m. 17th descend back on rightish side of face. On 18th rejoined route of ascent and back at BC on 19th via ABC (lower than BC, on glacier). About thrice as high as any face in alpine: BC to top of face 2500m.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st Britons to top: unclimbed route
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448288
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face (basically polish 1983)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Richard Frank (Rick) Allen M 1954 UK Leader Aberdeen, Scotland Petroleum engineer Details Other expeditions
Nikola (Nick) Kekus M 1957 UK Climber Leeds, W Yorkshire, England Civil engineer Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN384302 AAJ Kekus, Nikola - - 59:278 (1985) -
GAN384302 AJ Kekus, Nick Annual Leave - Ganesh II South Face - 90:71-73 (1985) -
GAN384302 HJ Allen, Rick & Garin, Ronald Ganesh Himal - 42:27-34 (1984-1985) -
GAN384302 MM - - - 100:14 (Nov 1984) -
GAN384302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527801/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-II-South-Face - - -
GAN384302 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/6/ganesh-himal/ - - -
GAN384302 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1985_files/AJ%201985%2071-73%20Kekus%20Ganesh.pdf - - -