Nalakankar North | 2000 S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Nalakankar North in 2000 via S Ridge, led by Tamotsu Ohnishi. Summit reached on 6th July 2000. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3627
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NALA00201
Peak ID NALA
Year 2000
Season 2
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tamotsu Ohnishi
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Saja Khola, N to Gyo Khola & W to Nalakankar BC on east side
Basecamp Date 2000-07-03
Summit Date 2000-07-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 3
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6062
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Changwatang (CHWT-002-01) and Nalakankar South (NALS-002-01); attempted Takphu Himal (TAKP-002-01)
Campsites BC(03/07,5373m),C1(06/07,5733m),Smt(06/07)
Route Notes Mts: Changwatang, Nalakankar North and South peaks, and Takphu Himal, highest peak of Nalakankar range. Nation: Japan. Leader: Tamotsu Ohnishi. Members at end: 12. Climbing Sherpas: 4. Routes: see below with each peak. Oxygen: none. Deaths, accidents, illness: none. Source: Ohnishi Approach: air to Nepalgunj 2 June, air (helicopter) to Simikot 3 June. Trekked west to Kermi, north to Saja Khola and then east via Talsolu Khola for ascent of Changwatang (6125m). Arrived Changwatang base camp (5460m) on Talsolu Khola 23 June, pitched high camp (5738m) on 26 June, scaled West Face to summit on 28 June. Changwatang summiters: Tamotsu Ohnishi, Koji Mizutani, Nobuo Akayama, Takehiko Yanagihara; Sherpas Chuldim Nuru and Dawa. Returned to Saja Khola, north to Jokila (Gyo) Khola and west to Nalakankar base camp on east side of Nalakankar range. Arrived Nalakankar base camp (5373m) on Jokila Khola 3 July. First climbed Nalakankar North Peak (6062m). Arrived high camp (5733m) 6 July on east side of South Ridge; on same day climbed to south col and then up South Ridge to top by Yanigahara and Ang Phurba Sherpa on very easy snow and rock slope, taking 1.5 hours from high camp to top and 0.5 hours back to high camp. "Uninteresting climb - like ice cream scoop." From same high camp, climbed Nalakankar South Peak (6024m) on 7th July. Climbers attacked in two separate parties. Party A: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Chuldim Nuru and Kancha Dawa Sherpa took direct route up East Face to top (only four pitches of fixed rope on easy route icy face) in 2.45 hours and down South Ridge back to camp. Party B: Koji Mizutani, Mrs Noriko Mizutani, Isamu Fujimoto, Mrs Mitsuko Fujimoto, Akayama, Mrs Tazuko Inoue, Mrs Tomoko Sato, and Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Chuldim and Chuldim Dawa, went up North Ridge to top (only walking up rock with scattered snow patches) in 2.5 hours and then down South Ridge to same camp. All back in base camp on 7 July. On 9 July, left base camp to attempt Nalakankar range highest peak, Takphu Himal, 6422m (according to a Chinese map and border map), called Til Kang by the local people of nearest village, Til (Tilgaon). Takphu is south of South Peak. Arrived at their base at (4300m) 14 July. 15 July moved to 4618m on valley floor and pitched camp there. Stayed in camp 16th and 17th. On 18th from east side, did easy rock climbing until stopped at 5373m by hanging glacier and too much rain; went back to Tilgaon same day. Summit attempted by: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Koji Mizutani, Ang Phurba, Dawa, Chuldim Nuru. Left Tilgaon on 21 July, trekked south-southwest one day to Hilsa village. 24th trekked east to Kermi and Simikot, arrived Simikot 28th and flew to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu same day. June 6/2 KTM - Nepalgunj 6/3 Nepalgunj - Simikot 6/4 Simikot- Tuling Khola 6/5 - Kermi 6/6 - Shinjungma Khola 6/10 - Tongsa 4068m (altitude acclimatize) 6/15 - Serima tso 6/16 - Nyalu La 6/17 - Takuche 6/21 - Saja Khola 6/21 to - Changwatang (T. Ohnishi) (K. Mizutani) (N. Akayama) (T. Yanagihara) Sherpas: Chuldim Nuru and Dawa 6/22 Lalung Banjyang 6/24 5150m Banjyang 6/26 Talsolu Khola 5460m 6/27 camp 5238m Attacked 6125m peak (Changwatang) from W Face (N30 19 634) E81 53 028 6/30 Saja Khola camp returned July 7/1 Lapuche Banjyang 7/2 Gyo (Jokila) Khola 7/3 Nalakankar BC 5373m N30 22 320 E81 26 716 GPS 7/6 High camp 5733m N70 21 660 E81 24 866 Camp east side of South Ridge - from here to South Col of North Peak and up ridge to top. 1/2 hour very easy snow and rock slope. Nalakankar (North) 6062m (from high camp 1:30 to summit) South Ridge by Yanigahara and Ang Phurba and back to high camp in 1/2 hour from top. 7/7 (Attack) from high camp Nalakankar (South) N30 21 180 E81 24 365 East Face: T. Ohnishi T. Yanagihara 2 Sherpas: Chuldim Nuru, Dawa Up North Ridge - South Ridge down Mr/Ms Mizutani Mr/Ms Fujimoto Mr Akayama Ms Luoue Ms Sato 3 Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Tshering, Chuldim All returned BC same day 7/9 BC - 4930-4647m - Halje 7/12 7/14 Tilgaon (4300m) 7/15-7/18 Nalakankar highest 6422m attempted from Tilgaon base. 15th up to 4618m on valley floor, 16th and 17th stayed in camp, 18th up to 5372m in easy climbing and stopped by hanging glacier and too much rain so back to Tilgaon. 7/21 Tilgaon - 7/22 Hilsa 7/24 Hilsa - 7/28 Simikot - Nepalgunj - KTM
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454992
Year 2000
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kazuyuki Abe M 1926 Japan Climber Hirakata, Osaka, Japan Retired engineer Details Other expeditions
Nobuo Akayama M 1927 Japan Climber Takarazuka, Hyogo, Japan Retired civil servant Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Arai M 1933 Japan Climber Sakai, Osaka, Japan Retired engineer Details Other expeditions
Isamu Fujimoto M 1934 Japan Climber Takarazuka, Hyogo, Japan Retired sales engineer Details Other expeditions
Mitsuko Fujimoto F 1942 Japan Climber Takarazuka, Hyogo, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Tazuko Inoue F 1942 Japan Climber Kawanishi, Hyogo, Japan Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Koji Mizutani M 1936 Japan Climber Toyonaka, Osaka, Japan Retired architect Details Other expeditions
Noriko Mizutani F 1938 Japan Climber Toyonaka, Osaka, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Tamotsu Ohnishi M 1942 Japan Leader Osaka Sayama, Osaka, Japan Printing company executive Details Other expeditions
Tomoko Sato F 1940 Japan Climber Kawagutu, Saitama, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Takehiko Yanagihara M 1960 Japan Climber Ikuno, Osaka, Japan Printing company staff Details Other expeditions
Sadao Yoshinaga M 1932 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Owner of trucking and ship-owning company Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NALA00201 AAJ Ohnishi, Tamotsu - - 75:376-378 (2001) -
NALA00201 HIGH - - - 226:57 (Sep 2001) -
NALA00201 HJ Yoshinaga, Sadao Exploring Nepal's Least Known Mountains - 57:20-31 (2001) -
NALA00201 JAC Ohnishi, Tamotsu Wandering in the Farthest Northwest Nepal - 96:A22-25 (2001) -
NALA00201 JAC Ohnishi, Tamotsu Wandering in the Farthest Northwest Nepal - 96:137-147 (2001) -
NALA00201 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200137600/Asia-Nepal-Western-Nepal-Upper-Dolpo-Changwatang-and-Nalakankar-First-Ascents-and-Exploration-of-the-Chandi-Nalakankar-and-Takphu-Himal - - -
NALA00201 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/57/4/exploring-nepals-least-known-mountains/ - - -