Everest | 1989 S Col-SE Ridge
A Japan expedition to Everest in 1989 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Ken Kanazawa. Summit reached on 13th October 1989. 30 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 471 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER89308 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1989 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Ken Kanazawa |
| Sponsor | Kathmandu Club Autumn 1989 Everest Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 97th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1989-08-25 |
| Summit Date | 1989-10-13 |
| Summit Time | 1230 |
| Summit Days | 49 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 24 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 16 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(25/08,5350m),C1(03/09,6050m),C2(09/09,6450m),C3(17/09,7300m),C4(04/10,7950m),Smt(13/10) |
| Route Notes | C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 slightly below South Col. 5th Oct 1st attack by Mitani, H Ohnishi, Yamamoto and 2 Sherpas reached 8200m when hit by avalanche from SW Face: Ang Phurba not hit and pulled out Mitani, Yamamoto and Nawang Thile with Ohnishi, and all Ok. 2nd attack 7th Oct from col by Kurataki, Futamata, Nakanishi, Moti Lal Gurung and Tshering Dorje to 8210m and again avalanche and very strong wind. 3rd attack from BC 10th in C2, 11th to C3, 12th to C4 and started from col 13th at 2 am in full moonlight and reached top 12:30 pm. Mitani first, Lobsang, Chuldin Dorje, H Ohnishi and Yamamoto in that order; on top only few minutes because of strong wind. Japanese party was before Koreans and Mexican last. Returned to C2 same day. 4th attack 15th Oct from col without oxygen by Ando, Takahashi and Hori and then defeated by wind and down to C2. Now (15th Oct) climbing finished. Avalanches hit both times at 4:00-4:30 am. Lobsang's actual name is Tchiring Thebe Lama. This was Mitani's 6th Everest expedition, 1st success on Everest. |
| Accidents | Kurotaki frostbitten fingers (1 may be bad) |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Cosmo Treks |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449937 |
| Year | 1989 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
30 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Masaki Ando | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Yamanashi-shi, Yamanashi, Japan | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsuaki Enoi | M | 1960 | Japan | Climber | Hyogo-shi, Japan | YMCA secretary | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuji Futamata | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Surveying business | Details Other expeditions |
| Kenji Goto | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Hori | M | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Building maintenance engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Akiko Kanazawa | F | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Ken Kanazawa | M | 1945 | Japan | Leader | Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan | Dentist | Details Other expeditions |
| Junji Kurotaki | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Aomori-shi, Aomori, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuhide Kuwahara | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Dentist | Details Other expeditions |
| Toichiro Mitani | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Kotohira, Kagawa, Japan | Insurance business manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Joji Nakamura | M | 1948 | Japan | BC Manager | Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan | Dentist | Details Other expeditions |
| Norio Nakanishi | M | 1958 | Japan | Climber | Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan | Travel agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryoko Narita | F | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Nurse | Details Other expeditions |
| Keiko Nishihira | F | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Hyogo-shi, Hyogo, Japan | Pattern maker | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Ohnishi | M | 1962 | Japan | Climber | Saitama-shi, Saitama, Japan | Unemployed salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Tamotsu Ohnishi | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Osaka Sayama, Osaka, Japan | Director of printing press | Details Other expeditions |
| Junichi Shiota | M | 1950 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Yokohama, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ken Takahashi | M | 1958 | Japan | Climber | Niigata, Japan | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Kaoru Takao | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | President, medical-equipment company | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuo Tsutsumi | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Atsushi Yamamoto | M | 1962 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Salesman, department store | Details Other expeditions |
| Takehiko Yanagihara | M | 1960 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Manager, drug store | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideki Yatsuhashi | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Niigata, Japan | Owner, wine shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Tetsuaki Yoshimura | M | 1961 | Japan | Climber | Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Tchiring Chumbi (Tchiring Thebe) Sherpa | M | 1953 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Nupri (Gorkha), Gandaki Zone | High-altitude porter | Details Other expeditions |
| Chuldim (Chuldim Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1963 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khumjung, Khumbu | High-altitude porter | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Thile (Pemba Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1953 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Moti Lal Gurung | M | 1950 | Nepal | Sirdar | Sedua, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tshering Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER89308 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 64:232 (1990) | - |
| EVER89308 | JAC | Kanazawa, Ken | The Southeast Ridge of Everest | - | 85:79-81 (1990) | - |
| EVER89308 | MM | - | - | - | 131:5 (Jan 1990) | - |
| EVER89308 | IWA | - | - | - | :280 (1990) | - |
| EVER89308 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199023203/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-by-a-Mexican-Japanese-and-Koreans | - | - | - |