Changla | 1998 Changla-W Face (to 5050m)

A Japan expedition to Changla in 1998 via Changla-W Face (to 5050m), led by Tomatsu Ohnishi, Sadao Yoshinaga. Summit reached on 31st October 1998. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3225
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAN98301
Peak ID CHAN
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Changla-W Face (to 5050m)
Route 2 Changla W Peak-N Ridge-W Ridge-W Smt
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tomatsu Ohnishi, Sadao Yoshinaga
Sponsor Osaka Alpine Club Expedition to Kanti Himal & Changla
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-10-25
Summit Date 1998-10-31
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 8
Termination Date 1998-11-02
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6150
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 550
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Kanti Himal (KANT-983-01)
Campsites BC(25/10,4200m),ABC(28/10,4900m),C1(30/10,5200m),W-Smt(31/10,6162m)
Route Notes BC at Changla Khola ABC on Col (Changla Bhajang) C1 at start of North Ridge. 29th Oct all 4 climbing members and 4 climbing Sherpas tried from ABC to climb Main Peak from West Face to reach NW Ridge, but broken icefall at bottom of face stopped them after only 150m climb, so shifted attempt to Changla West Peak. 30th made C1 for ascent of West Peak from its North Ridge. 31st ascended North Ridge to West Ridge to West Peak and down to ABC: 3 climbing members and 2 Sherpas, Ang Phurba and Chuldim, left C1 at 6:00 am; fixed 550m of rope from C1 to top in soft snow; reached top at 1:00 pm in technically easy climb. 1st Nov returned to BC. Expedition spent total of almost 80 days trekking and only 6 days in climbing on Kanti Himal and Changla. Ohnishi believes official main peak, 6563m, is not Changla highest peak, but that another one 6700m high on border southeast of main peak is highest. West Summit is about 6150m, i.e. 20,177 ft. Note: Yoshinaga refers to SW Summit instead of West Summit in his journal articles.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of West Peak or any Changla Peak
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID KANT98301
Checksum 2456401
Year 1998
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) changla-w face (to 5050m)

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Satoshi Kimoto M 1956 Japan Climber Oume, Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tamotsu Ohnishi M 1942 Japan Leader Osaka Sayama, Osaka, Japan Printing company executive Details Other expeditions
Mamoru Taniguchi M 1948 Japan Climber Taya, Toyama, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Takehiko Yanagihara M 1960 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Isamu Fujimoto M 1934 Japan Member Takarazuka, Hyogo, Japan Retired Details Other expeditions
Mitsuko Fujimoto F 1942 Japan Member Hibarigaoka, Tokyo, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Tazuko Inoue F 1942 Japan Member Kawanishi, Hyogo, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Koji Mizutani M 1936 Japan Member Nishiizumioka, Toyonaka, Osaka, Japan President of Mikigumi Co. Details Other expeditions
Noriko Mizutani F 1938 Japan Member Nishiizumioka, Toyonaka, Osaka, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Tomoko Sato F 1940 Japan Member Kawaguchi, Saitama, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Senya Sumiyoshi M 1926 Japan Exp Doctor Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Sadao Yoshinaga M 1932 Japan Climbing Leader Minato, Osaka, Japan Retired shipping company owner Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chuldin Nuru (Chuldim) Sherpa M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Phurte, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHAN98301 HIGH - - - 198:42 (May 1999) -
CHAN98301 HJ Yoshinaga, Sadao Exploring Nepal's Least Known Mountains - 57:20-31 (2001) -
CHAN98301 JAC Yoshinaga, Sadao Exploring the Least Known Himalayas - 94:A27-29 (1999) -
CHAN98301 JAC Yoshinaga, Sadao Exploring the Least Known Himalayas - 94:101-113 (1999) -
CHAN98301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 73:365 (1999) -
CHAN98301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199936502/Asia-Nepal-Changla-First-Ascent - - -
CHAN98301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/57/4/exploring-nepals-least-known-mountains/ - - -