Changla | 1998 Changla-W Face (to 5050m)
A Japan expedition to Changla in 1998 via Changla-W Face (to 5050m), led by Tomatsu Ohnishi, Sadao Yoshinaga. Summit reached on 31st October 1998. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 3225 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | CHAN98301 |
| Peak ID | CHAN |
| Year | 1998 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Changla-W Face (to 5050m) |
| Route 2 | Changla W Peak-N Ridge-W Ridge-W Smt |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Tomatsu Ohnishi, Sadao Yoshinaga |
| Sponsor | Osaka Alpine Club Expedition to Kanti Himal & Changla |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1998-10-25 |
| Summit Date | 1998-10-31 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 6 |
| Total Days | 8 |
| Termination Date | 1998-11-02 |
| Termination Reason | 2 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6150 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 550 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Attempted Kanti Himal (KANT-983-01) |
| Campsites | BC(25/10,4200m),ABC(28/10,4900m),C1(30/10,5200m),W-Smt(31/10,6162m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Changla Khola ABC on Col (Changla Bhajang) C1 at start of North Ridge. 29th Oct all 4 climbing members and 4 climbing Sherpas tried from ABC to climb Main Peak from West Face to reach NW Ridge, but broken icefall at bottom of face stopped them after only 150m climb, so shifted attempt to Changla West Peak. 30th made C1 for ascent of West Peak from its North Ridge. 31st ascended North Ridge to West Ridge to West Peak and down to ABC: 3 climbing members and 2 Sherpas, Ang Phurba and Chuldim, left C1 at 6:00 am; fixed 550m of rope from C1 to top in soft snow; reached top at 1:00 pm in technically easy climb. 1st Nov returned to BC. Expedition spent total of almost 80 days trekking and only 6 days in climbing on Kanti Himal and Changla. Ohnishi believes official main peak, 6563m, is not Changla highest peak, but that another one 6700m high on border southeast of main peak is highest. West Summit is about 6150m, i.e. 20,177 ft. Note: Yoshinaga refers to SW Summit instead of West Summit in his journal articles. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | 1st ascent of West Peak or any Changla Peak |
| Agency | Cosmo Treks |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | KANT98301 |
| Checksum | 2456401 |
| Year | 1998 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | changla-w face (to 5050m) |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Satoshi Kimoto | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Oume, Tokyo, Japan | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Tamotsu Ohnishi | M | 1942 | Japan | Leader | Osaka Sayama, Osaka, Japan | Printing company executive | Details Other expeditions |
| Mamoru Taniguchi | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Taya, Toyama, Japan | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Takehiko Yanagihara | M | 1960 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Isamu Fujimoto | M | 1934 | Japan | Member | Takarazuka, Hyogo, Japan | Retired | Details Other expeditions |
| Mitsuko Fujimoto | F | 1942 | Japan | Member | Hibarigaoka, Tokyo, Japan | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Tazuko Inoue | F | 1942 | Japan | Member | Kawanishi, Hyogo, Japan | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Koji Mizutani | M | 1936 | Japan | Member | Nishiizumioka, Toyonaka, Osaka, Japan | President of Mikigumi Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Noriko Mizutani | F | 1938 | Japan | Member | Nishiizumioka, Toyonaka, Osaka, Japan | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Tomoko Sato | F | 1940 | Japan | Member | Kawaguchi, Saitama, Japan | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Senya Sumiyoshi | M | 1926 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Sadao Yoshinaga | M | 1932 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Minato, Osaka, Japan | Retired shipping company owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chuldin Nuru (Chuldim) Sherpa | M | 1966 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phurte, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CHAN98301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 198:42 (May 1999) | - |
| CHAN98301 | HJ | Yoshinaga, Sadao | Exploring Nepal's Least Known Mountains | - | 57:20-31 (2001) | - |
| CHAN98301 | JAC | Yoshinaga, Sadao | Exploring the Least Known Himalayas | - | 94:A27-29 (1999) | - |
| CHAN98301 | JAC | Yoshinaga, Sadao | Exploring the Least Known Himalayas | - | 94:101-113 (1999) | - |
| CHAN98301 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 73:365 (1999) | - |
| CHAN98301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199936502/Asia-Nepal-Changla-First-Ascent | - | - | - |
| CHAN98301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/57/4/exploring-nepals-least-known-mountains/ | - | - | - |