Tawoche | 1985 SE Face-SE Ridge
A Japan expedition to Tawoche in 1985 via SE Face-SE Ridge, led by Oh In-Hwan. Summit reached on 12th January 1986. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 971 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | TAWO85401 |
| Peak ID | TAWO |
| Year | 1985 |
| Season | 4 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Face-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Oh In-Hwan |
| Sponsor | Korean-Japanese Joint Expedition 1985-86 Winter to Tawoche |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 5th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | S Korea |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1985-12-28 |
| Summit Date | 1986-01-12 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 15 |
| Total Days | 15 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6495 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1600 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(28/12,4200m),ABC(31/12,5200m),C1(11/01,6000m),Smt(12/01) |
| Route Notes | BC at Pheriche ABC at point 5160m and 5140m southeast of Tawoche Glacier on SE Face. Koreans late arriving KTM and then bad weather prevented flights to Khumbu; arrived BC Jan 3 days after Japanese members had started climb. 5 Jan Japanese had fatal accident and stopped their climbing. Koreans resumed climb, went to BC 10 Jan. ABC occupied by Hee, Kim and Lee plus Ang Phurba. C1 only Heo and Ang Phurba, who went up small SE Face to SE Ridge and up final very steep rock. Fixed 600m rope as they climbed above point where Japanese members fixed rope ended to top: total 1600m fixed rope on most of entire route from ABC. Very difficult rock climbing, Heo and Ang Phurba say. No accidents amongst Koreans as per Japanese party report of 14 Jan (Ohnishi). 4 Jan to 5600m below ridge. 5 Jan biv 5800m by H. Nakamura, Irisawa and Morizane. This highest point reached by Japanese members. Heo went later to mountain to try solo ascent but difficult route. Korean members arrived Nepal late, were not all members he had met, did not bring equipment and mountain food (used gear brought by Ohnishi). Kakomoto fell from point 10m below SE Ridge where steep ice met very soft snow. Fell 800m down steep section. Morizane rope burn on left hand. |
| Accidents | One Japanese climber Kakomoto killed in fall; none amongst Koreans |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450003 |
| Year | 1985 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se face-se ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Young-Ho Heo | M | 1954 | S Korea | Climber | Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk, S Korea | Cement company clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Syunji Irisawa | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Ibaragi, Osaka, Japan | Local government official | Details Other expeditions |
| Atsuyoshi Kakomoto | M | 1958 | Japan | Climber | Toyanaka, Osaka, Japan | Engineer (Hitachi Shipbuilding Co.) | Details Other expeditions |
| Tae-Sup Kim | M | 1941 | S Korea | Member | Seoul, S Korea | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Bong-Houn Lee | M | 1946 | S Korea | Member | Seoul, S Korea | Clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Masakazu Morizane | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Tsurumi-ku, Osaka, Japan | Engineer (Fujisawa Medicines Co.) | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Nakamura | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Sakai, Osaka, Japan | Chemical engineer, Dai-Nippon Ink Chemical Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Teruhiko Nakamura | M | 1959 | Japan | Climber | Minamikawa, Osaka, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| In-Hwan Oh | M | 1946 | S Korea | Leader | Seoul, S Korea | Travel agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Tamotsu Ohnishi | M | 1942 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Minamikawa, Osaka, Japan | Director of printing company | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | Sirdar | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| In-Ok Hong | F | 1950 | S Korea | BC Manager | Seoul, S Korea | Travel agent | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TAWO85401 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 60:221 (1986) | - |
| TAWO85401 | MM | - | - | - | 110:10 (Jul 1986) | - |
| TAWO85401 | IWA | - | - | - | :269 (1987) | - |
| TAWO85401 | IWA | - | - | - | :45-46 (1986) | - |
| TAWO85401 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198622101/Asia-Nepal-Tawoche-Winter-Ascent-and-Tragedy | - | - | - |