Tawoche | 1985 SE Face-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Tawoche in 1985 via SE Face-SE Ridge, led by Oh In-Hwan. Summit reached on 12th January 1986. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 971
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TAWO85401
Peak ID TAWO
Year 1985
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Oh In-Hwan
Sponsor Korean-Japanese Joint Expedition 1985-86 Winter to Tawoche
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries S Korea
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-12-28
Summit Date 1986-01-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 15
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6495
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 1600
Total Members 11
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/12,4200m),ABC(31/12,5200m),C1(11/01,6000m),Smt(12/01)
Route Notes BC at Pheriche ABC at point 5160m and 5140m southeast of Tawoche Glacier on SE Face. Koreans late arriving KTM and then bad weather prevented flights to Khumbu; arrived BC Jan 3 days after Japanese members had started climb. 5 Jan Japanese had fatal accident and stopped their climbing. Koreans resumed climb, went to BC 10 Jan. ABC occupied by Hee, Kim and Lee plus Ang Phurba. C1 only Heo and Ang Phurba, who went up small SE Face to SE Ridge and up final very steep rock. Fixed 600m rope as they climbed above point where Japanese members fixed rope ended to top: total 1600m fixed rope on most of entire route from ABC. Very difficult rock climbing, Heo and Ang Phurba say. No accidents amongst Koreans as per Japanese party report of 14 Jan (Ohnishi). 4 Jan to 5600m below ridge. 5 Jan biv 5800m by H. Nakamura, Irisawa and Morizane. This highest point reached by Japanese members. Heo went later to mountain to try solo ascent but difficult route. Korean members arrived Nepal late, were not all members he had met, did not bring equipment and mountain food (used gear brought by Ohnishi). Kakomoto fell from point 10m below SE Ridge where steep ice met very soft snow. Fell 800m down steep section. Morizane rope burn on left hand.
Accidents One Japanese climber Kakomoto killed in fall; none amongst Koreans
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450003
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-se ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Young-Ho Heo M 1954 S Korea Climber Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk, S Korea Cement company clerk Details Other expeditions
Syunji Irisawa M 1948 Japan Climber Ibaragi, Osaka, Japan Local government official Details Other expeditions
Atsuyoshi Kakomoto M 1958 Japan Climber Toyanaka, Osaka, Japan Engineer (Hitachi Shipbuilding Co.) Details Other expeditions
Tae-Sup Kim M 1941 S Korea Member Seoul, S Korea Teacher Details Other expeditions
Bong-Houn Lee M 1946 S Korea Member Seoul, S Korea Clerk Details Other expeditions
Masakazu Morizane M 1945 Japan Climber Tsurumi-ku, Osaka, Japan Engineer (Fujisawa Medicines Co.) Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Nakamura M 1951 Japan Climber Sakai, Osaka, Japan Chemical engineer, Dai-Nippon Ink Chemical Co. Details Other expeditions
Teruhiko Nakamura M 1959 Japan Climber Minamikawa, Osaka, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
In-Hwan Oh M 1946 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Tamotsu Ohnishi M 1942 Japan Deputy Leader Minamikawa, Osaka, Japan Director of printing company Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
In-Ok Hong F 1950 S Korea BC Manager Seoul, S Korea Travel agent Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TAWO85401 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:221 (1986) -
TAWO85401 MM - - - 110:10 (Jul 1986) -
TAWO85401 IWA - - - :269 (1987) -
TAWO85401 IWA - - - :45-46 (1986) -
TAWO85401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198622101/Asia-Nepal-Tawoche-Winter-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -