Baruntse | 1954 SE Ridge
A New Zealand expedition to Baruntse in 1954 via SE Ridge, led by Edmund Hillary. Summit reached on 29th May 1954. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2542 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | BARU54101 |
| Peak ID | BARU |
| Year | 1954 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | New Zealand |
| Leaders | Edmund Hillary |
| Sponsor | New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st,2nd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | UK |
| Approach | Arun->Barun Valley->Sherpani Col |
| Basecamp Date | 1954-05-26 |
| Summit Date | 1954-05-29 |
| Summit Time | 1630 |
| Summit Days | 3 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7152 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 15 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01), Chago (CHAG-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and Makalu II (MAK2-541-01); recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02) |
| Campsites | BC(26/05),C1(27/05),C2(28/05,6700m),Smt(29/05,01/06) |
| Route Notes | Ed Hillary - 7 March 79 1954 dozen 20,000ers by ten climbers Baruntse via South Ridge for both parties Pethangtse via South glacier (glaciated ridge) Chago ? Cho Polu - Hardie + ? route Nau Lekh - 1st ascent by Beaven + ? route ? probably from north from Nau Lekh Glacier |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2440041 |
| Year | 1954 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Geoff Harrow | M | 1926 | New Zealand | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Edmund Percival Hillary | M | 1919 | New Zealand | Leader | Auckland, New Zealand | Apiarist & alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Colin MacDonald Todd | M | 1927 | New Zealand | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Wallace George Lowe | M | 1924 | New Zealand | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| William B. (Bill) Beaven | M | 1926 | New Zealand | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Charles Evans | M | 1918 | UK | Deputy Leader | Liverpool, Merseyside, England | Physician (surgeon) | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Ball | M | - | UK | Exp Doctor | - | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Norman David Hardie | M | 1924 | New Zealand | Climber | Christchurch, New Zealand | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| James C. (Jim) McFarlane | M | 1925 | New Zealand | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Brian J. Wilkins | M | 1925 | New Zealand | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
11 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| BARU54101 | - | Hillary, Edmund & Lowe, George | East of Everest | Hodder & Stoughton, London | - | H317 |
| BARU54101 | AJ | Lowe, George | The Barun Expedition, 1954 | - | 60:227-238 (Nov 1955) | - |
| BARU54101 | AAJ | Lowe, George | - | - | 29:179-180 (1955) | - |
| BARU54101 | - | Lowe, George | Because It Is There | Cassell, London | - | L293 |
| BARU54101 | MW | Lowe, George | An Expedition to the Barun Valley | - | 97-110 (1955) | - |
| BARU54101 | MW | Kurz, Marcel | The Himalayan Chronicle 1954 | - | 113-114 (1955) | - |
| BARU54101 | - | Hardie, Norman | On My Own Two Feet | Canterbury University Press, Christchurch, NZ | - | - |
| BARU54101 | NZAJ | Hillary, E.P., et al | The New Zealand Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition, 1954 | - | 16:5-53 (1955) | - |
| BARU54101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517902/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Barun-Valley | - | - | - |
| BARU54101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%20227-238%20Lowe%20Barun%20Exped.pdf | - | - | - |
| BARU54101 | NGS | Hillary, Edmund | Beyond Everest | - | 108-5:579-610 (Nov 1955) | - |