Baruntse | 1954 SE Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Baruntse in 1954 via SE Ridge, led by Edmund Hillary. Summit reached on 29th May 1954. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2542
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU54101
Peak ID BARU
Year 1954
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Edmund Hillary
Sponsor New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st,2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Arun->Barun Valley->Sherpani Col
Basecamp Date 1954-05-26
Summit Date 1954-05-29
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 3
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7152
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 15
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01), Chago (CHAG-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and Makalu II (MAK2-541-01); recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02)
Campsites BC(26/05),C1(27/05),C2(28/05,6700m),Smt(29/05,01/06)
Route Notes Ed Hillary - 7 March 79 1954 dozen 20,000ers by ten climbers Baruntse via South Ridge for both parties Pethangtse via South glacier (glaciated ridge) Chago ? Cho Polu - Hardie + ? route Nau Lekh - 1st ascent by Beaven + ? route ? probably from north from Nau Lekh Glacier
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2440041
Year 1954
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Geoff Harrow M 1926 New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Edmund Percival Hillary M 1919 New Zealand Leader Auckland, New Zealand Apiarist & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Colin MacDonald Todd M 1927 New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Wallace George Lowe M 1924 New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions
William B. (Bill) Beaven M 1926 New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Robert Charles Evans M 1918 UK Deputy Leader Liverpool, Merseyside, England Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Michael Ball M - UK Exp Doctor - Physician Details Other expeditions
Norman David Hardie M 1924 New Zealand Climber Christchurch, New Zealand Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
James C. (Jim) McFarlane M 1925 New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Brian J. Wilkins M 1925 New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU54101 - Hillary, Edmund & Lowe, George East of Everest Hodder & Stoughton, London - H317
BARU54101 AJ Lowe, George The Barun Expedition, 1954 - 60:227-238 (Nov 1955) -
BARU54101 AAJ Lowe, George - - 29:179-180 (1955) -
BARU54101 - Lowe, George Because It Is There Cassell, London - L293
BARU54101 MW Lowe, George An Expedition to the Barun Valley - 97-110 (1955) -
BARU54101 MW Kurz, Marcel The Himalayan Chronicle 1954 - 113-114 (1955) -
BARU54101 - Hardie, Norman On My Own Two Feet Canterbury University Press, Christchurch, NZ - -
BARU54101 NZAJ Hillary, E.P., et al The New Zealand Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition, 1954 - 16:5-53 (1955) -
BARU54101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517902/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Barun-Valley - - -
BARU54101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%20227-238%20Lowe%20Barun%20Exped.pdf - - -
BARU54101 NGS Hillary, Edmund Beyond Everest - 108-5:579-610 (Nov 1955) -