Tukuche | 2023 NW Ridge?

A France expedition to Tukuche in 2023 via NW Ridge?, led by Paulo Grobel. Summit reached on 8th October 2023. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11308
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TUKU23301
Peak ID TUKU
Year 2023
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge?
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Paulo Grobel
Sponsor Paulo Grobel Tukuche Expedition 2023
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium
Approach Jomsom->Marpha->Yak Kharka->Dhampus Pass
Basecamp Date 2023-10-02
Summit Date 2023-10-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 13
Termination Date 2023-10-15
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to high winds
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/10,5186m),C1(07/10,5000m),xxx(08/10,6000m)
Route Notes Approach: Jomsom, Marpha, Yack Kharka, Dhampus Pass (5244m) BC 02/10 5186m For Tukuche : C1 07/10 5500m For Phurba Kang C1 10/10 5660m C2 12/10 6300m C3 14/10 6050m Smt see details of climb Left BC on 15 Oct Route: SSE Ridge of Sanu Phurba SSE Ridge of Phurba Kang “Rigsum Gompo traverse” by peaks 6292m (“Chenrezi”), 6264m (“Manjushri”) and 6072m (“Cima Giannetti”) on the ESE Ridge Oxygen: not taken not used Records: 1st link up of all the peaks? Other peaks: Peaks 6339m, 6419m, 6292m, 6264m and 6072m Accidents: fall into a crevasse for Paulo. Details of climb: Had a permit for Tukuche, but with wrong weather conditions (strong west wind), the team abandoned its initial project for other sheltered peaks to the north. Hired: 5 Dipen Nuppa Bhote Sonam Sherpa Dugchong Bhote Anil Rai (not the one in the HD) Wanda Sherpa/Bhote • Tukuche attempt: The team first aimed for Tukuche, but the west winds were too strong for an attempt so that the team switched to another project. The team (6+5) slept at C1 (5500m) on Oct 7. On the day after they stopped just before C2 at 6000m. Back to BC on Oct 9. • Phurba Kang and “Rigsum Gompo” traverse: Instead, with 3 camps and in alpine-style they climbed the kind of horseshoe of snowy ridge skyline peaks lying east to Hongde and Mukot (peaks 6339m, 6419m, 6292m, 6264m). 10 Oct: walk up to C1, down to “Sanu Phurba”. All slept here except Dugchong Bhote who touched C1 then went back to BC. 11 Oct: up to C2 to fairy load and down to C1. Bernard decided to stop here, going back down to BC on his own the same day. 12 Oct: up to C2 for sleeping. A magnificent camp “above the clouds” lying atop of the 6339m christened “Sanu Phurba”. Anil Rai made a deposit and also went back down BC. 13 Oct: ascent of Phurba Kang (6419m) by its SSE Ridge in a roundtrip from C2. First the members went up unroped, then roped as the slope got steeper: Dipen roped with Jan, Sonam with Kin, Paulo with Isa. They reached the summit at 11 am, then back to C2 at 2 pm where they would sleep (3h up, 2h down). Dipen Nuppa Bhote went back down to BC on the same day. Wanda Sherpa/Bhote come up to sleep at C2 ant to help Jan. To be noticed that Phurba Kang alternative name is “Hongde Shar” (Jurgalski), sorting it as climbed already by a Japanese team on 7 October 1969. 14 Oct: Jan, being tired, and Wanda went directly back down to the BC on this day. Meanwhile, for the remaining 4 members (Kimn and Sonam, Paulo and Isa), day started with the traverse northwards, down the East Face of Sanu Phurba, to join the 6134m col. After 15mn walk, Paulo fell in a thin crevasse, hurting his chest, but he decided to resume the ascent. The 30° access slopes to the cwm were prone to slab avalanche, but nothing occurred, happily. Then on the glacier, deep snow yet with visible crevasses didn’t ease the progression. After a simple rimaye crossed, the team touched the ridge, soon reaching the first of the three peaks of the “Rigsum Gompo traverse” (“the three protectors”): peak 6292m (“Chenrezi”). From then the traverse went smoothly, yet a bit windy and with heavy bags. They had to climb two small snow pitches before reaching peak 6264m (“Manjushri”). On descent of the latter, the team reached a large flat area down to Peak 6072m at 4 pm, making it its C3. *To be noticed that in 2021 from the east side, Isa and Dipen had already topped Manjushri (6264m) and Alain Giannetti had attempted peak 6072m (now christened “Cima Giannetti”). 15 Oct: Team had to negotiate the numerous crevasses on the summit glacier of “Cima Giannetti”, then it went smoothly back down to BC in the Hidden Valley. At the BC where they found back Bernard, Hughes and Jan, they had the surprise to see that the whole team was starting to remove the BC on the other side of Dhampus Pass (because the donkies would not cross Dhampus Pass to pick up the equipment). 16 Oct: the team left BC to Marpha (directly) and Isabelle, Paulo & Wanda crossed again Dhamphus Pass to do a camp in the Hidden Valley and do the Round Dhaulagiri Trek.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Travellers Nepal
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464274
Year 2023
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge?

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Paul Marc (Paulo) Grobel M 1957 France Leader La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide & journalist Details Other expeditions
Laurent Jean Philippe Catusse M 1961 France Climber Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France - Details Other expeditions
Marie-Noelle Corre F 1961 France Climber Le Thor, Vaucluse, France - Details Other expeditions
Jen De Cooman M 1959 Belgium Climber Leuven, Belgium Retired Details Other expeditions
Isabelle Anne Julie Guillaume F 1975 France Climber Jacob-Bellecombette, Savoie, France Budget control manager Details Other expeditions
Bernard Jean-Marie Meurin M 1958 France Climber Armentieres, Nord, France Teacher Details Other expeditions
Kin Shanho Eilaou Minouni M 1992 France Climber Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Hughes Alain Jacques Marie Riverieulx de Varax M 1958 France Climber Versailles, Yvelines, France Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TUKU23301 - - http://www.paulogrobel.com/phurba-kang-2023/ - - -