Tilicho | 1990 S Ridge-S Face

A UK expedition to Tilicho in 1990 via S Ridge-S Face, led by Matthew Dower. Summit reached on 20th October 1990. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	650
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Peak ID	TILI
Year	1990
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	S Ridge-S Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	UK
Leaders	Matthew Dower
Sponsor	British Army Tilicho Peak Expedition
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1990-09-28
Summit Date	1990-10-20
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	22
Total Days	25
Termination Date	1990-10-23
Termination Reason	10
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 6500m due to difficult head wall
High Point (m)	6500
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	2
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	6
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	True
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(28/09,4360m),ABC(30/09,5040m),C1(04/10,5430m),C2(10/10,5730m),Biv(20/10,6300m),xxx(20/10,6500m)
Route Notes	BC at normal Annapurna I North Face BC's site ABC below a ridge running south 500m about thing upper head wall=S Face C2 below upper headwall Biv at only ridge possible without hammock on S Face. Had more camps than perhaps normal because wanted to do new route and were looking at mountain that normally need 2 high camps. 1st climbing problem was to gain S Ridge and forced serac and southern end of this ridge. Fixed 250m to C1 at beginning of snow ridge, the S Ridge. Lost 6 kg and up of food to crows (Tibetan ravens?) at ABC. Ridge not technically difficult: no cornices. Upper head wall next which is 1000m high and ends at snow plateau. Loose shale rock with only 2 small ledges but ice fields and snow fluting. No campsites. Fixed ropes between 6000m and 6300m and then accident: Dower 12th Oct was soloing above fixed ropes when he fell at 150m (fixing rope not yet finished) and fell 50 vertical meters broke arm and fractured/clipped his pelvis. Hickie and Helmore got him down and Ridoutt rushed to Jomsom to summon a helicopter which removed him from BC 16th Oct. Now remaining climbers very tired and Dower's unnecessary risk cost the others the summit. Resumed climb on 16th and fixed more rope. 20th Oct summit bid from C2 but climb on head wall harder than expected and got only to 6500m. Steep shaley rock and snow flutings = dangerous and steep route. Had no sleeping gear with them and getting dark so bivouacked in open at 6300m and down to C2 on 21st; no food in C2 and now Donnini now acute altitude sickness (and put on Spanish oxygen) and Ridoutt retreated with hemorrhage, so now only 2 fit climbers (doctor non-climber really and busy with sick members). C3 needed a snow plateau. Decided to stop attempt to climb on 22 Oct and went on again only to strip mountain (decision taken at C2).
Accidents	Dower fell
Achievement	-
Agency	Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2451795
Year	1990
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	Used
Route (lowercase)	s ridge-s face

Members

Field	Value
ID	21384
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	TILI
Year	1990
Season	3
First Name	Charles
Last Name	Beardmore
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1965
Calculated Age	24
Citizenship	UK
Status	Exp Doctor
Residence	Swansea, Wales
Occupation	Physician (Lieutenant in Royal Army Medical Corps)
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	14
HCN	0
Checksum	2437197
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	charles beardmore
Year of Birth	1965
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	21385
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	TILI
Year	1990
Season	3
First Name	Dominil
Last Name	Donnini
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1967
Calculated Age	23
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Billingham, Cleveland, England
Occupation	Officer cadet in Royal Engineers
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1990-10-20
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	True
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	True
Injury Date	1990-10-20
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	1
Injury Height (m)	6300
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	6
HCN	0
Checksum	2437746
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	dominil donnini
Year of Birth	1967
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	23
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	21386
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	TILI
Year	1990
Season	3
First Name	Matthew
Last Name	Dower
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1962
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	UK
Status	Leader
Residence	Walsall, W Midlands, England
Occupation	Army Captain (Royal Engineers)
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6450
Summit Date 1	1990-10-12
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	True
Injury Date	1990-10-12
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	4
Injury Height (m)	6450
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2435843
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	matthew dower
Year of Birth	1962
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	21387
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	TILI
Year	1990
Season	3
First Name	Steven
Last Name	Helmore
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	UK
Status	Deputy Leader
Residence	Billingstadsletta, Norway
Occupation	Geophysicist (civilian)
Leader	False
Deputy	True
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6500
Summit Date 1	1990-10-20
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	12
HCN	0
Checksum	2434692
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	steven helmore
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Deputy

Field	Value
ID	21388
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Member ID	05
Peak ID	TILI
Year	1990
Season	3
First Name	Patrick
Last Name	Hickie
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1963
Calculated Age	27
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Oakham, Leicester, England
Occupation	Army Captain (artillery)
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6500
Summit Date 1	1990-10-20
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	12
HCN	0
Checksum	2436326
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	patrick hickie
Year of Birth	1963
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	27
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	21389
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Member ID	06
Peak ID	TILI
Year	1990
Season	3
First Name	Ade
Last Name	Ridoutt
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1964
Calculated Age	26
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Arbroath, Angus, Scotland
Occupation	Corporal in Royal Engineers
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1990-10-20
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	3
Summit Term	9
HCN	0
Checksum	2436691
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ade ridoutt
Year of Birth	1964
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	26
Role	Member

6 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Charles Beardmore	M	1965	UK	Exp Doctor	Swansea, Wales	Physician (Lieutenant in Royal Army Medical Corps)	Details Other expeditions
Dominil Donnini	M	1967	UK	Climber	Billingham, Cleveland, England	Officer cadet in Royal Engineers	Details Other expeditions
Matthew Dower	M	1962	UK	Leader	Walsall, W Midlands, England	Army Captain (Royal Engineers)	Details Other expeditions
Steven Helmore	M	1958	UK	Deputy Leader	Billingstadsletta, Norway	Geophysicist (civilian)	Details Other expeditions
Patrick Hickie	M	1963	UK	Climber	Oakham, Leicester, England	Army Captain (artillery)	Details Other expeditions
Ade Ridoutt	M	1964	UK	Climber	Arbroath, Angus, Scotland	Corporal in Royal Engineers	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	2356
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Reference ID	01
Year	1990
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Hawley, Elizabeth
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1991
Language	-
Citation	65:241 (1991)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4593
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Reference ID	02
Year	1990
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1991
Language	-
Citation	138:9 (Mar 1991)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	11622
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	TILI90301
Reference ID	03
Year	1990
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124101/Asia-Nepal-Tilitso-Attempts
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
TILI90301	AAJ	Hawley, Elizabeth	-	-	65:241 (1991)	-
TILI90301	MM	-	-	-	138:9 (Mar 1991)	-
TILI90301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124101/Asia-Nepal-Tilitso-Attempts	-	-	-