Tilicho | 1984 N Face-N Ridge
A France expedition to Tilicho in 1984 via N Face-N Ridge, led by Emmanuel Schmutz. Summit reached on 27th October 1984. 33 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1016 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | TILI84301 |
| Peak ID | TILI |
| Year | 1984 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face-N Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Emmanuel Schmutz |
| Sponsor | Yak & Yeti Expedition to Tilicho |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Belgium, Spain |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1984-10-18 |
| Summit Date | 1984-10-27 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 9 |
| Total Days | 12 |
| Termination Date | 1984-10-30 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6600m due to strong winds |
| High Point (m) | 6600 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 33 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(18/10,4800m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6200m),xxx(27/10,6600m) |
| Route Notes | BC as same as Group I (northwest shore of Tilicho Lake) C1 on top of first spur C2 on NW Ridge High point on NW Ridge. Technically not difficult, 1st spur rock is Grade 3. At top of this just below C1 65 degrees snow. But first climb in Himalaya for all in Spanish group including leader. Left BC 30th Oct for Jomsom via Mesokanto Pass which is very steep on far side (NW). Not on mountain, but one member got frostbitten finger on Mesokanto Pass as did seven porters in fingers and toes: just strong very cold wind. Autumn 1984 Tilicho French-Spanish: After expedition climbing finished, 7 local porters left in snowstorm and no members took any care of them - were between BC and Jomsom. On 31 Oct were taken to Jomsom hospital by 2 LO's and Dr. there suggested they be taken to KTM for treatment of smaller feet and hands. HMG asked trekking agent to provide funds to bring them to KTM and give treatment. Only then agent acted and they were given treatment and recovered. HMG asked leader through agent to report regarding incident as per rules but he never turned up. Agent said was out of KTM on trek: Rule 23 violated: neither leader or anyone on his behalf turned up. Therefore as per Rule 38 of Tourism Act HMG debarred Schmutz to participate in expedition for 5 years from 1984 autumn and have asked Federation Francaise de la Montagne, who recommended his expedition, to brief and meet all mountaineers before to abide by our regulations strictly and to maintain spirit of mountaineering for purpose of international friendship. Federation reply from Maurice Barrord, says very sorry; [HMG] decision seems justified and if we find Schmutz did as reported, Company will not sponsor him for any expeditions. |
| Accidents | 1 member frostbitten finger and seven porters frostbitten fingers and toes on Mesokanto Pass (strong very, cold wind) |
| Achievement | 1st Spanish attempt on mountain |
| Agency | Amtrek |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449605 |
| Year | 1984 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face-n ridge |
Members
33 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alvaro Almendral Munoz | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Malpartida de Plasencia, Caceres, Spain | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Manuel Aparicio Zaragaga | M | 1959 | Spain | Climber | Plasencia, Caceres, Spain | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Aubert | M | 1924 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Industrial | Details Other expeditions |
| Jose Ramon Bacelar Azpeitia | M | 1954 | Spain | Climber | Madrid, Spain | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Regis Boudin | M | 1956 | France | Climber | Chantilly, Oise, France | Airline official | Details Other expeditions |
| Manuel Casas Martin | M | 1955 | Spain | Climber | Caceres, Spain | Mountaineering federation official | Details Other expeditions |
| Romualdo Domenech Brotons | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Elche, Alicante, Spain | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Duffort | M | 1941 | France | Climber | Pau, Pyrenees-Atlantiques, France | Trains people for new jobs (animatrue de formation) | Details Other expeditions |
| Michel Fauve | M | 1958 | France | Climber | Toul, Meurthe-et-Moselle, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Manuel Ferrandiz Monllor | M | 1951 | Spain | Climber | San Juan, Alicante, Spain | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Henri Fischgrund | M | 1946 | Belgium | Climber | Brussels, Belgium | Society administrator | Details Other expeditions |
| Michel Flosse | M | 1952 | France | Climber | Rennes, Ille-et-Vilaine, France | Financial employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Pablo Gonzalez Campos | M | 1960 | Spain | Climber | Plasencia, Caceres, Spain | Painter | Details Other expeditions |
| Marie-Francoise Goudet | F | 1943 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Geographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Francois Grevy | M | 1940 | France | Exp Doctor | Sallanches, Haute-Savoie, France | Physician (surgeon) | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Guede | M | 1949 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Press reporter | Details Other expeditions |
| Martine Bernadette Iselin | F | 1959 | France | Climber | Meudon, Hauts-de-Seine, France | Beautician | Details Other expeditions |
| Claude Jaccoux | M | 1933 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Marie Jose Litzler | F | 1945 | France | Climber | Strasbourg, Bas-Rhin, France | Employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Christiane Maire | F | 1959 | France | Climber | Grenoble, Isere, France | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Dominique Mathieu-Goudier | M | 1957 | France | Climber | Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Louis Mignot | M | 1952 | France | Climber | Le Raincy, Seine-St-Denis, France | Society manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Paffumi | M | 1937 | France | Climber | Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France | Maker of models | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Francois Prudhomme | M | 1946 | France | Climber | Marseille, Bouches-du-Rhone, France | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Monique Prudhomme-Fabre | F | 1948 | France | Climber | Marseille, Bouches-du-Rhone, France | Nurse | Details Other expeditions |
| Vicente Andres Quesada Iborra | M | 1961 | Spain | Climber | Alicante, Spain | Designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Michel Roux | M | 1961 | France | Climber | Digne-les-Bains, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, France | Cabinetmaker | Details Other expeditions |
| Claude Rupe | M | 1953 | France | Climber | Salins-les-Bains, Jura, France | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Cristobal Salas Menargves | M | 1951 | Spain | Climber | Alicante, Spain | Pharmacist | Details Other expeditions |
| Emanuel Schmutz | M | 1955 | France | Leader | Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Marc Testut | M | 1948 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Maurice Viard | M | 1924 | France | Climber | Sallanches, Haute-Savoie, France | Insurance agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Aldolfo Sanchez Meson | M | 1964 | Spain | Climber | Plasencia, Caceres, Spain | Student | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TILI84301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 59:291 (1985) | - |
| TILI84301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529101/Asia-Nepal-Tilitso-Attempt | - | - | - |