Tilicho | 1984 N Face-N Ridge

A France expedition to Tilicho in 1984 via N Face-N Ridge, led by Emmanuel Schmutz. Summit reached on 27th October 1984. 33 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1016
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TILI84301
Peak ID TILI
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Emmanuel Schmutz
Sponsor Yak & Yeti Expedition to Tilicho
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium, Spain
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-10-18
Summit Date 1984-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 12
Termination Date 1984-10-30
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 33
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/10,4800m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6200m),xxx(27/10,6600m)
Route Notes BC as same as Group I (northwest shore of Tilicho Lake) C1 on top of first spur C2 on NW Ridge High point on NW Ridge. Technically not difficult, 1st spur rock is Grade 3. At top of this just below C1 65 degrees snow. But first climb in Himalaya for all in Spanish group including leader. Left BC 30th Oct for Jomsom via Mesokanto Pass which is very steep on far side (NW). Not on mountain, but one member got frostbitten finger on Mesokanto Pass as did seven porters in fingers and toes: just strong very cold wind. Autumn 1984 Tilicho French-Spanish: After expedition climbing finished, 7 local porters left in snowstorm and no members took any care of them - were between BC and Jomsom. On 31 Oct were taken to Jomsom hospital by 2 LO's and Dr. there suggested they be taken to KTM for treatment of smaller feet and hands. HMG asked trekking agent to provide funds to bring them to KTM and give treatment. Only then agent acted and they were given treatment and recovered. HMG asked leader through agent to report regarding incident as per rules but he never turned up. Agent said was out of KTM on trek: Rule 23 violated: neither leader or anyone on his behalf turned up. Therefore as per Rule 38 of Tourism Act HMG debarred Schmutz to participate in expedition for 5 years from 1984 autumn and have asked Federation Francaise de la Montagne, who recommended his expedition, to brief and meet all mountaineers before to abide by our regulations strictly and to maintain spirit of mountaineering for purpose of international friendship. Federation reply from Maurice Barrord, says very sorry; [HMG] decision seems justified and if we find Schmutz did as reported, Company will not sponsor him for any expeditions.
Accidents 1 member frostbitten finger and seven porters frostbitten fingers and toes on Mesokanto Pass (strong very, cold wind)
Achievement 1st Spanish attempt on mountain
Agency Amtrek
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449605
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-n ridge

Members

33 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alvaro Almendral Munoz M 1958 Spain Climber Malpartida de Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Manuel Aparicio Zaragaga M 1959 Spain Climber Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Student Details Other expeditions
Jean Aubert M 1924 France Climber Paris, France Industrial Details Other expeditions
Jose Ramon Bacelar Azpeitia M 1954 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Regis Boudin M 1956 France Climber Chantilly, Oise, France Airline official Details Other expeditions
Manuel Casas Martin M 1955 Spain Climber Caceres, Spain Mountaineering federation official Details Other expeditions
Romualdo Domenech Brotons M 1958 Spain Climber Elche, Alicante, Spain Businessman Details Other expeditions
Jean Duffort M 1941 France Climber Pau, Pyrenees-Atlantiques, France Trains people for new jobs (animatrue de formation) Details Other expeditions
Michel Fauve M 1958 France Climber Toul, Meurthe-et-Moselle, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Manuel Ferrandiz Monllor M 1951 Spain Climber San Juan, Alicante, Spain Teacher Details Other expeditions
Henri Fischgrund M 1946 Belgium Climber Brussels, Belgium Society administrator Details Other expeditions
Michel Flosse M 1952 France Climber Rennes, Ille-et-Vilaine, France Financial employee Details Other expeditions
Pablo Gonzalez Campos M 1960 Spain Climber Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Painter Details Other expeditions
Marie-Francoise Goudet F 1943 France Climber Paris, France Geographer Details Other expeditions
Alain Francois Grevy M 1940 France Exp Doctor Sallanches, Haute-Savoie, France Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Alain Guede M 1949 France Climber Paris, France Press reporter Details Other expeditions
Martine Bernadette Iselin F 1959 France Climber Meudon, Hauts-de-Seine, France Beautician Details Other expeditions
Claude Jaccoux M 1933 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marie Jose Litzler F 1945 France Climber Strasbourg, Bas-Rhin, France Employee Details Other expeditions
Christiane Maire F 1959 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Technician Details Other expeditions
Dominique Mathieu-Goudier M 1957 France Climber Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jean-Louis Mignot M 1952 France Climber Le Raincy, Seine-St-Denis, France Society manager Details Other expeditions
Mario Paffumi M 1937 France Climber Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France Maker of models Details Other expeditions
Jean-Francois Prudhomme M 1946 France Climber Marseille, Bouches-du-Rhone, France Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Monique Prudhomme-Fabre F 1948 France Climber Marseille, Bouches-du-Rhone, France Nurse Details Other expeditions
Vicente Andres Quesada Iborra M 1961 Spain Climber Alicante, Spain Designer Details Other expeditions
Michel Roux M 1961 France Climber Digne-les-Bains, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, France Cabinetmaker Details Other expeditions
Claude Rupe M 1953 France Climber Salins-les-Bains, Jura, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Cristobal Salas Menargves M 1951 Spain Climber Alicante, Spain Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Emanuel Schmutz M 1955 France Leader Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marc Testut M 1948 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maurice Viard M 1924 France Climber Sallanches, Haute-Savoie, France Insurance agent Details Other expeditions
Aldolfo Sanchez Meson M 1964 Spain Climber Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Student Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TILI84301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:291 (1985) -
TILI84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529101/Asia-Nepal-Tilitso-Attempt - - -