Tilicho | 1981 N Ridge

A Nepal expedition to Tilicho in 1981 via N Ridge, led by Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa. Summit reached on 24th January 1982. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1775
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TILI81401
Peak ID TILI
Year 1981
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-01-17
Summit Date 1982-01-24
Summit Time 1345
Summit Days 7
Total Days 10
Termination Date 1982-01-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7134
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/01,4400m),C1(18/01,5130m),C2(22/01,5630m),C3(23/01,6455m),Smt(24/01)
Route Notes Col Bohra - 8 June 82 Bohra (leader of Spring 1982 Tilicho expedition) wonders how the Sherpas succeeded as they claim last winter. Bohra's expedition found their tent at C1, but no indication they had been higher. No question of losing route cause there is only one ridge (NE Ridge) to follow from there. Tilicho North Ridge (all 3 members) - 7 Feb 82 Returned to KTM 4 Feb. Left KTM 9 Jan and reached BC 17th Jan at 4400m only because lot of snow and porters would not go higher. BC below "n" in Mesokantu La on around Annapurna map north-northwest of Tilicho. From there glacier went over a kind of pass southwest of Mesokantu La. C1 on southeast side of this pass and west of Tilicho Lake near where had intended to put BC. Reached C1 5130m 18th Jan and ferried all loads in 3 days 20 Jan rest day in BC. 21 Jan carried last loads to C1 and looked for route. 22 Jan moved up to new camp at 5630m on NW Ridge. 23 Jan C3 at 6455m across rock ridge on blue ice on west side of ridge and south of C2. 24 Jan to summit up steep small face close to ridge. Started from C3 6:45 am and on top 1:45 pm. Lot of blue ice. Snow falling after 11:30 am and wind. On top about 10 minutes in strong wind; could see only 10m ahead 11:00 to summit. Sure they were on summit because mountain has only one summit, as they saw earlier in climb. Descended to C3 on 24 Jan at 6:00+ pm, nearly dark. 25 Jan couldn't find tent left at C1 because of snow, so on down looking for BC at 8:30 pm, but LO and cook had moved BC, so spent night at its site without tent and not using wet sleeping bags but with mattresses over head probably safe from snow falling but not much from wind. 26 Jan found new BC at 9:00 am not far away. Heavy snow fall that night. 27 Jan left BC. 2 days to Jomsom through very deep snow sometimes ahead as deep at their heights, 5 feet. Moved until late at night. No accidents, frostbite or illness. All 3 members climbed together all days from 18 to 26 Jan and no one with them above BC. Tilicho, Ang Sharkey - 5 Jan 82 Porters leave 6 Jan and 3 members leave 9 Jan and catch up with porters at Jomsom. Thence to Kesang Khola and Tilicho La to BC. Route = North Ridge (normal route) Arrive BC 17-18 Jan at 17,500 feet. Will make a C1 about 19,000 feet and 9 days BC to summit if weather is perfect. Must finish climb by 31 Jan as no permit to climb in Feb. Started organizing expedition late because of trekking job and didn't realize how long paper work would take. Only 3 above BC. At BC will be LO, cook boy for LO, and mailrunner. No oxygen. Return to KTM about 15 Feb.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448595
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ang Sharkey Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Taksindu, Solukhumbu Trek and mountain sirdar for SCT Details Other expeditions
Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal Leader Khamje (Junbesi), Solukhumbu Trek and mountain sirdar for SCT Details Other expeditions
Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TILI81401 AAJ Sherpa, Sarkey Tshering - - 57:243-244 (1983) -
TILI81401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324302/Asia-Nepal-Tilicho-Sherpa-Winter-Ascent - - -