Tilicho | 1980 NE Spur-N Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Tilicho in 1980 via NE Spur-N Ridge, led by Guido Bumann. Summit reached on 30th October 1980. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1894
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TILI80301
Peak ID TILI
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Spur-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Guido Bumann
Sponsor Swiss Tilicho Expedition 1980
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th,5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-10-23
Summit Date 1980-10-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 7
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7134
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/10,4870m),C1(28/10,6100m),Smt(30-31/10)
Route Notes Bumann - 13 Nov 80 BC 23 Oct - 4870m C1 28 Oct - 6100m Summit bit more than 7000m, maybe 7030m Summit 30 Oct - Braun Renner Summit 31 Oct - Zurfluh Werner Kappenberger Krishneswar Rai Bumann returned from summit bid because not well. Route = NE Spur to North Ridge, so-called French route as French did 1st ascent of it in 1978. Better snow conditions especially the higher zones than French had - better packed. No accidents, etc. Some altitude sickness because so quick. Did not know before coming to KTM that had to stop climb by end October. Steeper then expected: fixed 700-800m rope (on NE Ridge only). Had to use Japanese and Swiss fixed ropes which found on lowest part of North Ridge (which did not climb). Had porter problem getting to BC and were delayed; was festival time. All arrived KTM yesterday. Bumann (leader) - 7 Oct 80 Swiss Tilicho Expedition 1980 Route = North Ridge, same as 1979 or spring 1980 expeditions (which had different routes at lower part of mountain but North Ridge higher up). All 8 members now in KTM Hope to leave after 3 or 4 days depending on baggage from Delhi Perhaps leave in 2 parties 12 days to BC at 4900-5000m, 20 days climbing. BC near Tilicho Lake between Lake and Mesokantu La 2 camps above BC - C2 about 6500m No Sherpas above BC. Medical oxygen only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448143
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne spur-n ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Martin Braun M 1952 Switzerland Climber Uznach, St. Gallen, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Guido Bumann M 1952 Switzerland Leader Saas-Fee, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giovanni Kappenberger M 1948 Switzerland Climber Locarno, Ticino, Switzerland Meteorologist Details Other expeditions
Peter Rambach M 1947 W Germany Climber St. Peter, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Veronika Reichardt F 1954 Switzerland Climber Zurich, Switzerland Student Details Other expeditions
Walter Renner M 1954 Switzerland Climber Andermatt, Uri, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hein Werner M 1952 Switzerland Climber Zurich, Switzerland Mathematician Details Other expeditions
Hans-Rudolf Zurfluh M 1949 Switzerland Climber Therwil, Basel, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Krishneswar Rai M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TILI80301 AAJ Bumann, Guido - - 55:265 (1981) -
TILI80301 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
TILI80301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126503/Asia-Nepal-Tilicho-Third-Ascent - - -