Tilicho | 1980 N Ridge

A W Germany expedition to Tilicho in 1980 via N Ridge, led by Joerg Biel. Summit reached on 1st May 1980. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1867
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TILI80101
Peak ID TILI
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Joerg Biel
Sponsor Joint German-Swiss Expedition to Mt. Tilicho
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-04-22
Summit Date 1980-05-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned after 6100m on 1 May because of bad weather
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/04,5500m),xxx(01/05,6100m)
Route Notes BC established at 5500m between Tilicho Lake and North Ridge 22 April. Second party arrived there 23 April. Tried summit 1 May. No real higher camps. Found Japanese fixed ropes which refixed and used them up to 6000m. Wanted to make C1 at about 6000m. Took 3 days to repair Japanese routes and doing this 1 Sherpa cut his finger and could no longer climb. 1 climbing member Zurbriggen got serious altitude sickness and had to be taken down on way to Jomsom; doctor went with him towards Jomsom. 2:00 am 1 May Biel and Lohmatter and 3 Sherpas started from BC to go to top. Reached 6000m where had supplies at 11:00 am. Only 1 Sherpa to be used for this ascent, so sent back all 3 and then 2 members up to see route above. Reached 6100m maximum altitude. Then heavy thunderstorm so descended and gave up attempt. Only 2 climbing members now on mountain and Sherpas useless. Also too dangerous to go on. Were on North Ridge = Japanese route. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 80 Abandoned after 6250m on 1 May because bad weather. Dr Biel - 3 April 80 2 here now, rest arrive 14th. Biel leaves Saturday/Sunday and walk to Manang from Dumre while rest fly to Jomsom. BC between Tilicho Lake and North Ridge , Route = North Ridge. Probably same as Japanese spring 1979. Hasn't seen ridge from last expedition. Biel was on Tilicho North Ridge in 1972 from west side. Was with Swiss guide and 2 locals and reached 6000m just at beginning of ridge. Was May and much snow and avalanching. Biel makes BC at about 5500m. Goes with 20 porters and reaches BC about 15 April. Others fly to Jomsom 17th and cross Thorung La. At BC 21st April. 1 camp above BC on ridge at about 6500m above 2 small ice ridges which are difficult part of route. Perhaps only 1 Sherpa above BC, but here 4 total. Don't count on others who are Tamangs going above BC. Above BC definitely will be sirdar Ang Kami who has been with Swiss before. Oxygen medical only. 1 week, or 2 weeks at most to summit from BC. On summit by beginning of May latest. Joint German-Swiss Expedition to Mt. Tilicho.
Accidents Zurbriggen got serious altitude sickness; one Sherpa cut his finger and could no longer climb
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447961
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joerg Biel M 1943 W Germany Leader Neuffen, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Archeologist Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Blanck M 1950 W Germany Member Jettenburg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Aldo Lohmatter M 1953 Switzerland Climber Saas-Fee, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christina Ohlson F 1939 UK Member Neuffen, W Germany Illustrator Details Other expeditions
Cesar Zurbriggen M 1926 Switzerland Deputy Leader Saas-Fee, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Tsermadingma, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TILI80101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:265 (1981) -
TILI80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126502/Asia-Nepal-Tilicho-Attempt - - -