Tilicho | 1979 N Ridge

A Japan expedition to Tilicho in 1979 via N Ridge, led by Yoshimi Yakushi. Summit reached on 26th April 1979. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2081
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TILI79101
Peak ID TILI
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yoshimi Yakushi
Sponsor Japan Tomari Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Marshyangdi Valley->Khangsar
Basecamp Date 1979-04-03
Summit Date 1979-04-26
Summit Time 0745
Summit Days 23
Total Days 26
Termination Date 1979-04-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7134
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,4200m),ABC(07/04,5050m),C1(14/04,5200m),C2(24/04,6000m),Biv(25/04,7000m),Smt(26/04)
Route Notes Saeki & summiters - 12 May 79 1st summit group on 25th; left C2 and biv at 7000m. Route difficult, so went to top only on 26th. 2nd party left C2 4:00 am and reached top after nearly 8 hours, at 13:50 hours. Araki's left big toe frostbitten during biv night. Route = North Ridge: rock ridge difficult from C1 to C2. No C3 because thought no need, only snow face. ABC to C2 long distance - lake traverse. Route more difficult than expected especially C1 to C2 on rock ridge, very sharp and unsound. All members in KTM and Ok except Araki's toe. No accidents or serious illness. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 2 May 79 Summit via North Ridge 26 April by: Mingma Tenzing Sherpa Takashi Araki Haruo Yamamoto in 1st group at 7:45 am on top. Also on 26 April by: Najang Yonden Sherpa Yutaka Ohe in 2nd group at 13:50 hours. Expedition finished. Leaving BC 29 April. Yakushi & Saeki - 13 March 79 Japan Tomari Himalayan Expedition: Route = North Ridge (doubts French climbed East Ridge which is Great Barrier). Approach via Marshyangdi Khola because Kali Gandaki closed. North of Tilicho Lake make BC 4900m at foot of glacier feeding lake from west. All now in KTM. Arrived 11 March. Leave KTM about 18 March and begin caravan 21-22 March with about 60 porters; 13-14 days to BC, arrive 4 or 5 April. 15 years ago Yakushi did recce. Only 1 or 2 camps above BC. C1 at about 5500m on ridge and C2 about 6400m also on ridge. Summit about 25 April or 2-3 days later. 3 H-A Sherpas including sirdar Lhakpa Tenzing. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. Most difficult is North Ridge: half snow and half rock; rock in lower part and rock part most difficult because very sharp ridge.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447589
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takashi Araki M 1947 Japan Climber Uozu, Toyama, Japan Makes rubber stamps Details Other expeditions
Fumitaka Koyama M 1943 Japan Exp Doctor Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Ohe M 1959 Japan Climber Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan Science student at Toyama University Details Other expeditions
Akira Ohta M 1937 Japan Climber Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan Engineer with electric-power company Details Other expeditions
Ikuo Saeki M 1935 Japan Climbing Leader Uozu, Toyama, Japan Proprietor of sporting-goods shop Details Other expeditions
Hitoshi Tsuji M 1941 Japan Climber Kurobe, Toyama, Japan High school teacher of physical education Details Other expeditions
Haruo Yamamoto M 1951 Japan Climber Kamiichi, Toyama, Japan Office worker, gas company Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Yoshimi Yakushi M 1936 Japan Leader Kyoto, Japan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa M 1940 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TILI79101 AAJ Yakushi, Yoshimi - - 53:628 (1980) -
TILI79101 HJ Yakushi, Yoshimi Tilitso Himal 1979 - 36:183-184 (1978-79) -
TILI79101 JAC Yakushi, Yoshimi Tilitso Himal, 1979 - 74:16-18 (1979) -
TILI79101 IWA - - - 74:155 (1980) -
TILI79101 IWA - - - 74:46 (1980) -
TILI79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062801/Asia-Nepal-Tilicho-Second-Ascent - - -
TILI79101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/33/expeditions-and-notes-36/ - - -