Tilicho | 1979 N Ridge
A Japan expedition to Tilicho in 1979 via N Ridge, led by Yoshimi Yakushi. Summit reached on 26th April 1979. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2081 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | TILI79101 |
| Peak ID | TILI |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Yoshimi Yakushi |
| Sponsor | Japan Tomari Himalayan Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd,3rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Marshyangdi Valley->Khangsar |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-04-03 |
| Summit Date | 1979-04-26 |
| Summit Time | 0745 |
| Summit Days | 23 |
| Total Days | 26 |
| Termination Date | 1979-04-29 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7134 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/04,4200m),ABC(07/04,5050m),C1(14/04,5200m),C2(24/04,6000m),Biv(25/04,7000m),Smt(26/04) |
| Route Notes | Saeki & summiters - 12 May 79 1st summit group on 25th; left C2 and biv at 7000m. Route difficult, so went to top only on 26th. 2nd party left C2 4:00 am and reached top after nearly 8 hours, at 13:50 hours. Araki's left big toe frostbitten during biv night. Route = North Ridge: rock ridge difficult from C1 to C2. No C3 because thought no need, only snow face. ABC to C2 long distance - lake traverse. Route more difficult than expected especially C1 to C2 on rock ridge, very sharp and unsound. All members in KTM and Ok except Araki's toe. No accidents or serious illness. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 2 May 79 Summit via North Ridge 26 April by: Mingma Tenzing Sherpa Takashi Araki Haruo Yamamoto in 1st group at 7:45 am on top. Also on 26 April by: Najang Yonden Sherpa Yutaka Ohe in 2nd group at 13:50 hours. Expedition finished. Leaving BC 29 April. Yakushi & Saeki - 13 March 79 Japan Tomari Himalayan Expedition: Route = North Ridge (doubts French climbed East Ridge which is Great Barrier). Approach via Marshyangdi Khola because Kali Gandaki closed. North of Tilicho Lake make BC 4900m at foot of glacier feeding lake from west. All now in KTM. Arrived 11 March. Leave KTM about 18 March and begin caravan 21-22 March with about 60 porters; 13-14 days to BC, arrive 4 or 5 April. 15 years ago Yakushi did recce. Only 1 or 2 camps above BC. C1 at about 5500m on ridge and C2 about 6400m also on ridge. Summit about 25 April or 2-3 days later. 3 H-A Sherpas including sirdar Lhakpa Tenzing. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. Most difficult is North Ridge: half snow and half rock; rock in lower part and rock part most difficult because very sharp ridge. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447589 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Takashi Araki | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Uozu, Toyama, Japan | Makes rubber stamps | Details Other expeditions |
| Fumitaka Koyama | M | 1943 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Yutaka Ohe | M | 1959 | Japan | Climber | Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan | Science student at Toyama University | Details Other expeditions |
| Akira Ohta | M | 1937 | Japan | Climber | Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan | Engineer with electric-power company | Details Other expeditions |
| Ikuo Saeki | M | 1935 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Uozu, Toyama, Japan | Proprietor of sporting-goods shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Hitoshi Tsuji | M | 1941 | Japan | Climber | Kurobe, Toyama, Japan | High school teacher of physical education | Details Other expeditions |
| Haruo Yamamoto | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Kamiichi, Toyama, Japan | Office worker, gas company | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Yonden Sherpa | M | 1952 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshimi Yakushi | M | 1936 | Japan | Leader | Kyoto, Japan | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa | M | 1940 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TILI79101 | AAJ | Yakushi, Yoshimi | - | - | 53:628 (1980) | - |
| TILI79101 | HJ | Yakushi, Yoshimi | Tilitso Himal 1979 | - | 36:183-184 (1978-79) | - |
| TILI79101 | JAC | Yakushi, Yoshimi | Tilitso Himal, 1979 | - | 74:16-18 (1979) | - |
| TILI79101 | IWA | - | - | - | 74:155 (1980) | - |
| TILI79101 | IWA | - | - | - | 74:46 (1980) | - |
| TILI79101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062801/Asia-Nepal-Tilicho-Second-Ascent | - | - | - |
| TILI79101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/33/expeditions-and-notes-36/ | - | - | - |