Tilicho | 1978 NE Spur-N Ridge

A France expedition to Tilicho in 1978 via NE Spur-N Ridge, led by Roger Emin. Summit reached on 10th October 1978. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2157
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TILI78301
Peak ID TILI
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Spur-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Roger Emin
Sponsor Exped. of the Peloton Gendarmerie de Haute Montanne de Chamonix
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries -
Approach Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley->Tilicho Lake (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-10-01
Summit Date 1978-10-10
Summit Time 1515
Summit Days 9
Total Days 13
Termination Date 1978-10-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7134
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/10,4900m),C1(08/10,6100m),Smt(10/10)
Route Notes Schmutz - 1 Oct 84 Indignantly denies 1978 ascent was via East Ridge and only to an East Summit; were definitely on North Ridge to main summit. Dr Joerg Beil (German-Swiss Tilicho exped Spr 1980) - 3 April 80 French Tilicho: Aut 1978. Biel thinks French climbed East Ridge to an east summit only, not main summit. Tilicho leader (Emin) - 18th Oct 1978 Very poor, only 1 Sherpa. If send more to summit would take 1 week to put them there with supplies which members must carry up. 70 cms snow and wind - often 1 hour, no tracks - for descent no tracks. Want make climb as in Alps without many Sherpas and many camps. Necessary to work for one or 2 members on top, and even to put 2 on top would have required too much unnecessary time effort. Must be in France 26 Oct and report for work on 27th Oct. BC 20m near Tilicho Lake. 1 hour to foot of ridge, then fixed rope for 6 days to make C1 - 1000m difficult to C1 site on East Ridge. Schmutz went to top without any thing on his back, so other member [Emin] had to carry reaching all way to top. Avalanches on face but not on expedition's ridge. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 78 Summit by Emmanuel Schmutz. From only one high camp. Team effort so satisfied with one man on top. Much snow. Leader and deputy leader now in KTM; arrived yesterday evening; rest here after 4 days. Schmutz - 13 Sept 78 Pokhara-Dumre-Marshyangdi-Tilicho Lake BC at 4900m near Lake route is East Ridge, we think, but not sure since no one has been on mountain before. All now in KTM. Leave for Pokhara Saturday if possible. Arrive BC about 29 Sept; 12 days march with 40 porters 2 Sherpas above BC Only 1 camp; as much as possible alpine-style; very little fixed rope if any C1 about 6000m where angle of ridge changes. Oxygen only medical Summit by end Oct. Depends on mountain's conditions: maybe very quick after 4-5 days acclimatization at BC. Back in KTM by 26 Oct is target. Most difficult 300m very steep below C1 and 300m above C1 - D grade.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447390
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne spur-n ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Herve Boissonnet M 1954 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Neurosurgeon Details Other expeditions
Roger Emin M 1947 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Member of gendarmerie for mountain rescue work & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bernard Lagarrigue M 1948 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Journalist (Public relations) Details Other expeditions
Emanuel Schmutz M 1955 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Member of gendarmerie for mountain rescue work & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marc Testut M 1948 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Member of gendarmerie for mountain rescue work & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bernard Ravier M - France Climber - Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TILI78301 AAJ Schmutz, Emanuel - - 53:273 (1979) -
TILI78301 - Emin, Roger Himalaya: Tilicho 7132 metres Chamonix, France - E73
TILI78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927302/Asia-Nepal-Tilicho - - -