Tengi Ragi Tau | 2004 N Ridge from E

A Japan expedition to Tengi Ragi Tau in 2004 via N Ridge from E, led by Ryozai Nakamura. Summit reached on 5th May 2004. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4658
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TENR04101
Peak ID TENR
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge from E
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ryozai Nakamura
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club Tengi Ragi Tau Senior Expedition 2004
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Thami Og->Langmoche village
Basecamp Date 2004-04-18
Summit Date 2004-05-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 23
Termination Date 2004-05-11
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6250m due to route difficulty and lack of supplies
High Point (m) 6250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 2750
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,4750m),C1(21/04,5300m),C2(27/04,5800m),xxx(05/05,6250m)
Route Notes BC at plateau atop hill west of small river and east of small peak called Penlaka C1 on glacier C2 on col due north of Tengi Ragi Tau High point at steep wall of North Ridge. From C1 west to north end of col (point 5890m) on Schneider map of Khumbu. Very windy at col; up icy steep (650m) wall to rock slab where ice so thin and covered by snow to 6250m (top of wall is 6600m); fixed 250m ropes here. Stopped by rock slab where could find no hold and too dangerous to continue; so now on 5th May the only day of clear weather, so back to C2 by Fuji and 5 Sherpas. Fuji wanted to find alternate route but no other member went above 6000m and Sherpas did not want to continue the climb. Now only 2-3 days of food in C2 and only 100m rope left. Sherpas had really wasted a lot of rope in unnecessary places out of their concern for members age. On 6 May, descended to BC. Had tried to pass ridge on mountain right side on 28th April but waist-deep snow ended that idea; tried by same 5 Sherpas. Fuji only member above 6000m; all 5 others to 6000m but no higher. Fuji arrived 17 Apr; to Lukla 18 Apr, arrived BC 21 Apr.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456710
Year 2004
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge from e

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Masayoshi Fujii M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan President of marketing company for motor vehichles Details Other expeditions
Isao Iguchi M 1945 Japan Climber Takane, Yamanashi, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Ryozai Nakamura M 1943 Japan Leader Tokorozawa, Saitama, Japan Retired chemist Details Other expeditions
Hisa Naruse F 1946 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Yoshimoto Naruse M 1946 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Minoru Tsubakuro M 1942 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kinza (Kancha?) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TENR04101 CLIM - - - 5:86 (Jul 2005) -
TENR04101 AAJ Fujii, Masayoshi - - 79:388 (2005) -
TENR04101 JAN Fujii, Masayoshi Attempt on North Ridge of Tengi Ragi Tau - 6:58-60 (May 2005) -
TENR04101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200538800/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Region-Rolwaling-Himal-Chekigo-Attempt - - -
TENR04101 - - http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol6/jan-vol6-58-60.pdf - - -