Lugula | 2019 NW Ridge from N
A France expedition to Lugula in 2019 via NW Ridge from N, led by Paulo Grobel. Summit reached on 5th October 2019. 23 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 10446 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LUGU19301 |
| Peak ID | LUGU |
| Year | 2019 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge from N |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Paulo Grobel |
| Sponsor | Paulo Grobel Lugula Expedition 2019 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Italy, Netherlands |
| Approach | Besisahar->Phu_>Bhrikuti Shail BC |
| Basecamp Date | 2019-09-24 |
| Summit Date | 2019-10-05 |
| Summit Time | 1100 |
| Summit Days | 11 |
| Total Days | 17 |
| Termination Date | 2019-10-11 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6899 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 10 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 8 |
| Summit Hired | 6 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Summited Julie Himal (6337m), Shelka Kangri (6358m) and Bhrikuti Shail (BHRS-193-01) |
| Campsites | BC(24/09,5000m),C1(28/09,5640m),C2(01/10,6200m),C3(04/10,6350m),Smt(05-06/10) |
| Route Notes | BC 24/09 5000m (Bhrikuti Shail BC) C1 28/09 5640m (Bhrikuti Shail High BC) C2 01/10 6200m (at Tirhawa La) C3 04/10 6350m (on glacier called "Minerva Snowfield" by Koreans in 2014) Smt 05/10 06/10 (see details below). Team first planned to climb Lugula from Damodar Kunda lakes in Mustang, then to carry on with the Bhrikuti traverse. Following a ministry of interior decision to add trekking permit cost to mountaineering expeditions in restricted areas, team changed its plans to climb Lugula from Phu side, climbing at first Bhrikuti Shail. Despite bad weather conditions, the team achieved both at separate periods, this through NW Ridge (located in Chinese territory). In addition, several different teams climbed other peaks surrounding. Team left BC on 11 Oct (members left BC on 6, 9 and 11 Oct). Oxygen: Not taken, not used Summit (Lugula): 5 Oct: Isabelle Guillaume, Luc Gianetti, Philippe Henry, Paulo Grobel, Dipen Bhote and Sajjan Gale. 6 Oct: Reinier Zuidhoff, Folkert Bloembergen, Menno Frantzen, Marjolein Meere, Jean-Pierre Desforges and Sergio de Leo along with Dhan Magar, Karma Sherpa, Dipen Bhote, Sonam Sherpa and Amrit Tamang. 6 Oct: attempt of the full NW Ridge up to c.6600m, reached from a lower C3 by Isabelle Guillaume and Paulo Grobel. Duet intended a traverse, down by SW Ridge. Members back to BC between 5 and 9 of Oct. Summit (Julie Himal) by E Ridge: 2 Oct: by Hugues de Varax, Paulo Grobel, Philippe Henry, Stanislas Fouquier and Karma Sherpa. 4 Oct: by Sergio de Leo and Karma Sherpa. Summit (Shelka Kangri), first ascent via Julie Himal's traverse, then E Ridge: 4 Oct: by Sergio de Leo and Karma Sherpa. Summit (Bhrikuti Shail): by southern slopes to the col, then SW Ridge: 1 Oct: Isabelle Guillaume, Luc Gianetti and Paulo Grobel. 4 Oct: Reinier Zuidhoff, Folkert Bloembergen, Menno Frantzen and Marjolein Meere. 5 Oct: Philippe Cholat-Namy, Hugues De Varax, Stanislas Fouquier and Dorje Bhote. 8 Oct: Traverse by northeast slopes from Minerva glacier up, down by SE Ridge by Isabelle Guillaume, Paulo Grobel, Dipen Bhote and Anil Rai. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | 1st ascent of Selka Kangri, 1st ascent of Lugula NW Ridge, 1st traverse of Bhrikuti Shail (up by NE Cwm, down by SE Ridge). |
| Agency | Himalayan Travellers Nepal |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2461906 |
| Year | 2019 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge from n |
Members
23 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dhan Bahadur Magar | M | 1986 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Wapsa, Waku-8, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Marc (Paulo) Grobel | M | 1957 | France | Leader | La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide & journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Folkert Auke Bloembergen | M | 1960 | Netherlands | Climber | Wassenaar, Netherlands | Information technology consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Philippe Denis Gabriel Cholat-Namy | M | 1958 | France | Climber | Saint-Egreve, Isere, Essonne, France | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergio De Leo | M | 1963 | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Aosta, Italy | Official for environmental protection | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Pierre Deforges | M | 1949 | France | Climber | Saverdun, Ariege, France | Retired | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislas Alain Raymond Fourquier | M | 1967 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Bookseller | Details Other expeditions |
| Menno Frantzen | M | 1992 | Netherlands | Climber | Amsterdam, Netherlands | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Giannetti | M | 1957 | France | Climber | Freissinieres, Haute-Alpes, France | Acrobatic works | Details Other expeditions |
| Luc Giannetti | M | 1991 | France | Climber | Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France | Acrobatic work | Details Other expeditions |
| Isabelle Anne Julie Guillaume | F | 1975 | France | Climber | Jacob-Bellecombette, Savoie, France | Budget control manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Philippe Maurice Henry | M | 1987 | France | Climber | Rodez, Aveyron, France | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjolein Meere | F | 1959 | Netherlands | Climber | Amsterdam, Netherlands | Gymnastics teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Hendrik Oussoren | M | 1962 | Netherlands | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Hughes Alain Jacques Marie Riverieulx de Varax | M | 1958 | France | Climber | Versailles, Yvelines, France | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Eltjo Reint Jan (Reinier) Zuidhoff | M | 1951 | Netherlands | Climber | Molenhoek, Netherlands | Information technology marketing consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Dipen Nuppa Bhote | M | 1996 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dorche/Dharche Bhote | M | 1983 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sajjan Ghale | M | 1995 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Yarsa-9, Rasuwa | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Amrit Raj Magar | M | 1991 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Waku-8, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Anil Kulung Rai | M | 1995 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Bung-5, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chhetar (Sonam) Sherpa | M | 1989 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Bala-2, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Karma Sherpa | M | 1981 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kimathanka-8, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LUGU19301 | - | - | http://www.paulogrobel.com/retex-lugula-2019/ | - | - | - |
| LUGU19301 | AAJ | Grobel, Paulo | Lugula, Northwest Ridge Over Bhrikuti Shail; Selka Kangri, East Ridge | - | 94:314 (2020) | - |
| LUGU19301 | - | Grobel, Paulo | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215505 | - | - | - |