Lhotse Shar | 1989 SE Ridge
A S Korea expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1989 via SE Ridge, led by Han Gwang-Geol. Summit reached on 4th October 1989. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 350 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LSHR89301 |
| Peak ID | LSHR |
| Year | 1989 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | S Korea |
| Leaders | Han Gwang-Geol |
| Sponsor | 1989 Korean Lhotse Shar Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 7th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1989-08-21 |
| Summit Date | 1989-10-04 |
| Summit Time | 1500 |
| Summit Days | 44 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8382 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 4575 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 12 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(21/08,5200m),C1(04/09,5700m),C2(09/09,6100m),C3(17/09,7000m),C4(24/09,7700m),C5(03/10,8100m),Smt(04/10) |
| Route Notes | C1 sited slightly different from plan to avoid soft deep snow and get onto rock. Route above C2 not changed from plan. Weather very bad: much snow and strong wind. Summiters started 6:30 am and on top 3:00 pm, very tired in wind blowing snow and fog (could see 3m only); on top 5-6 min only, could not stand in wind) back to C4 6:15 pm same day. Left on top a snowbar with carabinier and flag of mountain school. Had reached on East Peak at 12:30 pm also in bad weather and poor visibility and little tired, but after 10-15 mins weather better and decision taken by leader and team they should proceed to top. Route not difficult. Total 4575m rope fixed C1 to E Peak almost entire route (E Peak about 600m from C5). Many avalanches but very lucky and no one hurt (Rinji making route to C5 hit and fell 100m but after on hour's rest was Ok). Oxygen was taken for expedition, but difficulties with it prevented its use. |
| Accidents | Rinji fell 100m after hit by avalanche on Sep 25 but after an hour's rest was OK |
| Achievement | 1st Korean ascent |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450648 |
| Year | 1989 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sung-Ho An | M | 1961 | S Korea | Climber | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | Car salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Jae-Woo Cha | M | 1951 | S Korea | Deputy Leader | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | High school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Young-Ho Chun | M | 1960 | S Korea | Climber | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | Staff member, mountaineering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Gwang-Geol Han | M | 1944 | S Korea | Leader | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | Physical education professor at university | Details Other expeditions |
| Young-Jin Jung | M | 1964 | S Korea | Climber | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | University student | Details Other expeditions |
| Sung-Do Kang | M | 1959 | S Korea | Climber | Tongyeong (Chungmu), Gyeongsangnam, S Korea | Manager of fish and oyster farm | Details Other expeditions |
| Young-Soo Kim | M | 1958 | S Korea | Climbing Leader | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | Staff member, mountaineering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Chun-Sik Kwon | M | 1962 | S Korea | Climber | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | Office worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Young-Hak Lee | M | 1963 | S Korea | Climber | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | University graduate student | Details Other expeditions |
| Jong-Ho Ma | M | 1958 | S Korea | Climber | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | Office worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Jae-Wook Park | M | 1964 | S Korea | Climber | Daegu (Taegu), S Korea | University student | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Wangchu Sherpa | M | 1958 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharte, Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Rinji Sherpa | M | 1956 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LSHR89301 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 64:223 (1990) | - |
| LSHR89301 | HJ | Han Gwang-Geol | Horrible, But Honorable Lhotse Shar | - | 47:35-41 (1989-1990) | - |
| LSHR89301 | - | Han, Gwang-Geol | Horrible, But Honorable Lhotse Shar | Daegu Mountaineering School, Daegu, South Korea | - | - |
| LSHR89301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022304/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar | - | - | - |
| LSHR89301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/47/6/horrible-but-honourable-lhotse-shar/ | - | - | - |