Lhotse Shar | 1989 SE Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1989 via SE Ridge, led by Han Gwang-Geol. Summit reached on 4th October 1989. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 350
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR89301
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Han Gwang-Geol
Sponsor 1989 Korean Lhotse Shar Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-08-21
Summit Date 1989-10-04
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 44
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8382
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 4575
Total Members 11
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/08,5200m),C1(04/09,5700m),C2(09/09,6100m),C3(17/09,7000m),C4(24/09,7700m),C5(03/10,8100m),Smt(04/10)
Route Notes C1 sited slightly different from plan to avoid soft deep snow and get onto rock. Route above C2 not changed from plan. Weather very bad: much snow and strong wind. Summiters started 6:30 am and on top 3:00 pm, very tired in wind blowing snow and fog (could see 3m only); on top 5-6 min only, could not stand in wind) back to C4 6:15 pm same day. Left on top a snowbar with carabinier and flag of mountain school. Had reached on East Peak at 12:30 pm also in bad weather and poor visibility and little tired, but after 10-15 mins weather better and decision taken by leader and team they should proceed to top. Route not difficult. Total 4575m rope fixed C1 to E Peak almost entire route (E Peak about 600m from C5). Many avalanches but very lucky and no one hurt (Rinji making route to C5 hit and fell 100m but after on hour's rest was Ok). Oxygen was taken for expedition, but difficulties with it prevented its use.
Accidents Rinji fell 100m after hit by avalanche on Sep 25 but after an hour's rest was OK
Achievement 1st Korean ascent
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450648
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sung-Ho An M 1961 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Car salesman Details Other expeditions
Jae-Woo Cha M 1951 S Korea Deputy Leader Daegu (Taegu), S Korea High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Young-Ho Chun M 1960 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Staff member, mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Gwang-Geol Han M 1944 S Korea Leader Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Physical education professor at university Details Other expeditions
Young-Jin Jung M 1964 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea University student Details Other expeditions
Sung-Do Kang M 1959 S Korea Climber Tongyeong (Chungmu), Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Manager of fish and oyster farm Details Other expeditions
Young-Soo Kim M 1958 S Korea Climbing Leader Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Staff member, mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Chun-Sik Kwon M 1962 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Young-Hak Lee M 1963 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea University graduate student Details Other expeditions
Jong-Ho Ma M 1958 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Jae-Wook Park M 1964 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea University student Details Other expeditions
Dawa Wangchu Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Kharte, Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Rinji Sherpa M 1956 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR89301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:223 (1990) -
LSHR89301 HJ Han Gwang-Geol Horrible, But Honorable Lhotse Shar - 47:35-41 (1989-1990) -
LSHR89301 - Han, Gwang-Geol Horrible, But Honorable Lhotse Shar Daegu Mountaineering School, Daegu, South Korea - -
LSHR89301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022304/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar - - -
LSHR89301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/47/6/horrible-but-honourable-lhotse-shar/ - - -