Lhotse | 1956 W Face
A Switzerland expedition to Lhotse in 1956 via W Face, led by Albert Eggler. Summit reached on 18th May 1956. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2541 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LHOT56101 |
| Peak ID | LHOT |
| Year | 1956 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Switzerland |
| Leaders | Albert Eggler |
| Sponsor | Swiss Expedition to Everest and Lhotse 1956 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1956-04-07 |
| Summit Date | 1956-05-18 |
| Summit Time | 1450 |
| Summit Days | 41 |
| Total Days | 54 |
| Termination Date | 1956-05-31 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8516 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 28 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Everest (EVER-561-01) and Island Peak (IMJA-561-01) |
| Campsites | BC(07/04,5450m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(13/04,6100m),C3.ABC(18/04,6500m),C4(01/05,6950m),C5(06/05,7500m),C6(09/05,7925m),Smt(05/18/05) |
| Route Notes | See Swiss Everest 1956 from "Himalayan Journal" 1957 for route details as far as C6. |
| Accidents | Sirdar Pasang Dawa Lama amoebic dysentery and liver abcess; Luchsinger appendicitis |
| Achievement | 1st ascent of Lhotse |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | True |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | EVER56101 |
| Checksum | 2438378 |
| Year | 1956 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | w face |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wolfgang Diehl | M | 1908 | Switzerland | Deputy Leader | Bern, Switzerland | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Albert Eggler | M | 1913 | Switzerland | Leader | Bern, Switzerland | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Hans Grimm | M | 1912 | Switzerland | Climber | Waedenswil, Zurich, Switzerland | Dentist | Details Other expeditions |
| Eduard (Edi) Leuthold | M | 1928 | Switzerland | Exp Doctor | Zurich, Switzerland | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Fritz Luchsinger | M | 1921 | Switzerland | Climber | Thun, Bern, Switzerland | Army instructor and officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Juerg P. Marmet | M | 1927 | Switzerland | Climber | Zurich, Switzerland | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Fritz Mueller | M | 1926 | Switzerland | Climber/Scientist | Zurich, Switzerland | Geographer & glacialogist | Details Other expeditions |
| Ernst Reiss | M | 1920 | Switzerland | Climbing Leader | Brienz, Bern, Switzerland | Alpine guide & aircraft mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Adolf (Dolf) Reist | M | 1921 | Switzerland | Climber | Interlaken, Bern, Switzerland | Photographer & aircraft mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Ernst Schmied | M | 1924 | Switzerland | Climber | Bern, Switzerland | Business executive | Details Other expeditions |
| Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten | M | 1928 | Switzerland | Climber | Bern, Switzerland | Chemist | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Dawa Sherpa | M | 1912 | Nepal | Sirdar | Khumjung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
11 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LHOT56101 | AJ | Eggler, Albert | On Lhotse and Mount Everest | - | 61:239-252 (Nov 1956) | - |
| LHOT56101 | HJ | Eggler, Albert | The Swiss Expedition to Everest and Lhotse | - | 20:3-10 (1957) | - |
| LHOT56101 | AAJ | Marmet, Juerg | Everest-Lhotse, 1956 | - | 31:121-132 (1957) | - |
| LHOT56101 | - | Eggler, Albert | Gipfel Uber den Wolken | Hallwag, Bern | - | E27 |
| LHOT56101 | - | Eggler, Albert | The Everest-Lhotse Adventure | Harper & Bros, New York | - | E27 |
| LHOT56101 | MW | Eggler, Alfred | Lofty Summits | - | 147-150 (1956-57) | - |
| LHOT56101 | MW | Reiss, Ernst | Lhotse 1956 | - | 151-156 (1956-57) | - |
| LHOT56101 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Lhotse | - | 66:38-42 (Mar 1979) | - |
| LHOT56101 | - | Reiss, Ernst | Mein Weg Als Bergsteiger | Huber, Frauenfeld | - | R167 |
| LHOT56101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/20/1/the-swiss-expedition-to-everest-and-lhotse-1956/ | - | - | - |
| LHOT56101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1956_files/AJ61%201956%20239-252%20Eggler%20Lhotse%20&%20Everest.pdf | - | - | - |