Langtang Lirung | 1991 SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Langtang Lirung in 1991 via SE Ridge, led by James Grey. Summit reached on 31st October 1991. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 569
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LANG91302
Peak ID LANG
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders James Grey
Sponsor British Langtang I Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-10-16
Summit Date 1991-10-31
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1991-11-09
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to illness, lack of time, few climbers
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/10,4000m),C1(29/10,4900m),C2(30/10,5700m),C3(31/10,6100m),xxx(31/10,6100m)
Route Notes BC 30 mins downhill from Japanese in green meadow C1 same as Japanese C2 above Japanese C3 same as Japanese High point at C3. First climbed several peaks in area including Naya Kanga and Tsergo Ri for acclimatization for alpine-style ascent of Langtang (after this stage Maclean left for home). "With fixed ropes dangling in front of you" therefore hard not to do standard style climb; also route more difficult than expected and team now only 3 men. Turned back at C3. Strong winds and lack of acclimatization and one members gardia and weren't climbing in true alpine-style ("we were climbing on someone else's back"). Climb was "serious" but not too difficult to handle. 1st Nov back to BC and now members got diarrhea in turn (water source had become stagnant pools and though iodine added, perhaps this the cause). By 5 Nov realized not enough time to make successful summit bid and walked out via lakes in one-week return to KTM. Timothy Banton and Stephenson made climb of 29-31 Oct; James Grey went to 6000m alone 5 Nov to see how high he could go in one day and returned to BC. Left BC 9 Nov.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Society
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451227
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Timothy Banton M 1964 UK Climber Derby, Derbyshire, England Council worker Details Other expeditions
James Grey M 1961 UK Leader Belvedere, Kent, England Director of adventure-travel business Details Other expeditions
Oliver Stephenson M 1968 UK Climber London, England Decorator Details Other expeditions
Andrew Maclean M 1962 UK Climber London, England Solicitor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LANG91302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:212 (1992) -
LANG91302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199221202/Langtang-Lirung-Post-Monsoon-Southeast-Ridge-Attempts - - -