Langtang Lirung | 1982 SE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Langtang Lirung in 1982 via SE Ridge, led by Bruno Toscan. Summit reached on 17th October 1982. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2062
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LANG82301
Peak ID LANG
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Bruno Toscan
Sponsor Italian Mountaineering Expedition Langtang Lirung 1982
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Trisuli Bazar->Langtang Valley
Basecamp Date 1982-09-18
Summit Date 1982-10-17
Summit Time 1245
Summit Days 29
Total Days 37
Termination Date 1982-10-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7227
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,4150m),C1(21/09,4710m),C2(30/09,5550m),C3(06/10,6030m),C4(16/10,6400m),Smt(17/10)
Route Notes Petronio - 31 Oct 82 Camps reported by ministry correct C1 = ABC C2 -> C3 was difficult mixed rock and ice; above C3 was 100m icefall and this also a problem; otherwise no problems. BC was at south base of mountain, near Japanese BC and memorials for dead climbers. Route = South Ridge above C1, below was couloir on southeast side. Think route was same as Japanese 1981 but perhaps last part (C4 to top) was different. Petronio went onto West Face here and then 200m below summit back to South Ridge. What looks like summit on postcard is not it; summit is behind; hence going onto face. 17 Oct Petronio and sirdar Nga Temba to top. Cavallari and Ravagnan arrived C4 on 17th but did not go higher than C4. On 18th should have gone to top but bad weather (snow and wind), so that day descended together with summiters. Went to C3 where were Crepaz and Tavernaro and 2 Sherpas and from here they all went down same day to C1. During this descent Crepaz hit by snow avalanche. He was last man descending and avalanche took him down West Face. Cavallari saw him go about 2000m. Not possible to reach him and went so far not possible to be alive. No other accidents nor any frostbite. Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82 Italy Langtang 7246m South Face 17 Oct summit reached at 12:45 pm without oxygen by 1) Mauro Petronio 2) Sirdar Nga Temba Sherpa, 32 in clear weather. Stayed on top 15 mins and hoisted Nepal and Italian flags, left ice axe, took photos. Had climbed from C4 at 6:00 am (altitude not given). At 1:00 pm started descent and at 16:30 arrived C4. 2 others also attempted summit same day but because of bad weather for them could not succeed. 18 Oct at 11:00 am 2nd leader Bruno Crepaz fell when coming down from C3 (6030m) with summiters and others to C2; slipped and fell down west side and died. To find dead body not possible because of avalanches on west side and weather deteriorating. All others well. Leave BC 25 Oct Langtang success 17th Oct by Petronio and Nga Temba. Left 9:00 am from C4 15 mins on top from 12:45 without oxygen on South Face. Weather fine on top. Returned C4 at 16:30. Afterwards Stefano Cavallari and Giuliano Ravagnan tried to top also but failed because bad weather and returned BC 18th. 18th at 11:00 am Bruno Crepaz descending from C3 to C2 fell 2000m in west direction into crevasse. C2 = 5550m - 18,210 feet C3 = 6030m - 19,785 feet Ale, Tourism - 6 Oct 82 Leader suffering from high blood pressure and must rest few days. BC 18 Sept 4150m. Deputy leader Bruno Crepaz is acting leader. Toscan - 10 Sept 82 All 7 in KTM. Leave KTM 12 Sept he hopes by bus to Trisuli and then usual route to Langtang north-northeast to Syabrubesi then east via airfield. 6 days to BC. BC at 4000m east of SE Ridge Route = SE Ridge (same as Japanese spring 1981) Deposit camp c4800-4900m Probably 4 camps above this arrived BC c19th Sept; one week getting loads to deposit. BC to summit one month. About 4 Sherpas above BC. Sirdar Nga Temba (Kangchenjunga, 1982, Spring SW).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447917
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stefano Cavallari M 1961 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Has just finished military service Details Other expeditions
Bruno Crepaz M 1933 Italy Deputy Leader Trieste, Italy Economist in insurance company Details Other expeditions
Luisa Mestroni F 1954 Italy Exp Doctor Trieste, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Mauro Petronio M 1957 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Electrical technician Details Other expeditions
Giuliano Ravagnan M 1960 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy University student of geology Details Other expeditions
Adriano Tavernaro M 1952 Italy Climber Canale D'Agordo, Belluno, Italy Alpine instructor of army alpine troops Details Other expeditions
Bruno Toscan M 1933 Italy Leader Trieste, Italy Upholsterer Details Other expeditions
Nga Temba Sherpa M 1950 Nepal Sirdar Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LANG82301 AAJ Buscaini, Sylvia Metzeltin - - 57:235 (1983) -
LANG82301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
LANG82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323503/Asia-Nepal-Langtang-Lirung-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -