Langtang Lirung | 1980 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Langtang Lirung in 1980 via SE Ridge, led by Iwao Otsuka. Summit reached on 26th October 1980. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1885
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LANG80301
Peak ID LANG
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Iwao Otsuka
Sponsor Freestyle Climbers Club Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-09-03
Summit Date 1980-10-26
Summit Time 0920
Summit Days 53
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7227
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,4200m),C1(07/09,4900m),C2(15/09,5600m),C3(02/10,6100m),C4(14/10,6700m),Biv(25/10,7100m),Smt(26/10)
Route Notes Otsuka - 4 Oct 80 BC 3 Sept 4200m C1 7 Sept 4900m C2 15 Sept 5600m C3 2 Oct 6100m C4 14 Oct 6700m Summit 26 Oct by all 6 members. On 16, 18, 25 and 26 Oct expedition made and summit attacks. 1st 3 attacks were not successful, but on 25 Oct biv at 7100m and 4th attack at night. 16 Oct very big wind 18 Oct very big wind 25 Oct 3 members route making take long time. Stayed biv at 7100m 26th - 3 members from C4 went to biv site and together all 6 to top; left C4 at 2:00 am, reached biv site 6:30 am; all left biv 7:30 am and arrived summit 9:20 am; 1/2 hour on summit in very clear but cold and windy weather; arrived C3 3:00 pm and stayed there that night. Climbed South Ridge, new route; difficult ice ridge with same rock face, all very steep. No accidents, no frostbite. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 30 Oct 80 Summit from South Ridge 26 Oct all 6 members; from highest camp started 6:30 am and on top 9:20 am without oxygen. All well. Langtang - 24 Aug 80 Leave KTM 27 or 28 Aug, approach via Trisuli Bazaar, Trisuli River, Langtang Khola to Langtang Glacier southeast of mountain; 7 days caravan. Route = South Ridge, same on 1964 Japanese expedition (which reached only 5300m) and 1971 which also tried East Ridge. 3 Sept climbing start BC 4200m at bottom of glacier C1 about 4500m C2 5300m on ridge C3 6000m on ridge C4 6700m on ridge Maybe biv between C4 and top Summit 15 Oct Most difficult between C2 and C3 in very steep mixed rock and ice No Sherpas above BC No oxygen for climbing; only 2 bottles for medical use
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447194
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shigeki Hirosawa M 1954 Japan Climber Mima, Tokushima, Japan Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Horie M 1957 Japan Climber Yokosuka, Kanagawa, Japan Economics student Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Magai M 1948 Japan Climber Hamamatsu, Shizuoka, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Iwao Otsuka M 1950 Japan Leader Nakochiai, Shinjuku, Tokyo, Japan Shopkeeper (food) Details Other expeditions
Genichi Tachi M 1956 Japan Climber Nishikanbara, Nigata, Japan University student (economics) Details Other expeditions
Tokuo Watanabe M 1942 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Assistant in a sports shop & alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LANG80301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:257 (1981) -
LANG80301 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
LANG80301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125702/Asia-Nepal-Langtang-Lirung-South-Ridge - - -