Langtang Lirung | 1964 S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Langtang Lirung in 1964 via S Ridge, led by Takeo Suzuki. Summit reached on 23rd April 1964. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2524
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LANG64101
Peak ID LANG
Year 1964
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takeo Suzuki
Sponsor Osaka City University Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1964-04-04
Summit Date 1964-04-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to difficult knife-edge ridge and avalanche danger
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Urkinmang (URKM-641-01) and Bhemdang Ri (BHEM-641-01)
Campsites BC(04/04),C1(06/04,4900m),C2(21/04,5700m),xxx(23/04,6000m)
Route Notes Japanese Langtang Lirung, Spring 1964 Attempted Langtang Lirung 1st ascent Urkinmang (Buddha) 1st ascent Bhemdang Ri (which they named Morimoto Peak for 1961 leader) Did not attempt - Kyungka Gangchempo Dorje Lhakpa Akira Ban - 23 Aug 78 Tsunga peak = Langtang Ri about 7100m; Japanese 1973 autumn were on this peak, not on Langtang Lirung. Italians 1963 and Japanese 1964 both mistaken about ascent of Kyungka; were not on Kyungka but on other peaks. Bhemdang Ri 6750m climbed by Japanese 1964 on 10 May by 2 members and 1 Sherpa. Italians climbed Shalbacham in 1963, not Kyungka, 2nd ascent. 1st ascent by Japanese in about 1960. Osaka City University Expedition did not climb Ganchempo or Dorje Lhakpa. 1964 Osaka City University made 1st ascent Urkinmang 6151m by Ban, Jokei, Kiyohara and Mingma Tsering on 20 May via South Face from Langshisa Glacier. 1961 expedition tried only Langtang Lirung. Langtang Lirung leader Ban - 28 Aug 78 Climbed unnamed peak, not Kyungka Peak in 1964 and Morimoto Peak 6800m named after 1961 expedition leader who killed by big avalanche in Langtang Glacier. Ban also member. Dan Taylor - 23 Nov 71 (Gangchempo leader) Urkinmang (Buddha) 1964 Japanese admitted to Taylor in writing that they climbed Buddha in its 1st ascent instead of Gangchempo. Had intended to climb Gangchempo and thought they had. Ban - 30 May 64 5 members to Calcutta tomorrow RNAC; Ban and Kiyohara leave June 2 of 3. Kyungka Peak (unclimbed) 6979m climbed from Langtang or Tunga glacier very near Urkinmang. 2 porters: 1 to Urkinmang other to Kyungka; climbed before permission known. 10th May climbed by Kando, Sasaki and Sherpa Mingma Tsering from 6500m to summit; knife ridge very difficult because steep and like knife. From C3 6400m and took 15 hours to summit and return. Italians last year said they climbed Kyungka, but Japanese think mistaken and instead Italians climbed Shalbachum 6700m. Ban - 25 May 64 Langtang glacier many avalaches this year and decided must not attempt it in trying South Ridge route first because glacier very bad condition of big avalanches; C2 highest 5700m camp and reached 6000m highest point, reached by Ban, Sasaki and Nima and Nima Tsering I 23rd April. Abandoned South Ridge because very dangerous and very steep narrow ice ridge with no place to put on C3. April 28th moved basecamp - Urkinmang Himal (same Langtang massif) next moved base camp northeast into Langtang or Tsang glacier, ancient route to Tibet on base at 4300m now established 29 April. In above base camp III, highest camp 5950m from base to C1 very easy over moraine C1 to C2 snow glacier and sometime icefall. C2 to C3 rock but not very difficult. C3 to summit 300m ice face in which out stays all the way very steep (60% steepest part): this part "very difficult." 5 hours to reach summit from C3 (7 am left) and 5 hours down to C3. Photos and lunch on summit for 1 hour; left Nepal and Japan and OCU Alpine Club flag. No accidents. Langtang probably cannot be climbed from Nepal side because only one route via glacier and this changes so might be lucky one day. Don't know whether OCU will try it again. All will leave Kathmandu by plane, maybe 2 to Calcutta 30th rest leave 31st. Chandramohan - 7 April 64 AP filed last night Langtang expedition establish base camp April 3rd. April 12-13 having avalanches Bhemdang Ri (Morimoto) 1st ascent: 10 May - Tetsuya Kondo Soshiro Sasaki Mingma Tsering Urkinmang (Buddha) (S Face) 1st ascent: 20 May - Akira Ban Kazuhisa Jokei Tesuya Kiyohara Mingma Tsering Note: JAC reference gives ascent date as May 5, 1964 for Urkinmang and May 8, 1964 for Bhemdang Ri (which they called Kyungka).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2441148
Year 1964
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takeo Suzuki M - Japan Leader - President of Brother Meriyasu Co. Details Other expeditions
Tetsuya Konda M - Japan Deputy Leader - Working in Kinki Fukken Co. Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Kadota M - Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Physician, Shirokita Hospital Details Other expeditions
Tesuya Kiyohara M - Japan Climber - Working in Osaka Ryowa Mortor-Car Co. Details Other expeditions
Akira Ban M 1939 Japan Climber - Working in Chori Co. Details Other expeditions
Kazuhisa Jokei M - Japan Climber Ibaragi, Osaka, Japan Student of Commercial Dept of OCU Details Other expeditions
Soshiro Sasaki M 1943 Japan Climber Japan Student of Commercial Dept of OCU Details Other expeditions
Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LANG64101 AAJ Suzuki, Tadeo - - 39:464 (1965) -
LANG64101 JAC Suzuki, Tadeo Langtang Lirung, 1964 - 60:3-4 (1965) -
LANG64101 JAC Suzuki, Tadeo Langtang Lirung, 1964 - 60:33-42 (1965) -
LANG64101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546401/Asia-Nepal-Langtrang-Himal - - -