Khangri Shar | 2003 Bottom of SW Face-E Col

A Japan expedition to Khangri Shar in 2003 via Bottom of SW Face-E Col, led by Masayoshi Fuji. Summit reached on 8th May 2003. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4331
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KGRI03101
Peak ID KGRI
Year 2003
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Bottom of SW Face-E Col
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Masayoshi Fuji
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club Khangri Shar Senior Expedition 2003
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lobuje to Gorakshep, Klappatan's west side
Basecamp Date 2003-04-29
Summit Date 2003-05-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 12
Termination Date 2003-05-11
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to impossible route
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 1950
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/04,5300m),C1(02/05,5850m),xxx(08/05,6300m)
Route Notes BC at south side of lake just east of Khangri Shar Glacier C1 at south end of South Ridge High point at SE Col on Glacier. Did not attempt South Ridge because too steep and overhanging rock and did not need to go up to avoid avalanching off of Pumori as had feared. When they looked at ridge, decided not possible; so decided to climb to East Col and then in ridge moved close to west side of glacier at bottom of rock face on glacier but big crevasse at 6300m across glacier. More big crevasses on Pumori side. Was only passage across by unsafe snow bridges. Stopped attempt at 6300m on glacier below SE Face and south of East Col. Had hoped to put C2 on East Col at 6480m. Sherpas were technically very good. Now no wish to try other approach to mountain because other routes would be difficult and members are "serious people." Fixed 700m to C1 and above C1 1250m (quite steep glacier above C1). Mountain is for younger people climbing in alpine style, possibly via same route, possibly up rock face of 75 degrees angle. Two members (Igo & Itoh) had slight cases of altitude sickness, left BC on 30 April, returned to BC 6 May by which time it was too late for them to join climb, so they never went above BC although team had flown to Lukla on 19 April and took ten days to arrive at BC via an acclimatization trek, but this trek was not long enough and high enough for this age group. Two other members had serious stomach problems: Nakagawa never reached BC, Tanaka got to BC but left on 30 April and did not return, so team had only 4 climbing members.
Accidents No accident or frostbite
Achievement 1st attempt of mountain
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455356
Year 2003
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) bottom of sw face-e col

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Masayoshi Fujii M 1947 Japan Leader Wuxi, Jiangsu, China Project manager for Volvo auto company Details Other expeditions
Takuo Hirai M 1945 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Accountant Details Other expeditions
Koutaro Igo M 1937 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Retired post office manager Details Other expeditions
Hiroo Itoh M 1939 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Retired electronics company employee Details Other expeditions
Hidetoshi Nakagawa M 1942 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Retired civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Naoki Nakamura M 1938 Japan Climber Iruma, Saitama, Japan Retired pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Makoto Nebuka M 1947 Japan Climbing Leader Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Author Details Other expeditions
Kenji Tanaka M 1943 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Ice cream company marketing staff member Details Other expeditions
Minoru Tsubakuro M 1942 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KGRI03101 HIGH - - - 257:76 (Apr 2004) -
KGRI03101 JAN Emoto, Kanenori Attempt on Khangri Shar in Khumbu Himal - 5:20-21 (May 2004) -
KGRI03101 AAJ Emoto, Kanenori - - 78:402-403 (2004) -
KGRI03101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200440200/Asia-Nepal-Malahangur-Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Khangri-Shar-Attempt - - -
KGRI03101 - - http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol5/jan-vol5-20-21.pdf - - -