Khangri Shar | 2003 Bottom of SW Face-E Col
A Japan expedition to Khangri Shar in 2003 via Bottom of SW Face-E Col, led by Masayoshi Fuji. Summit reached on 8th May 2003. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4331 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KGRI03101 |
| Peak ID | KGRI |
| Year | 2003 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Bottom of SW Face-E Col |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Masayoshi Fuji |
| Sponsor | Japanese Alpine Club Khangri Shar Senior Expedition 2003 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Lobuje to Gorakshep, Klappatan's west side |
| Basecamp Date | 2003-04-29 |
| Summit Date | 2003-05-08 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 9 |
| Total Days | 12 |
| Termination Date | 2003-05-11 |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6300m due to impossible route |
| High Point (m) | 6300 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1950 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(29/04,5300m),C1(02/05,5850m),xxx(08/05,6300m) |
| Route Notes | BC at south side of lake just east of Khangri Shar Glacier C1 at south end of South Ridge High point at SE Col on Glacier. Did not attempt South Ridge because too steep and overhanging rock and did not need to go up to avoid avalanching off of Pumori as had feared. When they looked at ridge, decided not possible; so decided to climb to East Col and then in ridge moved close to west side of glacier at bottom of rock face on glacier but big crevasse at 6300m across glacier. More big crevasses on Pumori side. Was only passage across by unsafe snow bridges. Stopped attempt at 6300m on glacier below SE Face and south of East Col. Had hoped to put C2 on East Col at 6480m. Sherpas were technically very good. Now no wish to try other approach to mountain because other routes would be difficult and members are "serious people." Fixed 700m to C1 and above C1 1250m (quite steep glacier above C1). Mountain is for younger people climbing in alpine style, possibly via same route, possibly up rock face of 75 degrees angle. Two members (Igo & Itoh) had slight cases of altitude sickness, left BC on 30 April, returned to BC 6 May by which time it was too late for them to join climb, so they never went above BC although team had flown to Lukla on 19 April and took ten days to arrive at BC via an acclimatization trek, but this trek was not long enough and high enough for this age group. Two other members had serious stomach problems: Nakagawa never reached BC, Tanaka got to BC but left on 30 April and did not return, so team had only 4 climbing members. |
| Accidents | No accident or frostbite |
| Achievement | 1st attempt of mountain |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2455356 |
| Year | 2003 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | bottom of sw face-e col |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Masayoshi Fujii | M | 1947 | Japan | Leader | Wuxi, Jiangsu, China | Project manager for Volvo auto company | Details Other expeditions |
| Takuo Hirai | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Accountant | Details Other expeditions |
| Koutaro Igo | M | 1937 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Retired post office manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroo Itoh | M | 1939 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Retired electronics company employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Hidetoshi Nakagawa | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Retired civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Naoki Nakamura | M | 1938 | Japan | Climber | Iruma, Saitama, Japan | Retired pharmacist | Details Other expeditions |
| Makoto Nebuka | M | 1947 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan | Author | Details Other expeditions |
| Kenji Tanaka | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Ice cream company marketing staff member | Details Other expeditions |
| Minoru Tsubakuro | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | High school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KGRI03101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 257:76 (Apr 2004) | - |
| KGRI03101 | JAN | Emoto, Kanenori | Attempt on Khangri Shar in Khumbu Himal | - | 5:20-21 (May 2004) | - |
| KGRI03101 | AAJ | Emoto, Kanenori | - | - | 78:402-403 (2004) | - |
| KGRI03101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200440200/Asia-Nepal-Malahangur-Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Khangri-Shar-Attempt | - | - | - |
| KGRI03101 | - | - | http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol5/jan-vol5-20-21.pdf | - | - | - |