Kaptang | 2009 N Face

A Japan expedition to Kaptang in 2009 via N Face, led by Tamotsu Ohnishi. Summit reached on 9th June 2009. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6518
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KAPT09201
Peak ID KAPT
Year 2009
Season 2
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tamotsu Ohnishi
Sponsor Osaka Alpine Club West Nepal Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2009-06-02
Summit Date 2009-06-09
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 7
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2009-06-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 5965
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 5
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Kojichuwa Chuli (KOJI-092-01)
Campsites BC(02/06,4300m),ABC(08/06,5492m),Smt(09-10/06)
Route Notes Osaka Alpine Club West Nepal Expedition led by Tamotsu Ohnishi - 23 Aug 2009 Ohnishi's plan was to climb three peaks in Kanti Himal, Kaptang, Koijchuwa Chuli and Daphne Shail, all on the border with Tibet, and then visit a number of more passes between Nepal and Tibet. However, after they had been on Kaptang and Kojichuwa Chuli, most members were too tired to explore the passes, and the team headed directly to Jumla and Kathmandu. Their approach route was by air to Nepalgunj on 19 May and to Jumla on 20 May, then from Jumla on 22 May they trekked north to Rara Lake, northeast to Mugu Khola, north along Mugu Khola to Kaptang BC. On 2 June, they reached Kaptang BC at 4300m just below Najala Pass of the border ridge. They made an ABC at 5492m on the south side of the mountain on 8 June, and on 9 June Irizawa, Ohnishi and Gomba Sherpa went for the top. They left ABC at 6:00 am, were on the summit of Kaptang at 2:00 pm and back in ABC at 4:00 pm. They had climbed the North Face (from Tibet) and had fixed 400m of rope on the steep, 70-degree fce. On the next day, the 10th, the remaining members went to the summit. They were Mizutani, Suzuki and Tsuji. They left ABC at 5:00 am, summited at 9:00 am and returned to ABC at 2:00 pm. On the 15th the team made a new BC for Kojichuwa Chuli at 4600m south-southwest of the mountain. On the 21st, Irizawa, Suzuki, Tsuji and Gomba attempted the NW Ridge between the two mountains on its Tibetan side. The set out from the new BC at 5:00 am, at 9:00 am were at 5565m, too tired to press on to the top. They now turned back to BC and reached it at 2:00 pm. The next day, 22 June, they left camp to return to Jumla. They went to Mugu village, Ghora La, Yala La, Bhijor, Shey Gompa, Phuksundo Lake, and from Ringmo near the lake on 23 July they took a helicopter to Nepalgunj. Tsuji had a stomach problem and needed to fly out; the others went along with him. From Nepalgunj, they flew to Pokhara, spent a few days there and were in back in Kathmandu on the 26th. Sherpa: Gomba Sherpa, 6/12/84 (21/8/2041), Sotang, Solu, no 8000ers
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID KOJI09201
Checksum 2457586
Year 2009
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tamotsu Ohnishi M 1942 Japan Leader Osaka, Japan Printing company staff member Details Other expeditions
Toshitsugi Irizawa M 1948 Japan Climber Kitamorokata, Miyazaki, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Koji Mizutani M 1936 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Hisashi Suzuki M 1947 Japan Climber Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Tsuji M 1947 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Gomba Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Sotang, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.