Everest | 1998 SW Face
A Japan expedition to Everest in 1998 via SW Face, led by Norichika Matsumoto. Summit reached on 11th October 1998. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 3203 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER98307 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1998 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Norichika Matsumoto |
| Sponsor | Southwest Face Sagarmatha Kansai 1998 Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Nepal |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1998-08-26 |
| Summit Date | 1998-10-11 |
| Summit Time | 8040 |
| Summit Days | 46 |
| Total Days | 54 |
| Termination Date | 1998-10-19 |
| Termination Reason | 8 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8040m due to lack of supplies and time |
| High Point (m) | 8040 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 2000 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 9 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(26/08,5350m),C1(05/09,6000m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(20/09,6900m),C4(05/10,7550m),C5(12/10,8040m),xxx(11-12/10,8040m) |
| Route Notes | C1 near top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on SW Face C4 on SW Face C5 on SW Face first snow field above Col. Not above C5 because no climbing rope there and no time to bring up rope; date of flying to Japan fixed for return to jobs and food and fuel running out and take 2 days to move up from C2 to C5. Sherpas went to C5 site on 11 Oct to leave supplies (Nima Temba, Kami Rita and Ang Phurba) but immediately descended because site very sound. 12th Oct Komoto and Matsumoto occupied C5 for one night and then down. |
| Accidents | Nothing serious (snow, falling ice pieces, but not hurt) |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Cosmo Treks |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453366 |
| Year | 1998 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | sw face |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eisaku Komoto | M | 1966 | Japan | Climber | Oku-ku, Okayama, Japan | Veterinary doctor | Details Other expeditions |
| Norichika Matsumoto | M | 1943 | Japan | Leader | Osaka, Japan | Retired chemist of pharmaceutical company | Details Other expeditions |
| Kenichi Sakae | M | 1949 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Kashihara, Osaka, Japan | Factory owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Takashina | M | 1965 | Japan | Climber | Izumi-shi, Osaka, Japan | Construction company director | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshinori Tanaka | M | 1942 | Japan | BC Manager | Nara, Osaka, Japan | Mountaineering equipment shop owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Mayumi Uehira | F | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Uda-ku, Nara, Japan | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinichi Uehira | M | 1941 | Japan | BC Manager | Uda-ku, Nara, Japan | Packaging designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshichika Yamada | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Minami Azumi, Nagano, Japan | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa (Ang Dawa) Sherpa | M | 1964 | Nepal | Climber | Osaka, Japan (born Solukhumbu) | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kami Rita (Topke) Sherpa | M | 1970 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER98307 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 73:374-375 (1999) | - |
| EVER98307 | HIGH | - | - | - | 198:36-38 (May 1999) | - |
| EVER98307 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937402/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Ascents-in-the-Post-Monsoon | - | - | - |