Everest | 1988 N Col-NE Ridge (up), SE Ridge-S Col (down)

A China expedition to Everest in 1988 via N Col-NE Ridge (up), SE Ridge-S Col (down), led by Shi Zhang-Chun, Toshio Imanishi, Kumar Khadga Bikram Shah. Summit reached on 5th May 1988. 99 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 511
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER88101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1988
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge (up), SE Ridge-S Col (down)
Route 2 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 3 S Col-SE Ridge (up), NE Ridge-N Col (down)
Route 4 S Col-SE Ridge
Nationality China
Leaders Shi Zhang-Chun, Toshio Imanishi, Kumar Khadga Bikram Shah
Sponsor China-Japan-Nepal Friendship Expedition to Qomolangma/Sagarmatha
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 True
Success 4 True
Ascent 1 76th
Ascent 2 76th
Ascent 3 77th
Ascent 4 78th
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Japan, Nepal
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1988-03-06
Summit Date 1988-05-05
Summit Time 0925
Summit Days 60
Total Days 73
Termination Date 1988-05-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 7
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 99
Summit Members 14
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 99
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites See Route Details
Route Notes South Side Camp Details: BC at closest possible site to Icefall C1 at top of Icefall C2 at bottom of Lhotse Face in Cwm (normal site) C3 on Lhotse Face right of Geneva Spur C4 at South Col C5 on SE Ridge (halfway South Col-South Summit). BC(28/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6000m),ABC(11/04,6500m),C3(19/04,7300m), C4(28/04,7986m),C5(04/05,8300m),Smt(05,10/05) North Side Camp Details: BC(06/03,5154m),C1(11/03,5500m),C2(12/03,6000m),ABC C3(17/03,6500m), C4(01/04,7028m),C5(08/04,7790m),C6(02/05,8200m),C7(04/05,8680m),Smt(05/05) South team had to hurry up to catch up with N side climbers because were 10 days late at BC due to transport problems to BC (after 29 March in almost daily walkie-talkie radio contact with north side). No mountaineering problems but communications problems among 3 nationalities who had "quite different" ideas especially "Chinese who had quite a bureaucratic inflexible attitude." Chinese were CMA staffers or TMA staff members, not army who had to obey orders from North BC or later when contact established by radio with Beijing, orders from Beijing of what they must do - where as most Japanese members paid some fees to join. Nepalese on salary from NMA but were quite familiar to Japanese. Tibetans could not speak frankly to others because "observers" were in BC who were Han Chinese and Han Chinese at BC could not differ with Beijing. South side climbing not much snow, so had packed ice. Icefall very dry and stable - on summit climb 5 May, deep snow on ridge. 5 May summit group planned to be 2 traversing parties: Top Bahadur Khatri in 2nd group but miscalculated oxygen supply with not enough on South Col: 24 bottles were there Ok but 17 or 18 empty on 4 May when these 6 and 6 support members on Col or above, hoping all to go to top. 2 Chinese were to go so went, Ang Phurba followed them to C5 to 8300m on 4 May - not enough oxygen at 8300m for Kitamura to go with them, so he stayed at C4 and tried to go to top on 5th from C4 early morning in very strong wind. Khatri and Isona and supporting members including Sungdare did not try to go up because oxygen at Col only enough for one summiter from there. Kitamura reached South Summit at 3:00 pm; was told it too late for him to continue, leadership felt, and told Yamada to bring him down. 7 May Beijing said climb finished but young Japanese and some Nepalese climbers did not agree. 6 Nepalese went to South Col: Sungdare, Padam Bahadur Tamang, Ang Karma, Ang Rita (Thami), Narayan Shrestha and Hira Bahadur Rana - why all 6 did not reach summit Isono doesn't know. Nepalese defied end of climb decision and it was their country, but Japanese were not permitted to continue, much to their unhappiness. South Chinese climbing leader stayed in North Col camp with Shigehiro at end of climbing period. North side 3 stages of climb: 1) make camps and carry loads to N Col, 2) do same to C6 with loads but not occupy higher camps - then all down to BC for rest, 3) complete climb In 1st stages down to BC when bad weather came after C3 established. In 2nd stage C6 reached but not slept in for 1st time on 9th April. In 3rd stage C6 occupied and rest of climb completed. Did not at any time have to wait for south side climbers to make progress because south side route easier to climb and number of camps less and fact summit date fixed for 5 May. team led by Yamada who knew south route. 6 Yamada selected before leaving Japan so could descend without south side climbers to guide them down. Oxygen used in C5 sleeping, same members climbing above C5, all members sleeping in C6 and C8 and climbing above C7. From summit Yamada left about 10:30 am with Ang Lhakpa and Cerin Douji. Linert Yamada party at top and left 11:00 am. Lhakpa Sona and Yamoumoto left 12:30 pm. Camera crew reached top just few minutes before south side trio arrived and left at 1:00 pm. 2nd traverse team in C5 ready to go to top (had ferried oxygen and food and fuel to C6 on 6 May) when decision taken late night 6 May by Chinese leader (final decision taken 3:00 am 7 May Chinese time) so 2nd team to N Col 7 May. In 2nd team was Mitani who would have been his 4th ascent. Japanese climbers very greatly disappointed by decision to call off climb. Assume decision taken to quit before anyone hurt. In each camp to and including C6 3-nations members lived in separate tents and ate own national foods at BC but above had basic Japanese food with Chinese and Nepalese Tsampa or yak meet to their own taste. All load carrying forced to be equal. A body was found in a tent at 7500m on NE Ridge, north side climbers reported - was Westerner from clothing label, perhaps Spanish - definitely not Mallory. Summiters arrived smt left smt Yamada, Ang Lhakpa & Cerin Douji, traverse team 9:30 am NST 10:30 NST * Li Zhixin } support team for traverse team 10:30 am NST 11:00 Lhakpa Sona 10:45 12:30 Yamamoto 11:00 12:30 Shoji Nakamura, Susumu 11:15 1:00 pm Nakemura & Saegusa } television team (Did not have special helmet with camera fixed to it - forgot it) * support team were meant to carry 2 oxygen bottles each, one bottle for own use and one for traverse team - but Li carried only one bottle for himself - Chinese had to have a Han Chinese on summit. Members on north side: 1. 14 Japanese, 14 climbers + 14 Nepalese high climbers - 42 2. Support climber - all Nepalese 12 3 Television men who climbed - all Japanese 15 4. Television men to Lha La camp - all Japanese 12 5. Television Sherpas - Nepalese 10 6. newspapers writers and photogs to N Col-Japanese 5 (woman to ABC only) --- 96 7. BC staff - leaders, 4 doctors (1 Chinese, 3 Japanese) 56 --- interpreters, cooks, drivers, radio operators 152 above BC - 46 Japanese 36 Nepal 14 Climbers --- 96 Members on South side: 1. 14 Japanese, 14 climbers + 14 Nepalese high climbers - 42 2. Icefall Sherpas - all Nepalese 20 3 Television men who climbed - all Japanese to S Col 4 4. Television Sherpas - Nepalese 0 6. newspapers writers and photogs to N Col-Japanese 4 (to ABC only) --- 96 7. BC staff - 3 leaders, 3 doctors, 3 Chinese jouralists 3 interpreters, 2 cooks, 5 kitchen boys, 2 radio operators & miscellaneous Nepalese 20-25 --- 100-125 Isono - 27 Feb 88 Chinese 1960 and 1975: 500 members including 200 soldiers for party from BC - ABC (5000-6500m) and including BC staff doctors and communicators and journalists - climbing 150 total but above North Col 70 climbers only, 35 above 7600m - both years were military exercises: sports committees for military fitness. 1988 first time Chinese have chance to join another type of expedition, one organized purely for mountaineering. Most Japanese members are amateur and all paid to be on this expedition half or finances from or collected by members. Chinese govt pays its members salaries and BC food and equipment and getting all to BC. 3 team leaders at each BC and climbing leader; 3 general leaders in Birjunj - these leaders must respect decison of climbing leaders. Political problems can arise: climbing leaders feel weather conditions to bad for safe climbing and want to withdraw from mountain but general leaders in Beijing want climb to keep going. Isano hopes general leaders will listen to climbing leaders. North side 3 stages of climb: 1st stage all baggage to ABC; 2nd made route to C3, C4 and C6 and then all members down to BC for rest 7-10 days (had originally planned to go down further then BC, to Xixabangma and Xegar but not enough time). From mid-March to mid-April, much strong wind and had to crawl above N col. After mid-April wind lessened. First summit team left ABC 30 Apr to C4, 4 May from C6 to C7 and slept there, 5 May to summit and down to S Col; stayed 2 hours on summit (9:25-11:30 am NST). Li Zhixin, support member carried oxygen only for himself but should have brought supply for summit-traverse party. Cerni Doji oxygen finished on summit and Yamada's at bottom of Hillary Step. Li was only other climber from North be on top while traverse team from N were there. Yanada and 2 met Da Cering, Ang Phurba and then Rinzen Pungcog at bottom of Hillary Step; Ang Lhakpa gave his new bottle of oxygen to Ang Phurba here because Ang Phurba's supply finished. So Yamada and 2 continued down to S Col without no oxygen and arrived S Col 3:30 pm; met Kitamura near South Summit (100m below) and he descended with Yamada to Col because leader said too late for him to continue. Yamada, Ang Lhakpa and Cerin Dorje to BC 6 May. Lang route from N side. Yamada and party 3 days above 8000m "but we used oxygen - not so hard." Used oxygen sleeping in C5 and C6 climbing above C6. Not difficult climb, just long route. Wants to do new route on SW Face in winter.
Accidents No accidents, frostbite or serious illness except doctor who died
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449410
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge (up), se ridge-s col (down)

Members

99 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Zhang-Chun Shi M - China General Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Toshio Imanishi M 1914 Japan General Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Kumar Khadga Bikram Shah M - Nepal General Leader - President, Nepal Mountaineering Association Details Other expeditions
Jing Xu M 1927 China Deputy Gen Ldr - - Details Other expeditions
Harka Bahadur Gurung M 1939 Nepal Deputy Gen Ldr Kathmandu - Details Other expeditions
Shu-Sheng Zeng M - China Leader (N) - - Details Other expeditions
Tsuneo Shigehiro M 1947 Japan Climbing Ldr (N) Amagasaki, Hyogo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
An Cao M 1956 China Climber (N) Xinjiang, China Staff Details Other expeditions
Tsering Dorje (Cerin Duoji) M 1960 China Climber (N) Namling Dzong, Tibet, China Peasant Details Other expeditions
Dachung (Daqiong) M 1963 China Climber (N) Lhasa, Tibet, China Peasant Details Other expeditions
Dorje (Xiao Duobujie) M 1962 China Climber (N) Tibet - Details Other expeditions
Gaya M 1951 China Climber (N) - Tibetan Mountaineering Team Details Other expeditions
Guiyuan Di M 1954 China Climber (N) Mazhong Village, China Peasant Details Other expeditions
Gyatso (Xiao Jiacuo) M 1960 China Climber (N) Namling Dzong, Tibet, China Peasant Details Other expeditions
Gyala (Jiala) M 1962 China Climber (N) Lhatse Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Khetsun (Kaizun, Kai Zhong) M 1965 China Climber (N) Lhatse, Tibet, China Peasant Details Other expeditions
Lhotse (Luoze, Lodue) M 1962 China Climber (N) Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Pazili M 1968 China Climber (N) - Xinjiang Mountaineering Association, staff member Details Other expeditions
Da Chimi (Da Qimi) M 1957 China Climber (N) Namling Dzong, Tibet, China Tibetan Mountaineering Team Details Other expeditions
Wei-Qi Sun M 1960 China Climber (N) - Chinese Mountaineering Association, staff member Details Other expeditions
Zhi-Xin Li M 1962 China Climber (N) - Chinese Mountaineering Association, staff member Details Other expeditions
Tashi Tsering (Zhaxi Ciren) M 1966 China Climber (N) Lhatse Dzong, Tibet, China Peasant Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Hashimoto M - Japan Team Leader (N) - - Details Other expeditions
Tashi Jangbu Sherpa M 1959 Nepal Dep Climbing Ldr (N) Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Shoji Nakamura M 1942 Japan Climber (N) Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Susumu Nakamura M 1946 Japan Climber (N) Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Teruo Saegusa M 1957 Japan Climber (N) Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yukito Ueno M 1954 Japan Climber (N) Morioka, Iwate, Japan Government employee Details Other expeditions
Noboru Yamada M 1950 Japan Climber (N) Numata, Gunma, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Atsushi Yamamoto M 1962 Japan Climber (N) Tokyo, Japan Construction company worker Details Other expeditions
Munehiko Yamamoto M 1959 Japan Climber (N) Omiya, Saitama, Japan Staff member, junior high shcool Details Other expeditions
Kunga Sherpa M 1953 Nepal Team Leader (S) Solukhumbu MD, Wilderness Trekking Details Other expeditions
Pertemba Sherpa M 1948 Nepal Team Leader (N) Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nar Bahadur Kandel M - Nepal Climber (N) - Royal Nepal Army (Colonel) Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M 1955 Nepal Climber (N) Tsermadingma, Solukhumbu Army serviceman Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru (Ang Lhakpa) Sherpa M 1963 Nepal Climber (N) Khunde, Khumbu Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa M 1956 Nepal Climber (N) Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Basant Thapa M - Nepal Climber (N) - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Temba Sherpa M 1956 Nepal Assoc Member (N) Lukla, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal Assoc Member (N) Thamo, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Zhen-Hua Wang M 1936 China Leader (S) Chinese Mountaineering Association Member of standing committee of CMA Details Other expeditions
Rinchen Phuntsok (Rinchen Phinzo) M 1943 China Climbing Ldr (S) Lhunze Dzong, Tibet, China Vice leader, Tibetan mountaineering team Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tashi (Bianba Zhaxi) M 1965 China Climber (S) Lhasa, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Da Ciren (Da Cering) M 1950 China Climber (S) Shigatse, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Dorje (Danzhen Duoji) M 1962 China Climber (S) Namling Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Gyalbu (Jiabu) M 1959 China Climber (S) Lhasa, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Jiping Xiong M 1963 China Climber (S) Designing Institute of Guizhou Province Engineer, assistant Details Other expeditions
Jiu-Hui Yang M 1952 China Climber (S) - Chinese Mountaineering Association, staff member Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa (Laba, La Ba) M 1965 China Climber (S) Namling Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Ping Wang M 1962 China Climber (S) - China News Service, journalist Details Other expeditions
Phurbu (Pubu) M 1965 China Climber (S) Namling Dzong, Tibet, China Peasant Details Other expeditions
Chimi (Xiao Qimi) M 1964 China Climber (S) Namling Dzong, Tibet, China Peasant Details Other expeditions
Ren Na M 1966 China Climber (S) Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Shen Luo M 1963 China Climber (S) - Chinese Mountaineering Association, staff member Details Other expeditions
Wangyal (Wangjia) M 1957 China Climber (S) Lhatse Dzong, Tibet, China Staff member Details Other expeditions
Yong Wang M 1968 China Climber (S) - Xinjiang Mountaineering Association, staff member Details Other expeditions
Yong-Feng Wang M 1963 China Climber (S) Beijing, China Chinese Mountaineering Association, staff member Details Other expeditions
Michio Yuasa M 1937 Japan Team Leader (S) Nagoya, Japan Law professor, University Details Other expeditions
Gota Isono M 1954 Japan Climbing Ldr (S) Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Owner, travel agency Details Other expeditions
Shigeki Imoto M 1963 Japan Climber (S) Tokyo, Japan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Tomoji Kato M 1960 Japan Climber (S) Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Unemployed Details Other expeditions
Mitsugu Kitamura M 1958 Japan Climber (S) Osaka, Japan Staff, Chem Industry Company Details Other expeditions
Kazuhiro Kumasaki M 1962 Japan Climber (S) Tokyo, Japan Staff member, school Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Oda M 1951 Japan Climber (S) Osaka, Japan Alpine Guide Details Other expeditions
Motomu Ohmiya M 1949 Japan Climber (S) Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Departmental Store Details Other expeditions
Toshifumi Onuki M 1960 Japan Climber (S) Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Victor Video Equipment Designer Details Other expeditions
Shuko Sakai M 1948 Japan Climber (S) Nikawa-gun, Japan Staff member, company Details Other expeditions
Masanori Sato M 1963 Japan Climber (S) Setagaya-ku, Tokyo, Japan Student, university Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Soma M 1960 Japan Climber (S) Tokyo, Japan Staff member, company Details Other expeditions
Kiyohiko Suzuki M 1957 Japan Climber (S) Nagoya, Japan Salesman, mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Tsuyoshi Takano M 1959 Japan Climber (S) Tokyo, Japan Salesman, sporting clothing manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Yuji Watanabe M 1951 Japan Climber (S) Imaichi, Tochigi, Japan Teacher, high school Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yamamoto M 1945 Japan Climber (S) Otsu, Shiga, Japan Owner, mountain equipment shop & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hidetaka Mizukoshi M 1939 Japan Exp Doctor (S) Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Kazutaka Numeriya M 1962 Japan Exp Doctor (S) Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Takashi Suzuki M 1943 Japan Exp Doctor (S) Matsutou, Ishikawa, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Hiroyoshi Otsuka M - Japan Deputy Gen Ldr - - Details Other expeditions
Zhiyi Shong M 1952 China Climbing Ldr (N) Chinese Mountaineering Team Staff member Details Other expeditions
Janak Prakash Thapa M 1955 Nepal Army Leader (S) - Royal Nepal Army (Colonel) Details Other expeditions
Ang Karma Sherpa M 1958 Nepal Climber (S) Dhorphu, Salleri, Solukhumbu Student, Journalism Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal Climber (S) Thami, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal Climber (S) Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa M 1940 Nepal Climber (S) Namche Bazar, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sungdare Sherpa M 1955 Nepal Climber (S) Pangboche, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Narayan Kumar Shrestha M 1960 Nepal Climber (S) Kabre (now Dhulikel) Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Top Bahadur Khatri M 1959 Nepal Climber (S) Jubhung, Gulmo, Lumbini Zone Army serviceman Details Other expeditions
Padam Bahadur Tamang M 1954 Nepal Climber (S) Chuchure, Ramechap, Janakpur Army serviceman Details Other expeditions
Ang Phuri Sherpa M 1956 Nepal Assoc Member (S) Sallung (Beni), Solukhumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nima Rita Sherpa M - Nepal Assoc Member (S) Thami, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Assoc Member (S) Namche Bazar, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Assoc Member (S) Namche Bazar, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Surya Bahadur Tamang M - Nepal Support Member (S) Dandakharka, Nuwakot, Bagmati Zone RNA serviceman Details Other expeditions
Hira Bahadur (Kancha) Rana Magar M 1954 Nepal Support Member (S) Sindhuli District, Janakpur Zone Army serviceman Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tsering Sherpa M 1948 Nepal Support Member (S) Thamo, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nima Kancha Sherpa M 1952 Nepal Support Member (S) Jarok, Namche, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Panima (Pa Nima) Sherpa M 1951 Nepal Support Member (S) Solu Salong, Solukhumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Phu Dorje Sherpa M 1962 Nepal Support Member (S) Pangboche, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Son Temba Sherpa M 1940 Nepal Support Member (S) Tharo Kosi, Chaurikharka, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Shambu Tamang M 1955 Nepal Dep Climbing Ldr (S) Lisankhu, Sindhupalchowk Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

14 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER88101 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 63:271-272 (1989) -
EVER88101 JAC Ohtsuka, Hiroyoshi China, Japan, Nepal Friendship Expedition to Qomolangma 1988 - 83:A23-25 (1988) -
EVER88101 JAC Yamada, Norboru From Qomolangma to Sagarmatha - 83:A25-30 (1988) -
EVER88101 JAC Hashimoto, Kiyoshi Report from the North Side Party (Qomolangma) - 83:48-50 (1988) -
EVER88101 JAC Yuasa, Michio Report from the South Side Party (Sagarmatha) - 83:51-65 (1988) -
EVER88101 - Shinohara, Yoshichika Qomolangma-Sagarmatha 1988 Yomiuri Shimbun-Sha, Tokyo - C238
EVER88101 - Shinohara, Yoshichika Qomolangma-Sagarmatha 1988 Yomiuri Shimbun-Sha, Tokyo - jT105
EVER88101 IM Yamada, Norboru From Chomolungma to Everest - 23:28-34 (1989) -
EVER88101 JAC Ohtsuka, Hiroyoshi China, Japan, Nepal Friendship Expedition to Qomolangma 1988 - 83:36-47 (1988) -
EVER88101 JAC Yamada, Norboru From Qomolangma to Sagarmatha - 83:62-65 (1988) -
EVER88101 JAC - Reports from the Party Members - 83:66-72 (1988) -
EVER88101 IWA - - - :273 (1989) -
EVER88101 IWA - - - :40-41 (1989) -
EVER88101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198927103/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Traverse - - -